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Pilot Bushing Help


Crazyred

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Since I'm replacing the clutch on my '34 plymouth 201, I decided to replace the pilot bushing.  Ordered one from AB and the OD is too large to fit.  Tried installing and it will not go in the crank.  Bought a decent dial caliper to take measurements and this is what I found.

 

Crank hole - .923 - .925 (engine still in car, slight variation due to tight fit in bell housing with 6" caliper)

 

Original bushing

OD - .9375

ID - .750

Length - .8740

 

New Bushing

OD - .9435

Other dimensions are the same

 

AB said this is the only bushings they offer for this year and it covers many other years as well.  They also stated that it is bronze and not oilite.

 

I have been searching for a bushing to match what I took out with no luck.  Has anyone found a supplier with an assortment of bushings preferably oilite?  I am assuming that the one I pulled out is oilite but not 100%.

 

If needed, I will reuse the original one as it has minimal wear in one spot but prefer to change since I have it apart.

 

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I tried using a pilot bushing I got in the clutch kit (throw out bearing, clutch pressure plate, disc, and pilot bushing) from Mopar Pro but the pilot bushing wouldn't fit either in my 218.  OD was too large.  I ended up putting my old one back in.  Honestly, these pilot bushings see little wear so if it is within spec might want to consider reusing your old one.

Edited by Polsonator2
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@Bryanthanks for those search results. I found the oilite search earlier but it didn't have a match. I'll search through the bronze site to see if they have anything. I didn't even think to look at Amazon and couldn't find the size on ebay. 

 

@Polsonator2i think that may be the end result if i cant find something in the next few days. 

 

Is there a way to test the original bushing to see if it's an oilite?  I did the magnet test and it didn't stick to either one so they don't have any carbon in them. 

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@Sniper thanks for the link

 

@Bryan that bronze site has a lot of options but as you mentioned the shipping is high.  The part #'s from the bronze site led me to find them on another site.  Thanks for sending that over as I do not know why it never appeared on any of my searches.  ?‍♂️

 

I just ordered from mrosupply.com.  Had to order a minimum of $20 but had free shipping.  So I ordered 3 types in 2 different lengths.  The mro pricing was much cheaper, so if I find one that works I will have multiples left for others to use.  If none of these work, back in goes the original.

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according to my documents and information you never reamer an oillite bushing.  There is a special miller tool to install the bushing into the flywheel and then the same tool burnishes the bushing to the proper size. Here isa picture of the pilot bearing tool and burnishing tool taken from my Miller tool catalog..

 

I hae this tool and the c 41 to remove the bushing

Rich Hartung

 

 

image.png.240bb69bd5e4d1a6c26c6618942b9cd7.png

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Do you share it?

 

Maybe make some more good copies at that prices for forum members only.  You must contribute your share here!!  ?

 

DJ

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Received the oilite bushings and measured each one to find one with the best dimensions.  The bushing that worked was part number AA-921-4 which was slightly longer than what I pulled out.  It fit perfectly on the trans shaft (fitted before installing) and went in the crank hole as it should. 

 

Question, the new bushing is now flush with the end of the crank facing, the old bushing was slightly recessed.  Does this variation make a difference?

 

old bushing

IMG_0626.jpg.e287e2118b9920a61a6ae2b89f419b14.jpg

 

 

new bushing

20220131_170950.jpg.13b2038469c88b58b2dca0c28d8b747e.jpg

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I just don't know the answer, but on mine I was going to grind any new ones to the length of the old before installing.  I read on Oilite bushings you cannot sand or grind inside the bushing surface. Has to be a sharp cut by a reamer. Otherwise it clogs the pores. Reckon grinding the end off wouldn't hurt.  I tried the new bearing on the free end of my transmission shaft and found I couldn't push it on the last 1/8" where it stopped. It was binding.  

IMG_5986 bushing.JPG

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@Bryan fortunately I had enough length on the shaft and crank hole to accept a longer bushing.  I have extra oilite bushings and one of the lengths is .750 (3/4"). The OD is .94 and ID is .751  

 

Let me know if that would work for your shaft and you're welcome to it.  

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The old bushing was recessed....the picture of the tool Rich Hartung supplied shows the bushing recessed....the cross section view of the engine in the "Engine" section of my Plymouth shop manual shows it recessed....recommend you recess yours .

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On 1/27/2022 at 4:23 PM, desoto1939 said:

according to my documents and information you never reamer an oillite bushing.  There is a special miller tool to install the bushing into the flywheel and then the same tool burnishes the bushing to the proper size. Here isa picture of the pilot bearing tool and burnishing tool taken from my Miller tool catalog..

 

I hae this tool and the c 41 to remove the bushing

Rich Hartung

 

 

image.png.240bb69bd5e4d1a6c26c6618942b9cd7.png

I don't quite follow the original instructions.  When they say the bushing is slipped over the pilot, are they referring a a part of the tool as the "pilot", or the pilot shaft itself?  What I've read (mostly in the Machinery's Handbook) suggests that a special tool needs to be used to 'burnish' the ID of an oilite bushing.  I've never seen one, but it apparently has small rollers around the circumference.  It is inserted into the bushing (presumably after it is pressed in) and then it is tightened and rotated, to achieve the indicated ID.  The rollers don't cut away any material, they just move it around, which (as I understand) avoids smearing the surface and clogging the pores.  Then they sort of go back on what they said about never cutting a sintered bronze bushing, and say that the tool must be very sharp.  (I think in that case the bushing needs to be reoiled, by soaking in really hot oil.)  Apparently some resize a sintered bronze bushing by drawing or pressing a series of polished steel balls through the ID, each ball being a bit larger, until the desired measurement is reached.  But I've read some machinists' comments saying that this doesn't work well, that it doesn't produce a consistent ID.

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Enerto: refer to the tool that was posted in my comment and also in your comment. The new pilot bushing is installed on the end that has the grooves. You then hammer then entire tool with the bushing into the hole. This pshes the bushing into the cavity. You then use a box wrench and another wrench to hold the tool refer to number 3 and then go counter clockwise to burnish the bushing to the proper size. Refer to the picture below. The information and pictures show the toolin acutual.

C41 shes the tool to remove the bushing and c3181 on installing the tool in the correct manner.  I have both of these tools.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

image.png.191e7c14f78b13101b6b8f519f85335e.pngimage.png.582659334016e74b85638905a4dbaef1.png

 

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