Guaranteed good running 230 dodge flathead six cylinder engine

[Marty C]

After spending $1,300 on new valves and some machine work on the seats; I was told the pistons rings and cylinder bore us were in spec. Well I took it to another machine shop and found out the cylinders are all different sizes the pistons are all different sizes the ring gaps or all different….. bottom line a need a new good running engine. I was already lied to by the seller of the vehicle (ran when parked routine, and I was lied to and ripped off by a recommended machine shop. I need a honest good running engine to install in my 1952 Dodge  coronet. 
CAN ANYONE HELP?

thank you all in advance !

Marty C 

 

[Bbdakota]

Who's to say the second machine shop is right? These things don't have to be perfect, they will run way out of spec. I'm just thinking if the first machine shop thought it was good enough, it could be. The second machine shop could be making things sound worse so they can make some money off of the deal

Edited January 26, 2022 by Bbdakota

[allbizz49]

Just rebuild it. That way you know what you have. 

[Sniper]

Without any numbers no one can say if you have a problem.

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Why was it taken to another machine shop? Did you have an issue?

[Marty C]

My first machine shop said dealing with pistons wasn’t his forte!!

And the second machine shop is my friend who lives 200 miles from me . He was going to put it together for me. The first machine shop didn’t even reinstall the piston he took out to look

at !!

the shop was called superweld and they specialized in large scale Diesel engines. He was not an automotive engine machine shop I guess that should’ve been my first clue the only issue I have with him he shouldn’t have done all the work on this engine before taking out all the pistons and inspecting them for damage as it was when my friend’s machine shop pull the pistons they were all different kinds with different size rings and it was just a total mess!!

 

[Marty C]

Appreciate the responses but what’s done is done 

I’m still in the market for a good running 230 flathead 6

engine 

any out there??

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Don’t be frustrated, have been in engines with different sized pistons(not uncommon as you may think). Folks didn’t spend more than needed on repairs as money was hard to come by.

  

Edited January 27, 2022 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[Doug Cook]

Where are you located?  I’m actually looking at one now that was rebuilt.  If I don’t buy it I’ll give you their info.

[Marty C]

Wow!!

im in Long Island,New York but I’m willing to travel to pick it up

[Marty C]

59 minutes ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

Don’t be frustrated, have been in engines with the different sized pistons(not uncommon as you may think). Folks didn’t spend more than needed on repairs as money was hard to come by.

  

Yes the block is already 60 over and it’s stamped A so I think that means it started life 20 over!!

my machines that I trust recommends not spending any more money on this block 

[Sniper]

You know, they make pistons for up to .080 over for this engine.

 

Find a machine shop that knows these engines,  You already got way too  much money into the valves and seats and you will have to toss that if you go with another engine

Did your friend the machinist do any sonic checking of the wall thickness?  Because if he didn't I would take his advice for what you paid for it, nothing.

[keithb7]

For reference,
$6K ought to get you a nice rebuilt 230. 

I would not buy any engine to install for quick use without:

 

1: pulling rods and plasti-gauge

2. pulling mains and plasti-gauge

3. cranking over and measuring oil pressure and compression

4. Pulling head and checking top ridge

5. Look at cylinder walls & Mic bore. 

 

If I can’t do any of that, I’m offering a generous $200 for a core value. I don’t care if it was running when parked, pulled, whatever. 
 

That’s just me. I’m a little more enlightened after just completing my own 236 Mopar engine rebuild.  Maybe my attitude seems harsh? ?

 

[Bryan]

6 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

For reference,
$6K ought to get you a nice rebuilt 230. 

I would not buy any engine to install for quick use without:

 

1: pulling rods and plasti-gauge

2. pulling mains and plasti-gauge

3. cranking over and measuring oil pressure and compression

4. Pulling head and checking top ridge

5. Look at cylinder walls & Mic bore. 

 

If I can’t do any of that, I’m offering a generous $200 for a core value. I don’t care if it was running when parked, pulled, whatever. 
 

That’s just me. I’m a little more enlightened after just completing my own 236 Mopar engine rebuild.  Maybe my attitude seems harsh? ?

 

After getting into the one my father had bought and finding 2 cut off studs of the 8 crank to Fluid Drive studs...no..

[Marty C]

3 hours ago, Sniper said:

You know, they make pistons for up to .080 over for this engine.

 

Find a machine shop that knows these engines,  You already got way too  much money into the valves and seats and you will have to toss that if you go with another engine

Did your friend the machinist do any sonic checking of the wall thickness?  Because if he didn't I would take his advice for what you paid for it, nothing.

That makes a lot of sense 

I will ask him to look into these oversized pistons!

appreciate the advice 

[RobertKB]

Block can also be sleeved. 

[Marty C]

2 hours ago, Bryan said:

After getting into the one my father had bought and finding 2 cut off studs of the 8 crank to Fluid Drive studs...no..

You make sense toO. I’m weighing all my options and Sifting through everyone’s well appreciated advice!

[Andydodge]

After being screwed by a so called engine rebuilder many years ago when I had the original engine in my 1940 Dodge supposedly rebuilt which lasted less than 1000 miles before I discovered that the crank journals were scored(sump was full of swarf which hadn't been cleaned out) I vowed never to pay these jerks again to "rebuild" an engine for me, so when I decided to get the 318 Poly I'd subsequently installed in the 1940 Dodge rebuilt I disassembled the engine myself and learnt how to measure things........then took the block, crank etc to a different and more reliable machine shop......had them do the work including balancing then I picked up and assembled the lot and reinstalled the engine.........been going strong since 1975.......and no, I was not a mechanic,just a humble government clerk who just decided that I couldn't do a worse job than these "butchers" so decided to teach myself, got a workshop manual, proper tools and had a go........yeh, I was young, bright eyed and bushy tailed but these old engines are not rocket science, by all means get a proper machine shop to do the work but assemble it yourself...........its very satisfying and rewarding...........Andyd     

[allbizz49]

Last one I rebuilt was about 2500 all in with machine work. This was too long ago. That was new 30 over pistons, valves, gaskets, machine work, everything new. I built it but it really isn't that complicated. 

[Bryan]

2 hours ago, Marty C said:

You make sense toO. I’m weighing all my options and Sifting through everyone’s well appreciated advice!

(1) Marketplace - 35 Dodge Brothers Flathead 6 Motor and Transmission | Facebook in NY.  Either industrial or truck engine.  It's a tough call. Presently trying to get my motor done and haven't overhauled on since I was 25. 64 now.

[Marty C]

15 hours ago, Andydodge said:

After being screwed by a so called engine rebuilder many years ago when I had the original engine in my 1940 Dodge supposedly rebuilt which lasted less than 1000 miles before I discovered that the crank journals were scored(sump was full of swarf which hadn't been cleaned out) I vowed never to pay these jerks again to "rebuild" an engine for me, so when I decided to get the 318 Poly I'd subsequently installed in the 1940 Dodge rebuilt I disassembled the engine myself and learnt how to measure things........then took the block, crank etc to a different and more reliable machine shop......had them do the work including balancing then I picked up and assembled the lot and reinstalled the engine.........been going strong since 1975.......and no, I was not a mechanic,just a humble government clerk who just decided that I couldn't do a worse job than these "butchers" so decided to teach myself, got a workshop manual, proper tools and had a go........yeh, I was young, bright eyed and bushy tailed but these old engines are not rocket science, by all means get a proper machine shop to do the work but assemble it yourself...........its very satisfying and rewarding...........Andyd     

That was my plan! I disassembled almost all of it had it taken out by a local garage by me and I brought it to the machine shop to find out why it had no compression and they just focused on the valves and pulled out one piston and supposedly measured it and said everything looks good and that was the end that they never looked at the other pistons or did any other measurements and they did all the valve work and when I got the engine back the One piston they took out they didn’t even put back I should’ve brought it right back then and there but I decided to take it to my buddy 200 miles away and have them go over it before I decided to rebuild it and that’s when he found out all the Pistons were crap the bore was 60 over already and in bad shape So bottom line the engine is not even worth fixing and now I’m at the money I paid for a valve job on an engine that’s not worth fixing

[keithb7]

It’s unfortunate to hear how you were treated by a professional shop. Seems very odd that they’d pull 1 piston out. Tell you its good and proceed with a valve grind. Then gave the engine back to you without reinstalling the piston? 
 

Where did you get this engine? Bought it as a good used runner? There is much that you can do with your engine to prevent being taken advantage of. If you have the will and the means. Not everyone can do that. I get it. 

Edited January 28, 2022 by keithb7

[Marty C]

That’s exactly what this place did!!

[Bryan]

Keep the parts, manifold, heads etc since they have been worked on.  (Hard to read). Maybe find a good shop to resleeve the block if they already magnafluxed the block and it has no cracks.  Assuming all the core plugs were removed and replaced during cleaning?  I know cylinder sleeves exist for it, just a matter of cost.  You'd have to compare the cost of buying another block and boring/honing for pistons vs resleeving. Sorry this happened. What I'm struggling with on how far to let a shop do my engine.

[FarmerJon]

How did they clean and Magnaflux the block if they didn't pull out the pistons?

Most hot tank solutions are not friendly to bearing material and aluminum. 

 

I got burned by a machine shop the first heads I took for a valve job. Found a guy who I trust and is reasonable, and have stuck with him ever since. It is too much of a gamble to try someone new!

Edited January 28, 2022 by FarmerJon