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'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine


E37Bruco
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15 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

Lol, I sure wish you would buy this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/154730253133?epid=7029126274&hash=item2406a44b4d:g:3wUAAOSwkP9hqQjj

it keeps popping up in my cart but, I can’t bring myself to pay the price and my offers are rejected as soon as I submit it.

 

will be interested, if you come up with something 

 

question is on that one is if the rubber is still good or not...

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1 hour ago, ggdad1951 said:

 

question is on that one is if the rubber is still good or not...

Exactly, that’s why I made offers….. I’d take a chance for two thirds less in price 😁

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You're gonna need a huge actuator for the rear axle shifter if that 2 speed  diaphragm ever fails!

Good going on your speedo adapter repair👍

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I have yet to make it to the rear axle. That's another fear of mine. But I'd probably send that to white post if it needs rebuilt. I also have a vacuum actuator that holds the clutch in for shifting the pump transfer 

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I'm just joking on the rear axle diaphragm...

I've never seen one that didn't work because of a torn diaphram..

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So my assistant drained all the fluids and refilled the engine and pump transfer case. 

 

Now with the transmission.... He pulled the drain plug and nothing came out. Said he ran his finger around the inside and it was like grease. 

 

Im going to pop the fill plug and check everything myself. Is it possible it solidified? Or does this sound like a leak? Current plan is to fill it to the fill plug, drive it till it's warm, drain, and refill. 

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If it has it remove the PTO six bolt cover plate and have a look.

I have never seen all the oil in a transmission turn to grease.

Odd thing to happen for sure.

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The clutch inspection cover is covered in a black tar looking Grease. But the clutch assembly looks clean. Input shaft seal seems too high though to me where if it failed while sitting it wouldn't drain out. Idk where it would have gone haha

Edited by E37Bruco
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If your fire truck has the factory installed New Process 88450 5 speed yransmission there is no input shaft seal used...just a shielded front bearing and a drain back hole in the bearing retainer.

The clutch cover pan having the thick tar grease is some what typical from what I have experienced....especially in eastern Washington where I have hunted these big trucks down in years past.

As you know fire trucks are custom built and use PTO's etc and yours has a pump yransfer case.

Most all this power train equipment of the day dripped fluids a bit. In regular use fluid levels are checked. When not in use levels are never checked...good you are checking!

Sitting for years with out use over dirt or asphalt the leaks would not be noticed too much. Over concrete yes.

Yep .maybe fill the trans up with cheap oil to loosen what ever is in it..run it a bit on heavy jack stands.

Drain and refill with proper fluid.

Or fill it with proper fluid and run it..your choice.

Exposed drive train gear teeth above the oil level when sitting for extended long periods of time can get rusty and pitted.

Typically in cooler climates with wide temp swings. I usually try to look for this through a fill plug hole or a cover plate. On the H300 2 speed rear end there is a small four bolt plate  on top you can remove and look at the gear set.

All this so no surprises🙂

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On 5/11/2022 at 4:57 AM, E37Bruco said:

……….Current plan is to fill it to the fill plug, drive it till it's warm, drain, and refill. 


wait, is it running? 

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19 minutes ago, Brent B3B said:


wait, is it running? 

Yeah....I'm wondering that too....you hiding important milestones with the resurrection of the fire truck?😁 

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No it has not been fired up yet 😅. I've completed engine oil and filter, the ignition side just needs the breaker gap set (I had forgotten my feeler gauges) and everything on the fuel side is ready minus currently not having a tank. But I plan to start it with a fuel can if I must. 

 

Fire pumps are different than any conventional pto or transfer case. There is a drive shaft from the transmission to the pump transfer case. Then another shaft to the rear axle. So the pump and transmission are roughly 2 feet apart, not shared. 

 

I have a pto cover gasket coming, I'm going to pop a plate and the fill plug to thoroughly look at the transmission gears next week. 

 

All the wiring is out of the truck. Ive begun prepping the dash for paint. Pulled the passenger front tire off so someone can start identifying the bolt pattern and a modern steel rim replacement. Monday I hope to pull the hub&brake drum to assess the wheel cylinders. Booster is still at white post. 

 

 

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No new photos taken. But I was sent this from a fire truck photographer. This was in the 70s or 80s when the paint was still weekly waxed and stainless polished. The only colored photo of the original paint, lettering, and stripes.

s-l1600 (2).jpg

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2 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

No new photos taken. But I was sent this from a fire truck photographer. This was in the 70s or 80s when the paint was still weekly waxed and stainless polished. The only colored photo of the original paint, lettering, and stripes.

s-l1600 (2).jpg

Oh that body style is so cool...Brent and Mark want the chrome grille...don't let them around it unless hand cuffed!

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Why are you going to replace those wheels....especially if not rusty?

A very common bolt pattern wheel up through at least the 80's...easy to deal with actually...

Some big bucks to replace with tubeless rims.

You are making good progress!

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On 5/13/2022 at 1:48 PM, E37Bruco said:

I need atleast tires and tubes for the current rims. The membership is suggesting to switch to new rims and tubeless tires for ease going forward

No idea who will install the tires ... Will you take them to a shop? I would suggest this myself.

Main reason is to have a professional inspect them for rust or bent and damaged rings that would prevent them from being safe to use.

Some shops offer a wheel reconditioning service, sandblast & paint is all it is ....

 

So I'm saying, take them in and dismount the tires, have them inspected "will they mount new tires on them?"

Then you can feel comfortable spending some time cleaning them up & painting as needed, then have the new tires installed.

 

If for some reason they fail safety inspection, chances are it would only be 1 or 2 wheels not all of them.

Now would be a good time to decide if you want to switch to tubeless or just pick up a used replacement.

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Got the front right hub torn apart too. 

 

Wagner wheel cylinder. I think it's stamped 3532. It's a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 step bore with 7/16-20 inlet. I can't find anything remotely close to that online. I'll swing into Napa tomorrow. 

 

Also the return spring needs replaced 🤦🏻‍♂️

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17 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

Got the front right hub torn apart too. 

 

Wagner wheel cylinder. I think it's stamped 3532. It's a 1-3/8 to 1-1/2 step bore with 7/16-20 inlet. I can't find anything remotely close to that online. I'll swing into Napa tomorrow. 

 

Also the return spring needs replaced 🤦🏻‍♂️

If you end up finding a replacement, PLEASE don’t throw away the old ones!

I would have the oem  re sleeved any day 😊

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