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'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine


E37Bruco

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Havent had much time to work on her. Windshield is in and most of the wiring. 

 

I was just informed my NAPA hookup and changing jobs. Im going to try and get the truck moved to a different garage bay this week so i can pull the rear axle shafts and look at the brakes. But does anyone know what the rear wheel cylinders are in newer part numbers???

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Newest # I can find in NAPA " United is # 1012. A # from a 1998 NAPA book.

That's for a 1-3/4" rear cylinder.

Doesn't come up anywhere though.

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Yes...that's what is in my book.

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Ugh.....I have a 2" crack now in each windshield pane ??‍♂️??‍♂️??‍♂️

 

Finished the new wiring. Will be moving the truck into a different garage bay in order to pull the rear axle shafts this week. The end of the mechanical Todo list is near atleast. 

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8 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

Ugh.....I have a 2" crack now in each windshield pane ??‍♂️??‍♂️??‍♂️

 

Finished the new wiring. Will be moving the truck into a different garage bay in order to pull the rear axle shafts this week. The end of the mechanical Todo list is near atleast. 

Where did you crack?  New glass?  Certain areas you have to be careful with when putting new glasss in and putting the inner bezel on (I know from experience).

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On 8/9/2022 at 5:53 AM, ggdad1951 said:

Where did you crack?  New glass?  Certain areas you have to be careful with when putting new glasss in and putting the inner bezel on (I know from experience).

original glass. Driver side lower left corner. Passenger side upper left corner. 

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10 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

original glass. Driver side lower left corner. Passenger side upper left corner. 

The upper one, if it's near the seam where the A pillar hits the roof, that's where mine did its thing...tightened the bezel too much.

 

Good news it's flat glass, can be sourced locally and won't break the bank.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got enough things together to fire her up and pull her outside to run for a few minutes. Fired right up like a champ and idles so smoothly. Identify the handful of small leaks to address. Otherwise she's one more step closer to roadworthy. September is pretty busy for me but I've got a few people handling putting new tires on it while I'm gone

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/3/2022 at 9:49 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

I use permatex #1 hardening sealant on difficult to seal automotive NPT fittings.

The 413's generally use high flow needle and seat fittings requiring 1/4" pipe outlets on the glass bowl fuel filters as you know.

If you cannot find these 1/8 X 1/4 filters...only finding or have the typical 1/8 X 1/8 you can drill out and tap to 1/4" the smaller pipe thread filter.

 

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So the filter top is still leaking from that crack. I have a good 1/8x1/8 top here. Do I need to drill and tap or will a 1/4 female to 1/8 male adapter be ok? I wouldn't think since it's coming in 1/8 anyways.

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Although it's kinda not right.... for the retired senior fire truck use the adapter will not be restrictive at low speed use IMO.?

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The drum will come off without pulling the axle shaft and hub.

Spray some lube around the hub...make sure all the large slotted screws are removed.

Sometimes just using two large wide screw drivers between drum and backing plate carefully attempt to wedge the drum off the hub.

Also I use a 1" by10" long brass drift to break the drum loose from the hubs on these larger brake trucks.

Use a 2-3 lb hammer and hit the drum mounting suface between the lug studs several times.

This drift hammer shocking usually will cause the drum to bounce free of the hub.

 

 

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Ok, that all makes sense. Next work day there I'll spray them down and slowly start hitting them till they separate. 

 

Read the shop manual section on the hubs. I originally assumed they would be similar to my old Chevy 14 bolt full floater. Remove the axle shafts I get. But then there's an outer oil seal retainer assembly before the lock nuts. Slinger, etc etc lol am I over thinking this hub tear down? And what special tools do I need? I have new seals for the backside of the hub but I wasnt aware of any internal parts I may need to replace. 

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I don't recall but I think that rear axle is a Timken 2 sd Q300...#'s stamped on the rear axle housing just rt or left of the rear welded cover.

You will need to be sure as to exactly which rear end it is for aquiring the proper seals....have ready the shoe width (probably 5" or 6" width) and get the #'s off the inner and outer seals to be sure you get the correct ones.

Check bearings too of course.

A truck parts house could be of better help than most parts stores but do what works.

To remove the hubs the 12 axle nuts first come off. Then using a big heavy hammer smack the end of the axle shaft to pop it part way loose.

Have a drain pan directly under the hub to catch the small amout of oil to possibly leak out.

Pull the 12 tapered wedge dowels off the studs. Pull out the axle shaft.

Remove the outer seal and plate.

Using the proper sized LARGE socket remove the outer lock nut.

Now remove the middle pinned locking plate.

Lastly remove the inner adjustment large nut.

Remove the hub careful not to drop the outer bearing.

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Drums came off fairly easily. Thank you for the advice.

 

They measure 16.5" across the inside of the drum. The brake pads are 4" wide.

 

The Napa wheel cylinders we found look like an exact match. Still need to verify hose threads.

 

On the right side one of the shoes was lose, it fell out when I pulled the drum. It appears the clip that holds it to the bracket is broken. Looking at the parts manual tho, they don't show. I'd feel more comfortable replacing all 4 across the rear so the shoes are secure.

 

Also missing a wheel cylinder cover # 1502059.

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Oooh....those are 1953 and later clips...might be tough to find...

Earlier shoe retainers were coil springs...

I'll look through my parts...

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No luck...3-1/2" cast shoes....wrong part#'s on the W/cyl cover and shoe retainers...sorry cannot be of help.

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So...is this not a timken L300 axle? The wheel cylinders are stamped 682. 

 

Should I be looking at international trucks from this time frame for compatible parts... 

 

Would older spring and clips work? 

 

Where do I go from here haha

Edited by E37Bruco
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Your axle for your T series should be a L series....I have one too..only problem is it's an air brake axle out of a 55 3 ton.

Bigger and different brakes.

The brakes you have are called Timkin DPH anchor pin brakes.

I don't know if you can swap the retainer shoe springs and washers.

Do you have any truck brake and clutch shops around your area you could check with?

"Justoldtrucks.com" is a pretty big site you might join up and get some help there.

I would uess possibly International, Brockway, Diamond T, Reo trucks might use these same axle and brake parts....

old timers there seeing a picture of your brakes might be able to help you.

 

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Okay I got feelers out to people. 

 

I have a good clip out awhile as reference. 

 

Got the axle shaft out. Pulled the outer seal plate....take that to a commercial truck shop??? 

 

Holy crap that spindle nut is large! Haha is that a 4" socket needed???

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