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'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine


E37Bruco

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13 hours ago, E37Bruco said:

Happy Easter y'all. 

 

I emailed Brillman my distributor info. In the meantime I found an old autolite tine up pdf that listed AL869 as the condenser for all 6cyc trucks. Thoughts on Napa points and condensers? 

Screenshot_20220417-085035_Chrome.jpg

Had a Napa condenser bad out of the box.  Replaced it and carry a spare now.  I have NOS Autolite ones, but they seem to have deteriorated.  I cannot find good condensers at all.  I have had them fail from Napa, oreilly, and AutoZone.

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Horn ring ground wire...looks replaced... normally fine strand stainless black wire.

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26 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Horn ring ground wire...looks replaced... normally fine strand stainless black wire.

 

The horn button wire goes all the way through the steering column and out the bottom ??? lol 

 

How hards that to swap out?

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I attached a string to mine and pulled it out

55086662-EF38-4CA0-B998-B629A782FA98.jpeg.5f182f684fc8ec71ba1a3ffd21673100.jpeg

leave the string in, do the repair, reattach, pull back (gently) ?

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As Brent says pull it through with another thin wire.

I have learned to just angle the bullet connector 10 degree's off center... push the perfectly straightened wire down till I feel it hit the lower inner tube.

Then lightly twist the wire while pushing down...it will go on down and out the bottom of the steering gear.

Takes some.practice but is fast and easy once you learn it for the cars and trucks.

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As I rewire this truck, any benefits to using a relay for the headlights instead of all the power thru the switch? I already plan to install some for the emergency lights. That's just habit for me with 12v, I'd assume is just as smart for 6. I will be increasing the wire gauges also.

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On 4/14/2022 at 9:22 PM, E37Bruco said:

It's been a shitty day....lost a plunger to one of the carbs. It's in the flared fitting that threads into the bowl against the float stop. Carbs are Carter BB E9G1, which seem to be a completely different fitting and needle setup than the 2 in the carb kits. 

 

Currently searching the web for something similar ?

20220414_202140.jpg

Look out.Not similar.Regards.

IMG_20220421_082846285.jpg

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On 1/13/2022 at 8:15 PM, Dodgeb4ya said:

That is a Carter # MS859SA...

Generally the high flow E9G1 carbs are used on the 413 engine.

Shifting the trans and rear axle...

Shift 1 lo, 1 high...2lo, 2 high.

Normally 1st gear is not used..granny gear.

You can shift 2,3,4, and 5 the shift into rear axle high under light loads.

There are pics of the 2 spd axle shifting instruction plate factory screwed to the glove box door some where on this forum.

 

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2 Speed instruction Plate.jpg

Do you or anyone else have a clean straight on photo of the 2-Speed instructions? I'd like to print a decal version to cover my faded one up. 

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I do not have a nice enough one to photograph.

I'll look around..

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5 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I do not have a nice enough one to photograph.

I'll look around..

Lol, I’ve got your back Rob! 
BB6C153E-B920-4FD2-94B4-8BF4EE4DD225.jpeg.24c715baeb728b783606e3d6db5888c1.jpeg7B0CB44F-310E-40EA-899B-059871865F40.jpeg.8c9ef9c230ab6a9ac9688957fc716c75.jpeg

 

OR 

gallery_455_7_1359568717_566.jpg.f0207796c1eb61344045d74ff98f3514.jpg

i think i stole this from Rob years ago ?

Edited by Brent B3B
HAVING WAY TOO MUCH FUN
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Just send me five bucks and we will call it good on the theft issue Brent?

Now we really need to find a like new shifting instruction plate for making a reproduction decal for the fire truck.

I looked for a 1/2 hour....nada

 

 

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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17 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Just send me five bucks and we will call it good on the theft issue Brent?

Now we really need to find a like new shifting instruction plate for making a reproduction decal for the fire truck.

I looked for a 1/2 hour....nada

 

 

I'm actually going to take the photo from the manual you posted earlier and turn that into a vinyl decal to stick on the dash.

 

 

Also, the paint used on these trucks in the 50s...oil or lacquer? Need to know if I have to take this down to bare metal to avoid a reaction with newer paints. I plan to paint the dash while everything's out of it.

 

Also oil, filter, ignition coil came today. Unfortunately I'm not free till later next week to start the motor.

 

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I did look quite a while to find a great picture of that shifting plate...couldn't.

The 60's Dodge trucks did use a decal instead of that plate...a real close copy of it too.

As for original paint....I believe it was alkyd enamel. 

Some lacquer was us3d on cars back then...not too sure on trucks.

Rub the paint with lacquer thinner...if lacquer paint the paint will come off on the rag...if enamel very little will rub off.

As for your fire engine paint...probably a custom paint job when built and possible re paint later on.

As for paint reaction issues.. sant it..use sealer and continue.

But I am not the one to ask or go into quagmire of how to properly prep and  paint a vehicle.?

 

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Oh I have the proper paint I just wanted to make sure the original was not lacquer based that would cause a reaction.

 

The line for the temperature gauge is broken. Is there an easy six volt sending unit and gauge  I can swap to temporarily

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More of the older firemen are back from snow-birding in Florida. The shift pattern was 2-5 low, then 4 hi, 5 hi ???

 

Also the speedometer didn't work when the rear was in high. I know a vacuum diaphragm moves a lever on the back of the speedo. Any thoughts on what to look into?

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I have seen the steel supply line to the speedo adapter rub thru on the firewall small and end up with a vacuum supply leak preventing the speedo adapter to shift to high.

That speedo adapter once the line is disconnected and cable pulled off will come right out to bench check it over.

The adapter needs to be checked out that you can manually shift it...move the little flag lever to shift it from lo to high.

Also check that again by sucking on the brass line connection fitting... duplicating engine vacuum being applied.

If it does not move the lever

Also if the lever doesn't move when sucking on the fitting the small rubber diaphragm is probably stiff or torn.

Speedo cable needs to be checked out that it is not damaged and properly lubed.

Same with the speedo head. You will see that small 1" stem sticking out of the bottom of the speedo,,,it unscrews and has a felt wick in it....put some light weight oil in it to lube the speedo shaft and bushing.

You can use you fingers to make sure the speedo input shaft spins easily using your fingers.

As Brent mentioned usually the problems with the speedo not up-shifting are with adapter...I added a few more common possibilities.

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get stuff down the shaft...turn the shaft while spinning it by finger or SLOWLY with a drill letting it work it's way down.

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Lol, I sure wish you would buy this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/154730253133?epid=7029126274&hash=item2406a44b4d:g:3wUAAOSwkP9hqQjj

it keeps popping up in my cart but, I can’t bring myself to pay the price and my offers are rejected as soon as I submit it.

 

will be interested, if you come up with something 

Edited by Brent B3B
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12 minutes ago, Brent B3B said:

Lol, I sure wish you would buy this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/154730253133?epid=7029126274&hash=item2406a44b4d:g:3wUAAOSwkP9hqQjj

it keeps popping up in my cart but, I can’t bring myself to pay the price and my offers are rejected as soon as I submit it.

 

will be interested, if you come up with something 

Hmmm 

 

Part of me though says modify a standard vacuum actuator to fit. GM used them for years in their HVAC systems.

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