'53 B-4TA-190 Fire Engine

[E37Bruco]

2 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

3rd time on the radiator? Hope not!

No I haven't pulled it yet since I noticed the leak. Been trying to finish wiring and haven't had help to pull the hood and radiator 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Another big radiator to pull out...very involved job..

 

Edited March 24, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

Lol what's the easiest order to do all this? I had a PAIN reassembling. 

 

Water pump and fan, then shroud, then radiator? I think I tried installing the radiator with the pump in but no fan on. I don't remember, it just sucked haha

[Dodgeb4ya]

The water pump stays on the engine with the fan and 1" spacer removed.

The radiator and shroud loosely together are carefully lowered down into place just clearing the water pump hub.

At that point I installed two 1" 3/8" X 24 studs/ nuts temporarily in the middle radiator mount holes to support the radiator from dropping down. 

Lean/ move the loose shroud towards the engine at the top so you can install the fan, spacer and the four long bolts already installed thru fan and spacer.

Lower the assembled fan down to the water pump and start the bolts into the water pump hub. Tighten the fan.

Finish installing the shroud and radiator to the core support.

Install the hoses and hood.

It's tedious .....just be glad you don't have air brakes...then the air compressor has to be removed just to give room to move the shroud back for the fan installation!

 

[E37Bruco]

Ok I'll try that. For some reason I feel like the fans too close to the radiator to be able to remove the fan bolts

[Dodgeb4ya]

You cannot remove the fan bolts when pulling the fan and aluminum spacer off.

Leave the loosened bolts in the fan and spacer....then remove the fan and spacer with the four bolts as a unit carefully from out of the loose shroud.

The lift out the rad and shroud.

[E37Bruco]

I still need to pull the radiator and water pump but I finally got everything together and we took it for a test drive. She then sat in the parking lot idling for 20 minutes. Run smooth, and no fluids leaking. Brakes work great. And I am really going to need to learn how to shift the sucker better lol 

 

 

 

[E37Bruco]

https://fb.watch/jZt50TQji3/?mibextid=Nif5oz

[Dodgeb4ya]

That had to be exciting to get her back on the road.....On the job...

Had to be a bit intimidating driving too I'm sure...a giant and oh so long  old Dodge fire truck with no syncro's!

I didn't see if the rear axle was being shifted ..

The shifting will be of no concern once you learn to "float" the gears or double clutch to make shifting smooth and quiet which is normal once learned.

Lotsa U-Tube vids on that.

Love all the lights too...

The only B series heavy series Dodge Fire truck I've actually seen with that super cool body that's running and driving.

Congrat's you did good!

Let's see more of it when you can.

 

 

Edited April 18, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

Unfortunately that wasn't me driving. I am personally intimidated by her. That was our current chief, who also has never driven that rig. 

 

My father will be taking me out next time I'm free since he's probably the youngest member that drove that girl easily. I didn't think you could float nom-syncro gears 

 

We never made it into 5th gear. Was a very short lap around the block. I confirmed that the rear shift knob was moving the speedo adapter. I can't tell in a parking lot tho if the rear axle is shifting. 

Edited April 18, 2023 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

You should be able to feel the rear axle shift with in 20' in a parking lot.

Statr out in low low 1st accelerate, pull button up, let off gas for a second, you should feel a good clunk from the rear axle...you are then in 1st high.

Keep rolling in 1st high ,push button down, another clunk..you will be back in 1st gear low.

This is just a way to test the rear axle shifting in tight space.

Try it you should instantly feel the rear axle shift.

Generally you would always take off in 2nd the start using the rear axle in each gear as needed for the load or power etc.

[E37Bruco]

The pilot House knowledge database website is gone. Is there a way to decipher the serial number and figure out the manufacturing date? I know our purchase date.

[JBNeal]

The mfg date would be located on the build card, which a copy would need to be requested from the Chrysler Historical Society.  I have several build cards waiting to be deciphered by Kevin Clause, but I didn't get them to him until right before covid hit, and since then he has been über busy.  The mfg date should be easy to find on the build card tho...

 

additional information - build cards 

[E37Bruco]

Just about all back together. Second siren committed suicide off the work bench today so I'm a bit in mood now.

 

At this point everything is tightened up and ready for the road. Should start really driving it later next week ?

 

Lol 66 years apart in my mopars

[Dodgeb4ya]

It looks great! Good job getting it back on the road.

Quite a feat on such a big rig.

Get out there and drive it and please post more pictures of these ventures with it too.

Edited May 6, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

So finally got out today to do a few laps thru the area haha Finding 3rd sucks haha so much grinding. Also I suck at downshifting haha. No leaks, ran great, good brakes, good gauge readings. 

 

So I noticed the Hi-Lo switch kept popping itself into High!?! Any thoughts? 

 

Also the fuel bowls when I parked were half empty. Varied the throttle a few times and the bowls changed levels but never filled fully back up. It's idling beautifully and I don't hear any missing. At first it was just the front bowl till I reved it and the rear did the same. 

 

 

Edit: after an hour if sitting the bowls are full again....whaaaaat???

Edited June 13, 2023 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

Do you have any old timers who drove truck who could show you floating the gears or double clutch shifting?

There are a bunch of video's and info online on these non syncro truck  transmissions and how to shift them.

It would be nice if you could get someone to drive it  with you  and demonstrate shifting up and down.

As for the fuel bowls....my same engine dual carbs  trucks all act the same way.

I Just rebuilt the fuel pump on Big Red just to have a modern fuel pump diaphram.

It didn't change the 4-3/4 lb. fuel pump pressure, the vacuum or flow from the old pump. The fuel bowls still might be half full or full at times running or not. 

It doesn't affect engine performance at all on any of them.

I wouldn't worry about it as long as it runs good.

[Dodgeb4ya]

As for the two speed rear axle unwanted shifting into high...

It should haveba red pull up/push down knob on the shifter....cable operated.

Later Dodge in 56 went to 12 volt electric moter shifyer two speeds.

On your red button /knob type that knob cannot move upward with out you pulling it up and only then will make the rear axle upshift.

For the rear axle to upshift vacuum needs to be sent to that round diaphran on the rear axle...only then will the axle upshift.

With no vacuum to the rear axle it will always stay in low range.

A large strong spring holds the rear end in low range until vacuum is applied to the rubber diaphram...then the axle shifts to high range.

Have never heard of a B-series vacuum style axle having  uncontrolled upshifting.

[E37Bruco]

Ya my father was with me yelling at me the whole time haha I'll have him drive it so I can watch. 

 

I'm not sure if the hi/lo knob has minimal resistance but on 4 occasions I noticed the knob had made its way into the up position and id have to push it back down. 

[Dodgeb4ya]

That's funny about your dad trying to make sure you better keep the shifting process  quiet.

Yes....have him show you how good he is!?

Normally the shift cable button has a bit of resistance to move it up and down...not a lot/not too little.

Total normal travel of the button up/down is about a inch+/-....

Did you lube it up a lot?

Is it routed/looped gently, not against the header pipes?

 

Edited June 14, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya
Spell check

[E37Bruco]

Ya it's roughly an inch in and out. I lubed the cables. It's ran normally and doesn't have much resistance to maneuver. I would have thought the valve on the firewall would have enough resistance in itself to stay open (low). Could vacuum potentially be pulling the valve closed? I am probably way over revving it trying to downshift haha

[Dodgeb4ya]

I can't imagine having vacuum pulling the button up...definitely not normal.

The button kinda slightly snaps/clicks  into position normally.

I wonder if the vacuum  plumbing or valve has been added to or modified  in anyway...

Edited June 15, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya

[E37Bruco]

So I checked the knob, it slides up and down fairly easy, I don't feel a click or anything that would hold it in position. It is actually shifting the rear tho and moving the speedo adapter. 

[E37Bruco]

Hmmm I'm fighting a slow leak on rear right wheel cylinder. I pulled the hose and it looks good. I'm gonna pull the connection piece off the wheel cylinder next, (1192064). If it's not just dirt in there, are those still around for a replacement? 

 

The brass piece that connects the hose to the cylinder, 5-66-1

Edited June 18, 2023 by E37Bruco

[Dodgeb4ya]

That is a special fitting...it's going to be tough to find..looks like it just spaces out the brake line from the wheel cylinder.

Maybe  th bolt isn't tight enough.

possibly the copper O- rings are just  too hard and not sealing. Annesling them softens them up.

Or worst case the bolt was too tight and damaged, cracked crushed or split the fitting.

Part #1192064 .....3-4 ton trucks only.