E37Bruco Posted January 11, 2023 Author Report Posted January 11, 2023 7 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: I just use the stock factory ground cable to the transmission case on mine... Something must be draining your battery to kill it in four months. I use a group four on my truck... It sits all winter and still cranks in the late spring. I had the battery's positive disconnected ever since I moved it from one bay to another....August 30th. So yesterday was the first time hooking back up the positive ground lug. It read 5.6 volts and after 2 hours at 6.04 I had headlights. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 11, 2023 Report Posted January 11, 2023 (edited) 54 minutes ago, E37Bruco said: I had the battery's positive disconnected ever since I moved it from one bay to another....August 30th. So yesterday was the first time hooking back up the positive ground lug. It read 5.6 volts and after 2 hours at 6.04 I had headlights. So your battery self discharged with the ground cable disconnected? If so not good...here is a battery state of charge chart.. Edited January 11, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 11, 2023 Author Report Posted January 11, 2023 I'll have to check it out next week. I'm pretty certain it has not been on a charger since summer. It fired up to run for maybe 10-15 minutes when I changed it's garage bay. But it's been for the most part disconnected from ground for months. I still haven't verified the generator and voltage regulator are working properly either Quote
wallytoo Posted January 13, 2023 Report Posted January 13, 2023 (edited) yeah, what bob says - a 6-volt at 5.6 volts is a dead battery, and depending on how long it was at that level, it might be unreliable going forward. Edited January 13, 2023 by wallytoo Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 13, 2023 Report Posted January 13, 2023 I run a group 4 in my big truck....very powerful and they usually last around 8 years. Group 2's IMO are not a good enough or reliable enough for the big moly block engines. The 4's just barely fit but will with the tray pan removed and a custom made hold down. Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Posted January 19, 2023 (edited) 5.31 Volts on a group 4 battery we bought in April 2022. 975 CCA and 1170 CA. Wtf ? Edited January 20, 2023 by E37Bruco Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 19, 2023 Author Report Posted January 19, 2023 1 hour on a 10amp charger and 6.34 volts....and the charge is hot haha Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 20, 2023 Report Posted January 20, 2023 You need to see if there is a voltage draw...that battery should be able to sit months with out dropping down a full volt in 9 months. I have two of those NAPA group 4's and they never go dead like what you are experiencing...lucky me? I just looked at the one in big red...dated 2013! It still cranks er right up..but the end of that battery is near I suppose. Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 20, 2023 Author Report Posted January 20, 2023 could running the truck for 20 minutes without the generator recharging the battery do this? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 20, 2023 Report Posted January 20, 2023 (edited) No....Have done that many many times. The battery fully charged should run an engine for a few hours before running down. That battery needs to be fully charged and a proper load test done on it to see if it's good. It's possible that.. ***Back in April the battery when new was not fully charged. ***The battery has an internal fault ***Some how while in the fire truck the battery had a unknown drain on it. On my group 4 batterys and others once or twice a year I make sure their fully charged. I use a good old school 10 amp schauer charger leaving it on for usually 10-24 hours. Those group 4's are a ass kicking powerful battery on the big sixes and straight eight MoPar cars and trucks. I've never run one dead. That fire truck has a lot of special electrical equipment that needs to be checked over as you know but cannot be that complicated. The generator and regulator on the fire truck hopefully is the factory std Autolite generator and regulator 45-50 amp system. I would not change or rebuild the generator/ regulator unless absolutely necessary. Run /drive the truck /engine for at least a couple hours before thinking the charging system does not work..... Make sure the generator/regulator wiring is good and correct then simply polarize the generator. The engine off, use a 10" small jumper wire, then for a second only touch wire ends to the "BAT" to "ARM" terminals on the voltage regulator. You will dee a quick small spark. Done...run it for at least 10 minutes to get the regulator warm...it should show a 10-15 amp + charge on the amp meter. As I recall you have the wiring partly disconnected at this point too. Edited January 20, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 20, 2023 Author Report Posted January 20, 2023 I completely removed ALL the wiring from this truck. So far I've wired back 90% of the dodge chassis wiring. I havent done any of the fire truck stuff yet. I was using a 1amp Napa charger to attempt to recharge it. The 10amp charger had it fully charged in an hour. I'll check it again today when I stop by to read the voltage. The generator is an Autolite GGJ-6002B, I wouldn't be surprised if that's bigger than stock, these sirens draw insane amps. I know to jump the Arm and Batt terminal anytime the battery is disconnected. how do you load test a 6v battery? All the load test machines we have are 12v. I'll check the mechanics shop next door too for their opinion. Or I'll check with autozone lol Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted January 20, 2023 Report Posted January 20, 2023 I have a battery load tester that will test either 6 or 12 volt batteries . It is Harbor Freight cheapie . You just read a different part of the scale . Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 21, 2023 Report Posted January 21, 2023 For the 6 volt battery's a carbon pile type load tester is the best way to test a heavy duty 6 volt bsttery IMO. Now days most battery testers are digital and most are made 12 volt. Though heavy truck are 12/24 volt ...many are small hand held units. A carbon pile load tester is generally a small bench top style tester...two adjustable dials/gauges on it. Generally to use one...you need to know the CCA's of your battery...set the carbon pile load tester amp dial to 1/2 of the CCA amp rating....set the timer to 15 seconds ...watch the other volt gauge. If after 15 seconds the voltage reading is still in the green zone for 6 volt scale the battery is good. The mechanic shop next door probably has one? Maybe... The cheapie small hand held chrome rectangle box load testers only put about a 125 amp resistance load on the battery..not a 100% true load test. Your generator # appears as best as I could find is either the optional 50 or 55 amp generator instead of the std. 45 amp unit. Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 26, 2023 Author Report Posted January 26, 2023 Update: Battery has been staying charged now so who knows.... The 6v horn I got is self grounded (+) and triggers with (-) so I gotta get a relay to wired up to the horn buttons (+) to trigger (-) to the horn. Haha All chassis lights work ? but need to replace floor dimmer switch and repair the panel switch. Bott fuel gauges work. Have replacement dodge tank getting worked on before install then I'll have aux tank cleaned and lined. Still waiting on blacksmith for that brake clip... I noticed the repaired radiator is weeping in spots. Also the water pump. So I gotta pull all that crap back out again at some time ??♂️??♂️ Wipers and heater fan work Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 28, 2023 Report Posted January 28, 2023 (edited) You're making some good progress with a couple steps back. That big thick radiator leak is concerning though... I had a new core put in mine...cost...I don't want to say. Hopefully the rad shop will be able to fix it again fast and cheap. Edited January 28, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 28, 2023 Author Report Posted January 28, 2023 I'm praying they cover it under some warranty or good faith since it's done nothing but sit there. They're gonna line the fuel tank I got, I'll ask when I see them about the radiator. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 28, 2023 Report Posted January 28, 2023 (edited) Does it have under body rectangular/oval tanks.....25, 30, 40 gallon? Custom built tanks? Dodge had a few tank options for their bigger trucks...mine has just the 25 gallon right side outer frame mount. Kinda standard... The 18 gallon under cab tank won't fit with the bigger transmissions and air line equipment with air brakes and other equipment..plus 18 gallons won't last long with the larger Moly Block engines. Shown is the passenger side 25 gallon factory rectangular out board tank. Edited January 28, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
E37Bruco Posted January 31, 2023 Author Report Posted January 31, 2023 I don't know why or whose idea it was but, they took a standard 18 gallon between the frame tank and mounted it on the passenger side outer frame rail. Then took a 53 Chevy truck 18 gallon tank and put it in the rear of the cab behind the back seat. There's a fuel valve on the floor between your legs to switch between the tanks. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 1, 2023 Report Posted February 1, 2023 (edited) A Chevy tank on a Dodge? Bring it on over... I'll flatten it with the dozer! Dispicable? Edited February 1, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
E37Bruco Posted February 22, 2023 Author Report Posted February 22, 2023 Was approved another $4,000 for this year's budget. Radiator shop said they'd cover the leak under warranty. They currently are working on the fuel tank. Battery seems to be staying charged now. No clue what that was about. When I go to rebuild the water pump again what methods are you guys using? I cut a felpro gasket and used water pump RTV on both sides of that. Should I just use an RTV? Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted February 22, 2023 Report Posted February 22, 2023 I have mostly used Permatex brushable or paste type #2 non drying gasket sealer on the paper gaskets. This on all the older car and truck stuff. New cars and trucks...what the manufacturer or gasket supplier calls for. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 23, 2023 Report Posted March 23, 2023 Boy that was a big hurdle for such a small item to get replaced... They even painted them! What's the next step? Quote
E37Bruco Posted March 23, 2023 Author Report Posted March 23, 2023 Pulling the radiator for repairs again. Waiting on the replacement dodge tank to get lined. Gonna pull the Chevy tank to line it. Need to bleed brakes. Then road testing and body work. Electrical is nearly complete too. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted March 23, 2023 Report Posted March 23, 2023 3rd time on the radiator? Hope not! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.