wagoneer Posted December 30, 2021 Report Share Posted December 30, 2021 I'm replacing my temperature gauge from my Windsor console; I've undone the screws in the back, took out the thermocoupling from the block, but I can't seem to slide the gauge face/glass out from the back. (had to disconnect the ammeter wiring too and others around there). Seems to get hung up on the top part, or the glass doesn't fit through the back. Do I need to remove the front of the instrument console glass (somehow) and install the gauge from the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted December 31, 2021 Report Share Posted December 31, 2021 The gauge has to be tilted carefully one certain way and then it will come out of the cluster... if needed tomorrow I could look and pull one to see which way to tilt it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted January 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 (edited) Thanks to @Dodgeb4ya for the excellent answer - I was able to successfully remove it in less than a minute. The secret is that when you pull out the gauge, the first bit slides down to allow for the top to tip out backwards. Below are the instructions I received: 1. Unscrew the gauge...carefully fully break it free from the gasket under it. 2. Start by lifting the bottom of gauge outward and slightly up... 3. #2 pic....you will see the bourdon flat wide tube..that needs to be slightly lifted up and just out of the cluster case and the drop guage down slightly.. 4. #3 pic...now you can tilt the top of the gauge carefully outward being careful not to hit the needle pivot at the top..see arrows for tabs and things you need to watch out for.... 5. Tilting the guage outward at the top then pulling it out will remove it. 6. The armored capillary tube needs to be loose through the firewall to let the guage come out freely.. Just take your time..be gentle and look at the pics for interference items. And the result: One stuck gauge Edited January 3, 2022 by wagoneer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 3, 2022 Report Share Posted January 3, 2022 Glad to help and that I had some parts clusters and a dash to help ya out! I had to try it myself the easy way on the bench.... in the car is difficult on a 1946-48 Chrysler. 1949-50 are way more difficult. Need to pull the cluster out... not fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted January 10, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 (edited) Successful gauge replacement with a few tricks: 1. Make sure the turn and ammeter wires are out of the way to the right of the gauge opening here; the sides of the gauge will cut the sheathing, and the wires will block proper placement route the gauge wire cable ABOVE the steering column through the wires and out the firewall . firewall keeper and grommet remove from engine bay and pry out gently. 2. Slide the bottom of the gauge (glass up) almost flat so you can get around the corners. It will go halfway up. 3. From behind the dash, the copper spring needs to be gently lifted up (use the cable only) and over the lip to get it solidly in. It’s the reverse of ate 4 above. 4. The tricky part is getting the two screws back in. get a suitable sized flathead and balance the screw on the end. The head fits snuggly so should be able to stand. A magnet screw driver would help here. basically push the screw through the upper right corner and adjust it around until you feel the screw drop into the slot. yes the screw falls off a few times …. notes: good thing I’m replacing the wiring from alternator and solenoid. Cause my old wiring stripped. also annoying is the cigar lighter and battery wire are on the same terminal needing separating or replacement… Edited January 10, 2022 by wagoneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 10, 2022 Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 There is a special screw driver where the middle of the flat blade pivots and puts spring tension on the screw to hold it. Works great for these situations. Hopefully someone can chime in with the proper name of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldodge41 Posted January 10, 2022 Report Share Posted January 10, 2022 I like this type for small screws. https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/75219576?&cid=ppc-google-____516119521412_c_&mkwid=|dc&pcrid=516119521412&rd=k&product_id=75219576&pgrid=120506394639&ptaid=pla-296274828640&gclid=CjwKCAiAz--OBhBIEiwAG1rIOttg67F4UjHI6DvZyxWbh5lDlrJ-NW0RlBV_vmm8fCCkE9Y_jZD4MBoC9QkQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunah Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 Just some preventative maintenance, you should clean up the ammeter backing plate. Rust jacking can short the posts to the gauge backing plate. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, Kahunah said: Just some preventative maintenance, you should clean up the ammeter backing plate. Rust jacking can short the posts to the gauge backing plate. I don't think that's rust- I think it's a little cardboard insulator that some had Edited January 11, 2022 by Young Ed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 There is a paper cardboard gasket surrounding all 1946-48 Chrysler gauges and the speedo....to seal against dust intrusion. A very tough thing to remove a gauge with out damaging that gasket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted January 11, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 2 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said: There is a paper cardboard gasket surrounding all 1946-48 Chrysler gauges and the speedo....to seal against dust intrusion. A very tough thing to remove a gauge with out damaging that gasket. I have most definitely torn that gasket . That is a missing step to replace the gasket . New one didn’t come with it , but I should have made one at least out of gasket in a tube. Here is the original box for this gauge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 11, 2022 Report Share Posted January 11, 2022 I may have made one out of a cereal or pop box on my 48. You want thin cardboard with a little plastic coating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kahunah Posted January 12, 2022 Report Share Posted January 12, 2022 When I went through the wiring, my ammeter backing plate did have some rust and evidence of arcing. Yours may be okay, just give it a thorough look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodie Posted August 27, 2022 Report Share Posted August 27, 2022 Dodgeb4ya - I enjoyed your write up on removing the fuel gauge . My 1948 Chrysler T @ C has the same problem but am wondering you said in the last picture “one stuck gauge”. Mine is exactly like the picture apparently stuck at 160 as it doesn’t move when driving. When you said stuck did you mean you couldn’t move the needle at all or that the either had leaked out and the gauge no longer moved but you could physically move the needle. Someone told me that when they fail the needle goes back to left side but mine is as your picture shows in the middle position. I am not finding any script lettering NOS gauge to buy so have not taken mine out yet but it would be great if I could get the needle moving by a bit of oil on the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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