lostviking Posted November 28, 2021 Report Share Posted November 28, 2021 I'm hoping to reuse the stock lever, even if I have to modify the bottom end to give it more throw. I've heard they don't have the travel needed, but I can't be sure until I try. What I'm interested in, is how people have connected the two emergency brake cables to the lever. I've got the Jeep plate that the two rear attach to, but the boxed section that rides in, and the front cable mounts to are part of the Jeep. I need to duplicate that function. Anyone done it and can share? TIA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 Nobody? I guess I'll have to get creative. When I figure something out, I'll post it here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 did not use Jeep, used a Dakota on more than one occasion....you know the front cable will connect to the sock vintage handles....or lets just say on the cars they do... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom'sB2B Posted December 5, 2021 Report Share Posted December 5, 2021 The jeep axle I used had the ebrake set in the center console. I have a 1950 B2B, which has the ebrake hand lever under the dash. I was hoping to use the original, but there was not enough movement in the lever under the dash to engage the jeep ebrake. So, a friend gave me ratchet style handbrake out of some unknown vehicle which I mounted to the floor. It's a little clumsy but it works until I can find a better setup. I have also seen a Jeep axle used where the ebrake was the foot action style. The owner was able to mount the foot ratchet on the side of the cab underneath the dash. I look forward to seeing what you come up with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kencombs Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 A lot of the older cars used an intermediate connection point. Two cables from the rear to somewhere in the middle of the car. The cable from the front joined at that point. There was usually a lever connected to and pivoting at that connection. The front and rear cables connect to that lever, at different points. Moving those points allowed for varying the leverage/mechanical advantage. You can sacrifice total motion for greater force. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT81PlymouthPickup Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Fabricated a bracket to my BW T5. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 Wow, thanks for the replies. I was mostly wondering how the rear cables got connected to the front cable. The ones I've seen needed a bracket of some sorts to hold onto the jacket, so it doesn't move when the center cable is pulled. That's the part I'm interested in seeing. I love the bracket you did for the T5 PT81PlymouthPickup. I plan on using the stock setup in that location, although I may have to fabricate a longer portion where the cable connects to give it more throw. If anyone can share how the center got connected that would be very helpful to me, and maybe others contemplating this swap. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT81PlymouthPickup Posted December 6, 2021 Report Share Posted December 6, 2021 I used a bracket which (if my memory serves me correctly) came off the Jeep I got the differential out of. I believe it was an 87 Comanche. I used an old piece of steel square tube to set it off from the frame and made a spreader bar from a piece of cr steel bar stock. It did require having custom length cables made and fabricating a couple other brackets to support the cables from bouncing around. Not rocket science, but I do remember struggling a bit with this project to get it work out correctly. Works Great! I can lock up the rears with that long lever. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2021 That Sir, is exactly the information I was hoping for. Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2021 (edited) I checked around, but was only seeing them on ebay for $50+. I bought this at Speedway for $39 including the shipping. Too bad I had already purchased the equalizer bar for the 95 Cherokee, or I could have saved a few bucks. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/E-Stopp-B-EZ200-Parking-Brake-Cable-Connector-Bracket,326960.html Edited December 11, 2021 by lostviking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT81PlymouthPickup Posted December 11, 2021 Report Share Posted December 11, 2021 44 minutes ago, lostviking said: Too bad I had already purchased the equalizer bar for the 95 Cherokee, or I could have saved a few bucks. Well, Attempting to have "saved a few bucks" when working on vintage vehicles never seems to work out for me. ? Almost every time I take the cheaper way, it costs me more in the long haul. Lols! Anyhow, that Cable Connector Bracket looks like it should work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 12, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 I've been pretty happy with Speedway Motors in general also. The specs on this part are very nice. I believe it's beefier than the stock parts. I can't wait to get it, but I'll still need to fab something at the lever end of things to make the connection to the cable. At least this part of things should work. Once I know where it is going to live, I can plan the cable hangers that I'll need also. I was trying all kinds of searches, but before your post I hadn't used the magic terms. The name you used is how I found this, so thank you again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 22, 2021 That part I bought was not going to be long enough for the exposed lengths of the cables. Not even close, so it makes me wonder what it was for. I went up to the local metal supply store today and bought a piece of .120 wall rectangular 2x3 tubing. I laid the cables out and gave myself a generous portion of the threaded adjuster, then cut the tubing to length. About 16 inches is what I came up with. I used a cutoff wheel and then cut one of the wider walls out also. I cut off the end of the part I bought that the two rear cables go through, and welded it into one of the ends. I did the same for the front, but it is so much narrower, I just didn't like how it came out, so I "removed" it. I'm going to weld a rectangle of the wall I cut out into the open end. Then I'll just cut the hole for the front cable entry. My plan is to cut and remove the jacket on that cable, near the mounting point that goes into the new box I'm making. That can act as the guide and I figure it's nylon lined, so the central cable can ride on it. I'll figure out something to mount it to the stock lever once I get that far. I've heard they don't move enough to engage the rear e-brake, so maybe that will require an extension of the lever. We'll see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2021 I'm not really happy with what I am seeing trying to connect the Jeep e-brake cables to the front of the truck. For one, I will have to get a custom cable made for the drivers side, it's just too short for any mounting point. The passengers side is doable, but... I still have the stock setup and it works fine. My question is can I just remove the cables from the Jeep rear end and plug the holes? Do I need anything connected inside the drums? Merry Christmas to everyone. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2021 I took the drivers drum off and I don't really like the idea of just pulling the cable anymore. I'm not sure about leaving or removing the mechanism in there. I did a bit more reading and the Jeep guy's have figured it out. When they do a lift, they end up with the same problem. The solution is to use two passenger side cables from a 91 or newer Wrangler. The moved the control from the console to the drivers foot well, so the cables on the passenger side had to be longer. I ordered them and will install next week. Now I just need to figure out how to connect the front cable to my stock handle. What could possibly go wrong? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted December 24, 2021 Report Share Posted December 24, 2021 How about a company that sells cable parts and make custom cable to your specs.?? https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-r5ih0/stencil/4b784b50-3203-0137-9a3a-0242ac110004/e/51ec6ff0-3cea-0137-1bdd-0242ac110020/img/body-bg.png controlcables.com - if link is not working. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted December 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2021 17 hours ago, DJ194950 said: How about a company that sells cable parts and make custom cable to your specs.?? https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-r5ih0/stencil/4b784b50-3203-0137-9a3a-0242ac110004/e/51ec6ff0-3cea-0137-1bdd-0242ac110020/img/body-bg.png controlcables.com - if link is not working. DJ Thanks for the link. They have a lot of nice stuff that might come in handy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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