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Block cleaning methods?


Bryan
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Eventually when I get this engine out, I'm planning to have it cleaned and magnafluxed, and broken bolts removed if block and head are okay.  I'll probably do some quick inspection at the place, pick it up and take it back to my shop to inspect more thoroughly. Then have the machine work done.   Questions:  1.  What type of different block cleaning methods are out there, and what are the best?   I know acid removes mineral deposits and rust. Bleach removes organic. Seen high temperature cooking.  2. How much would they cost?    3.  I know to remove crank, pistons, valves, freeze plugs, oil galley plugs, distribution tube, etc.  Anything else not so obvious that I should do for prep work?

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as you yourself stated...the list is long for the ways to achieve the end goal.  MOST ALL machine shops will not do any work to the block unless they dip and process the block themselves regardless of how clean it is when you take it to them.  First step would be to ask if your local machinists will require this.  If so, just basic cleaning so you can handle the parts with less grit and grime for the parts you will remove and process yourself.   And by the way.....when the machine shop returns your block....I assure you it will be nasty inside and I suggest a good thorough cleaning after the fact of work accomplished....many many rebuilds have been ruined assuming the block was ready to build on return.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I followed your similar path. After I measured everything up and knew exactly what I had, I stripped the block bare. I took it to the machine shop for a hot tank and magnaflux crack check. It passed. I picked it up and took it home again. At that time I knew what parts I needed and sourced proper sizes and options.  I held everything until I had all the new parts. Then I took the block back to the machine shop later for all machining. I provided the machine shop with rebuild parts for measuring only. I reassembled everything later at home. The shop boiled the block again a second time. It turned out extremely clean. All my inside passages are excellent. 

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I chose not to have my D25 block hot-tanked as I wanted to preserve the aged appearance.  A couple bucks down at the coin wash (wash wand seen at top-left) flushed out a lot of debris and I've had no cooling issues since the rebuild. The brass water distribution tube was removed prior to the flushing.

 

 

B2 Flush water jacket copy.jpg

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