Jump to content

Head bolt schoolin


Tired iron

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just found this forum from over at HAMB and this place is just what I need!

 

I've got a 1950 Dodge Meadowbrook that I'm start to restore...well, maybe should say wake up first as it's been sitting for many years.

 

I took the head off cause I had 3 valves stuck and wanted to check status of cylinders etc. All looks pretty good and I got the valves unstuck, so I'd like to put a fresh head gasket on and put her back together for a comp test and run.

 

So regarding headbolts, can I reuse them or should I replace? And if I elect to replace, can I get away with grade 8s or do I need to go with ARPs? At this point I'm not wanting to put alot of money in it as I dont really even know what I've got here.

 

I guess I'd just rather reuse, but I get nervous about them breaking ( especially after seeing the broke deadbolt pull here!) , tho I did get them all out just fine.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Ken said, they are reuseable as long as they are in good shape.  One use only headbolts are a relatively new thing for Mopar.  As for ARP's, you could go that route, way over kill.  I got a set of Pioneer head bolts for mine.  

 

One note on the stuck valves, I have tried a number of things but what I found that works for me is regular old brake fluid.  Just put some on the valve stem with a precision oiler, then using a plastic faced hammer I tap the vale seated, roll the engine over to push the ale back up.  Took me maybe 10 minutes of doing that to free up the last three ales I had stuck and nothing else worked.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As mentioned, cleaning the threads in the block and on the bolts with a thread chaser is a good idea, and be sure to use thread sealant on any bolts that go into the water jacket (which might be all of them, but not sure). You might want to go ahead and use sealant on all the bolts, even the ones that don't go into the water jacket, just so you get uniform preload across all bolts.  Just don't use too much sealant or it can pool up in the bottom of the hole and crack the block when the end of the bolt gets forced down into that same space in the hole when torquing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those bolts feel sorta skimpy when you are torquing them up. Is it 85 Ft lbs? I puckered up and winced as the wrench clicked. 

Maybe I’m just used to larger Caterpillar  hardware in my work environment. I don’t like re-using bolts that are stretched and effectively locked into place when elongated. I’m not sure that’s the process with these head bolts. However I have replaced them all with new, each time I have taken them out.  Sort of a best practice for me. I like to think “if in doubt throw it out” when it comes to certain parts. Head bolts fall into that category for me. 
 

BTW recently I did apply Permatex thread sealant to all head bolts. So I should be good. I think!

Edited by keithb7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Finding specific listings is getting expensive.  Moparmall has them for $90, seen them on Ebay for the same.

 

Here are the specs so you can find something else more reasonable.

 

21pcs

11/16 hex head

7/16 thread

2.875 U.H.L ( under head length )

3-3/16 O.A.L ( over all length )

 

A set of Pioneer PIONEER PG362 is slightly longer at 3.000 in.U.H.L but work.  $35 for a set of 25

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-pg-362-25

 

Pioneer S1018 for the washers. $9.00.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/washers?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=PIONEER S1018

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, Tired iron said:

And since you replace them, what kind do you use and where do you get them? Just standard grade 8s or specifically headbolts?

I used Caterpillar bolts #1D4556 000, sealer on threads, film of grease on head of bolt, no washer, retorque after each of 3 heat cycles. 3k miles, no issues. I did reuse the 2 bolts with threads in the head for the ground and throttle return spring eyelet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/25/2021 at 1:27 PM, Sniper said:

One note on the stuck valves, I have tried a number of things but what I found that works for me is regular old brake fluid.  Just put some on the valve stem with a precision oiler, then using a plastic faced hammer I tap the vale seated, roll the engine over to push the ale back up.  Took me maybe 10 minutes of doing that to free up the last three ales I had stuck and nothing else worked.

Reckon I'll try that on Thursday.  Doing something else tomorrow. I'll have to turn the adjuster back up and give it a go.  I have a long breaker bar on the large crank nut. It won't hurt the camshaft or anything?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/25/2021 at 7:03 PM, keithb7 said:

I went with Andy Burnbaum. Seen here. 
 

 

DEA7EF28-277A-42ED-B3F7-1B87EEAEF664.jpeg

Fitment charts are strange.  this one shows cars 33-59 and trucks 33-56 to be the same.  But for some reason truck 57-60 are different.  Same engine same bolts AFAIK.  But if one didn't know that and was looking for bolts for a 60 truck, they wouldn't have them here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Fitment charts are strange.  this one shows cars 33-59 and trucks 33-56 to be the same.  But for some reason truck 57-60 are different.  Same engine same bolts AFAIK.  But if one didn't know that and was looking for bolts for a 60 truck, they wouldn't have them here.

V8s were available then so perhaps that is the separation

Edited by Young Ed
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, kencombs said:

But they were available earlier that that too, 54 up I think.  Wish I had one for my project!

I know it's odd. Also I believe the 30s one came with studs instead

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/25/2021 at 3:17 PM, Sniper said:

Finding specific listings is getting expensive.  Moparmall has them for $90, seen them on Ebay for the same.

 

Here are the specs so you can find something else more reasonable.

 

21pcs

11/16 hex head

7/16 thread

2.875 U.H.L ( under head length )

3-3/16 O.A.L ( over all length )

 

A set of Pioneer PIONEER PG362 is slightly longer at 3.000 in.U.H.L but work.  $35 for a set of 25

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-pg-362-25

 

Pioneer S1018 for the washers. $9.00.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/washers?fr=part-type&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=PIONEER S1018

I bought the twenty-five pack from summit racing. Super happy with them. Thanks for the tip.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Tired iron said:

I bought the twenty-five pack from summit racing. Super happy with them. Thanks for the tip.

With needing only 21, you can cut the heads off 4 and use them as guides to align the gasket and head..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 12/8/2021 at 3:25 AM, Bryan said:

With needing only 21, you can cut the heads off 4 and use them as guides to align the gasket and head..

thats a great idea, I'll cut the heads off two of my old ones for head/gasket alignment thanks for the tip

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 3/7/2022 at 6:10 AM, Sniper said:

Might want to slot the end so you can use a screwdriver to uninstall them.

did that as well, I am trying to find some info here about what to treat the FelPro head gasket #7564 C from Andy Bernbaum's. I believe from what it looks like, its a copper gasket. I have read hear to not use anything, to using a copper gasket compound such as K&M copper coat on one side or both sides?, so if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be much appreciated thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use