Jump to content

Head gaskets and bolts


Recommended Posts

Any thing that goes into water (coolant) gets thread sealer.  What kind of sealant on the head gasket really depends on what you head gasket is made of as well as what the head is made of. 

 

These guys have a pretty good write up on this, scroll down to see it.

 

http://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.htmlhttp://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html

Edited by Sniper
Link to post
Share on other sites

I have found that the paste sealant on my flat heads does not seal that well. Why, I have no idea. What I have used is the yellow pipe tape on them and I never have a problem.  I do use ARP head studs on all my engines with their washers and nuts and have for 20 years.

 

James

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Sniper said:

What is yellow pipe tape?  Never heard of that.

Locally, and I think nationally, the yellow stuff is approved for gas piping.  The normal white is not.  Works but not approved,not sure why.

edit to add link:

https://www.amazon.com/live/channel/20c19cc9-fa0a-49fb-ad85-eab0f5387354?ref=AL_DP_ILM_B_CB9-15&pd_rd_w=qka3n&pf_rd_p=2b31d73f-928a-4b36-a71e-26846268badb&pf_rd_r=QZ1WHS4XZY1G0FHE97QJ&pd_rd_r=c4f31524-4441-438d-b7b1-d27e18d5daa7&pd_rd_wg=XhyQ5

Edited by kencombs
Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe yellow pipe tape refers to the color of the packaging, refers to the grade of the tape .... yellow being suited for natural gas or propane pipe fittings.

Possibly now days the tape is actually yellow so inspectors can easily identify it?

Just a WAG because modern pex gas piping is yellow, while pex water lines is red & blue.

 

Back in the day when I was pretending to be a carpenter, did a lot of kitchen & bath remodels.

When screwing pipe joints together, I always had better luck with pipe dope.

Sometimes when working under a sink, I do not have pipe dope with me but always have pipe tape in my tool belt I would use it. Simply to save a trip out to the van to get the pipe dope. Only if I had 1 or 2 connections to make, if more connections I always brought the pipe dope.

Just always seemed 1 out of 10 or 15 joints, would not seal with tape.

 

The trick with either tape or dope, you need to apply more then you need. When you get a good amount of excess oozing out, you know you have enough.

You can get away with this on rough in plumbing under the house or sink, installing faucets & shower heads etc... you need to keep it clean and use tape.

Or spend a extra hour at the customers house cleaning up your mess after installation.

 

I suspect after all the time we spend cleaning and painting our engines, is natural to try to keep the mess to a minimal and try to apply just the right amount of pipe dope needed and no extra mess to clean up.

Myself after insuring all the threads are cleaned, I will put a generous amount of dope on the bolt. Yes it will ooze out while tightened. 

I will scoop the excess up, put it back in the can then spend the extra time needed with a rag and mineral spirits to clean the mess ... maybe touch up paint if needed.

Just my experience using pipe dope .... make sure you have more then enough to fill all the voids and imperfections.

Link to post
Share on other sites

On my freshly rebuilt engine I used permatex white pipe pudding.  After letting it sit for a week, I started the engine and its started weeping in some areas.  I reapplied on these bolts and the weeping was less but never completely sealed.   
ran the engine (on a stand about) 8 times for about 15-20 minutes and the weeping stopped.  Almost like if the water or any sediment that might be in the waterjacket sealed it??  

Ive heard a few folks state that this is normal

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I use to build Trickle Impregnator machines for the electric motor manufacturing industries. We would have to heat the armatures and stators and apply a polyester resin on the windings and then maintain a 250deg temp. We had fire extinguishers on these machines. We used pipe dope on the threads It was always said if you don't want to take it apart use pipe dope. Otherwise use tape. Pipe dope does get hard after a while.

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the one I used. Says right on it for head bolts into thru holes. Gotta get the High Performance stuff? I did. 
 

Not all are rated for gasoline. This one is.  Seems to be all I wanted in 1. 
I guess we’ll see when I fire up my new engine rebuild. 
 

4A325B06-F16D-47B6-B5B7-DF80AEB84237.jpeg

2944F8AF-9BF3-403E-AF2F-9AA95646C5D6.jpeg

Edited by keithb7
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/25/2021 at 5:17 PM, keithb7 said:

This is the one I used. Says right on it for head bolts into thru holes. Gotta get the High Performance stuff? I did. 
 

Not all are rated for gasoline. This one is.  Seems to be all I wanted in 1. 
I guess we’ll see when I fire up my new engine rebuild. 
 

4A325B06-F16D-47B6-B5B7-DF80AEB84237.jpeg

2944F8AF-9BF3-403E-AF2F-9AA95646C5D6.jpeg

Some of the guys on the Power Wagon forums have used this stuff in head bolt applications on the flathead sixes for many thousands or tens of thousands of miles with good success.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use