dimmer switch

[blue p15]

I have had two dimmer switches from NAPA literally fall apart during he installation process!  Are there any good ones out there?

[greg g]

Mine got caught in my floor mat hole and flew apart.  Don't think there are any good ones to be had.  If you have a local car quest jobber try them.  The one I bought there for my Studebaker truck few years back appeared to be OK, but only time it gets used is at annual inspection time when it's checked if it works.  The last two guys had to be told how it worked and what it was for...  Don't drive at night any more so no big deal.  Push comes to shove you can always wire it through a double pole double throw toggle switch.

[desoto1939]

try ebay and look up Echlin Dimmer switch 103 used on all autolite equiped cars up to 1949   chrysler part number 1253003

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Waldo]

Yea you can find anything on Ebay, I just looked under vintage switches and found a brand new old stock dimmer switch, not a Dodge part but looks the same in a box for $5 plus shipping. Also picked up a very old cool looking fog light, 6in yellow seal beam, looks like it's been on the truck for years, I love stuff like that, guess I'd never be in a car show with all the stock guys.

[Bryan G]

I had the same trouble; Standard, made in Mexico, not made all that different from the original. Flew all apart. I gathered the pieces together and managed to get it back together correctly. The trouble seemed to be that the factory just didn't crimp it together tight enough. So far my crimp job has held up okay. I'd agree, NOS might be a good way to go.

[Dave72dt]

Echlin is a member of the Standard Motor Parts, Inc family.  those dimmer switches could easily have come out of the same factory.

[Bryan]

13 hours ago, Bryan G said:

I had the same trouble; Standard, made in Mexico, not made all that different from the original. Flew all apart. I gathered the pieces together and managed to get it back together correctly. The trouble seemed to be that the factory just didn't crimp it together tight enough. So far my crimp job has held up okay. I'd agree, NOS might be a good way to go.

Just got mine in. Based on what you are saying I'll bend the tabs down more.

[Bryan]

Think I'll also smear some silicone around on some of the joints and terminal entries to make it more water resistant.

[greg g]

Those tabs holding on to the stomp part are barely peened over.  Couple off center stomps and that's headed for the dumpster.

[Bryan]

3 minutes ago, greg g said:

Those tabs holding on to the stomp part are barely peened over.  Couple off center stomps and that's headed for the dumpster.

I'll fix em...

[Bryan G]

On mine it was the ones holding the phenolic on that let loose. (last photo) It won't take much to tighten them up. Guessing the 16 year old girls that put these together don't have a lot of strength in their hands!

 

I'll also point out, the contacts were in a different order on the new one vs the original. Could vary by model, I guess. Initially I found the dimmer would just turn the lights on and off. I reversed two wires and it was fine.

Edited November 20, 2021 by Bryan G

[Plymouthy Adams]

while at the swap meet I saw the dimmer switches offered for sale....monkey metal case and the difference between the big three being the connector used...they were all just simply dimpled-in place contact plates that looked like they could blow out from the bottom very easily.  The one shown above is much heavier made, and was just not assembled as it should have been...little rework  here and you got a better unit that is one that could be service down the road maybe.  

[greg g]

This one looks like it would do the job for a good while.

 

https://peerlesselectronics.com/7787-switch?utm_campaign=utm_campaign&utm_content=utm_content&utm_medium=utm_medium&utm_source=utm_source&utm_term=utm_term&utm_campaign=9526344450&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_content=421850933646&utm_term=&adgroupid=97013154373&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1Ivvjqqn9AIVTGxvBB39PQm_EAQYIyABEgK9AvD_BwE

[TodFitch]

21 minutes ago, greg g said:

This one looks like it would do the job for a good while.

 

https://peerlesselectronics.com/7787-switch

Edited link to remove the Internet tracking cruft.

 

There seems to be two standard spacings for mounting screws and most of the replacement dimmer switches I’ve seen are set up for both. This switch only has one set of mounting holes so I would double check the spacing to see if it is correct for our cars.

[Plymouthy Adams]

my dimmer on one build here is a bi-stable flip flop triggering a relay....ignition off....always defaults to low beam on power up....the dimmer on this model is so uncomfortable of a position stock it was not what I call a safety feature but more of a hinderance.  

[Art Bailey]

Seeing this post, I decided to tear into my dimmer switch, which was frozen solid with rust. An hour or so of light taps, WD-40, persuasion, cleaning contacts with a points file, it's good as new. It's such a robust, bombproof thing, I wouldn't hesitate to gamble and pick a crusty one up from ebay or one of the junkyards.