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A POINT to remember......


48 New Yorker

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Just wanted to pass along something I discovered today (seasoned members probably already know this). 

 

My 48 New Yorker had been sitting outdoors for about 3 weeks since it's last start.  Tried today to go for a run.....crank, crank, crank, no start.....shot of ether...nothing. 

 

Popped the cap off and stuck a piece of heavy stock paper between the points and made a few "wipes", revealing slight smudge of something (?) on the paper, then...presto - fired on the 1st rev. 

 

Kinda surprised at how quickly the points became disabled (they are about 2 months old).....  Could be due to some blow-by,  (I've installed a factory style pcv valve + closed breather to air cleaner and plumbed in an oil catch can to mitigate).  And, although we got some well needed rain during this period, my hood doesn't leak and engine stays dry.

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Question: Did you put any oil into the cap on the side of the body of the Dizzy. This small hole is used to lube the two bearing inthe dizzy shaft.  If there any other film of oil or soot inside the dizzy body?  Did you put any lubricant onto the cam or the block that rubs against the dizzy cam?

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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Old time mechanics always had black marks on edges of their shirts. Before they installed a set of points they would rub them on the cloth to make sure there was nothing on them. Any oil from manufacturing or preservative would burn on the points and cause a "come back."

If you have a dusty road and one of those GM "Window" distributor caps, the dust gets burned into glass and the points won't close.

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Rich has a good point here. When installing new points, I have found the oils on a new set of feeler gauges will transfer to the points, prevent fire.

I learned to always insert a business card or heavy paper in-between the points after setting them. Be surprised at how much grease and grime comes off the points after setting them ... use a white business card and always wipe twice or more til it comes out clean.

We all know it is the 3rd wipe that tells you 2 wipes was enough.

 

Just thinking setting the points is one way to introduce grease to them ... we all need to lube up the nylon rub block that rides on the shaft to open the points ... thats another way. Even oils from your fingers while setting them will affect them.

 

Sooo, if you did not run paper through them when you installed them, maybe just now is catching up with you.

I had one truck I fought for a few days that would not start after doing a tune up on it. I was young and just as stupid then as I am today.

 

 

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33 minutes ago, Sniper said:

In a pinch a dollar bill will do the job too, but I cannot remember the last time I had paper money on me.

Being married, If I am dishonest and lie ... I can stash away & $100 or so in my wallet.

Wife always asking if I got $20 ... Heck no, go kick rocks and stop at the ATM   :D  she knows am lying and sometimes give in to her.

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It is odd stuff that ends up on old or new points that have been sitting for especially a long time.

I just went thru this on points in my Mallory distributor in my 51 Plymouth.

They were like new when I parked it over 10 years ago.

Pulled the distributor lnow before I started it there would be build up on both sets.

There was....a thick waxy like layer on both contacts...lightly scraped it off with a worn dull point file.

After cleaning and lubing the distributor fired right up.

Been through this many times with point contamination.

Another issue I have had only on the Chrysler straight eight points with the fiber resin pivot hole and rubbing block  is the points sticking open after a drive and shutting the engine off..oiling/cam lube doesn't fix the problem. Filing the pivot hole is the only fix. Problem is swelling of the fiber resin hole.

This has occured only on the OE Autolite resin pivot/rubbing block point sets.

Nylon pivot/rubbing block style points... never any sticking open point arms.

 

 

 

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57 minutes ago, plymjim said:

Back in "the day" when smoking was in vogue you could whip

a pack of matches out of your pocket & clean/dry & gap your

points with said tool. They were just about .20 thick.

 

My Zippo is much to thick to work.

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Since we are talking about points and lube:

 

What is the right lube to put on the hexagon ramp? Something readily available ideally. In my scouring of the auto parts stores, I’ve yet to see breaker arm cam lube. Seems nobody needs it, or stocks it anymore? Just us weird old car guys need it.  1 tube would probably last me a life time. 
 

So, what do I buy? Where?

Edited by keithb7
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1 hour ago, keithb7 said:

Since we are talking about points and lube:

 

What is the right lube to put on the hexagon ramp? Something readily available ideally. In my scouring of the auto parts stores, I’ve yet to see breaker arm cam lube. Seems nobody needs it, or stocks it anymore? Just us weird old car guys need it.  1 tube would probably last me a life time. 
 

So, what do I buy? Where?

My 80yo friend gave me a tube of Blue Streak LUBRICAM. Not sure if it is still available, will google it.

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I have had my big tube of "Rotunda" cam lube for at least 25 years.

Don't use Chinese points!☠?

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Wrong product name
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