Radiator Woes

[OUTFXD]

One of Jaquiline's big issues is a coolant leak. a big one. I can fill the radiator and (Without  the engine running) the radiator will loose two to three gallons in, say, 10 minutes.

 

 

There is no Water in the oil,  There is no Steam from the exhaust. The radiator seems.... okay (Needs work, stay tuned)

 

A puddle does form under the car. However with the heavy rain we are currently getting, and the fact I have a gravel drive.  I am hesitant to get under  the car.

 

I can see water running down the front of the engine, but not where it is coming from. At this point I am planning to Replace all the radiator hoses, and tear down/Rebuild the water pump. clean up the Thermostat housing and install new gaskets.

 

Before I start on this endeavor....  I there anything I should know/look for while I am in there? Any and all advice welcome!

Edited November 5, 2021 by OUTFXD

[Sniper]

Pull the radiator out, it'll make the job easier.  Lay it front side down and fill it with water, see if it leaks.  If it does, get it fixed, if not clean the honey comb core real well, I was amazed at the amount of dirt in mine when I cleaned the outside.  Lot's of it.

 

You might be able to take an old bicycle inner tube, put it over each neck on the radiator, make sure one of them has the schrader valve, put some air pressure in it and use a spray bottle of soapy water to hunt for leaks, it'll bubble up where it is leaking.  Don't forget the overflow tube, it'll need capped off.

[OUTFXD]

25 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Pull the radiator out, it'll make the job easier.  Lay it front side down and fill it with water, see if it leaks.  If it does, get it fixed, if not clean the honey comb core real well, I was amazed at the amount of dirt in mine when I cleaned the outside.  Lot's of it.

 

You might be able to take an old bicycle inner tube, put it over each neck on the radiator, make sure one of them has the schrader valve, put some air pressure in it and use a spray bottle of soapy water to hunt for leaks, it'll bubble up where it is leaking.  Don't forget the overflow tube, it'll need capped off.

Visually inspecting the radiator in the car I can spot three or so pinhole leaks so I was planning on having the radiator gone through after the holidays... Just have to find a craftsman who does radiators.  I want someone who has done a thousand Radiator and can rebuild mine while taking a nap instead of some Minimum wage Millennial who has never OWNED a car with a copper radiator.

[Booger]

cooling is critical. and its really hard to isolated a cell thats peeing. much less clean it to a degree where it can be soldered. sometimes you have to let go.

youre doing such a great job on your project...maybe time go new (say good bye to all the gunk)

[OUTFXD]

On a related topic... Is there any point to an overflow tank on our engines?  I have a friend who insists they are important.  I am... skeptical.

[OUTFXD]

Also... WTF?  a 1949 +  Radiator. $200 to $250.  a 1946 Radiator $800-$1300 Urge to destroy world rising! Tell me someone on the sight knows of a place that charges a reasonable amount for a 1946 Radiator. PLEASE!

Edited November 5, 2021 by OUTFXD

[plymouthcranbrook]

Overflow tank is not needed. After all leaks are fixed fill the car and either run it or better if possible drive it for a while. The radiator will find it’s own level and unless a leak appears will stay there. Make sure your pressure cap is working as well.  Also sometimes not only is finding someone to work on the old radiators hard but can be expensive as well

[OUTFXD]

Okay. JEGS has a 1947 radiator for $260. 

Buyaradiator.com "On sale" for $240 if I buy in the next 11 hours *rolls eyes*

Found a universal radiator for $199, But honestly I dont like "Universal" parts/

 

Calming down a bit.  What years are compatible with my 1946?

Edited November 5, 2021 by OUTFXD

[Sniper]

I don't know that I would trust that Jeg's listing as having full coverage listed.  My interchange manual says 49-50 Plymouth's use the same radiator, Jeg's (and Champion) says 47-49.  Unfortunately, my interchange doesn't go back to 46.

[OUTFXD]

Visually the Jegs Radiator looks like the 1949+ radiator. (cap located horizontal in the middle of the radiator instead of to the left at an Diagonal,  Straight inlet instead of Curved).  I am on the fence if this will fit, but not have the stock appearance.  Also, its alluminum,  which has a much lower Heat Transmission than copper. which means poorer cooling.\

 

LOOKS like 46-47-48 are interchangeable, 1949 is a different radiator.  No idea if it will fit or not.

Edited November 5, 2021 by OUTFXD

[allbizz49]

My 53 recently developed a leak. I have a local radiator shop that does great work. He rebuilt mine with a modern style core, which was 50 bucks cheaper than the original style core. Still was 750 bucks but like I said, he does great work and has always come through for me. If you don't mind aluminum,  measure your original and see what champion has that matches. If not, I'm afraid you'll have to pay up. 

[kencombs]

3 hours ago, Sniper said:

I don't know that I would trust that Jeg's listing as having full coverage listed.  My interchange manual says 49-50 Plymouth's use the same radiator, Jeg's (and Champion) says 47-49.  Unfortunately, my interchange doesn't go back to 46.

Probably due to that early 49, late 49 thing.  Lots of parts book miss on mid-model-year changes, and Mopar was known for those. 

[joecoozie]

5 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Also... WTF?  a 1949 +  Radiator. $200 to $250.  a 1946 Radiator $800-$1300 Urge to destroy world rising! Tell me someone on the sight knows of a place that charges a reasonable amount for a 1946 Radiator. PLEASE!

 Consider yourself lucky with a price quote of $800-$1300, especially if they are doing the original honeycomb design.

A little over 20 years ago I was looking to have my Chrysler Windsor radiator redone - cost  - $3000.00

I later brought an 8 cylinder radiator from a Chrysler to be redone - cost  - $5000.00

Eventually I found an NOS 6 cylinder radiator for my Windsor for $500.00. but I had to do a lot of searching.......

[Dodgeb4ya]

I paid over $1800.00 for a recore on my Dodge 4 ton truck.

[chrysler1941]

3 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I paid over $1800.00 for a recore on my Dodge 4 ton truck.

I also paid $1000 to re-core my other car to keep the original look. Worth every dime. Never overheats.  

[Andydodge]

This is only an uneducated guess, however I would be prepared to suggest that within the same brand within the mopar family that the radiator for Plymouth considering that the car design was basically the same from 1940 to 1948 that the radiators from 1940-48 would be the same.........and I would think that would also apply to 1940-1948 Dodge radiators.......this is only a guess but its my guess...........and considering that BOTH Dodge and Plymouth used the same basic 23" engine then it would stand to reason that they would use a similar if not the same radiator............again only a guess...........andyd    

[Sniper]

Ok, I went and dug thru my parts manual.  There is one part number, 947450, for the radiator used in 1942-1948 Plymouths.  Dodge uses a different part number.  Can't say what different though.

 

One on Ebay right now

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/362691764893

[keithb7]

I’ve played around a bit with old flat heads the past 5 years. Cooling systems issues are pretty common among many old cars. Our Mopars do have some unique things that produce similar complaints when the act up. 
 

If I were pulling the rad to get it serviced, might as well do it right. 
 

Open drain petcock at the block. Does coolant flow out? Or is it plugged full of settled rust and scale. (Likely)

 

Pull the rad. Look in thru the cap hole at the cores in it? Partially plugged? Likely. White calcium build up? Likely.  Take rad to shop. Have them re-core it. Do not buy a new modern crap rad that you could make fit in there. 
 

Remove water pump. Toss it if you have no idea how old it is. Extract what’s left of the water distribution tube. Locate a new one. Don’t put it in yet. 
 

Remove thermostat housing and thermostat. Source a new replacement. 
Pop out a few block plugs down by the distributor shaft. Start shovelling out the 4” deep layer of scale and rust thats in the bottom of the block. Keep scooping it out. Get a long screwdriver and break it up. Get the crap out. Start flushing water thru the block. In thru the water distribution tube hole.  It’ll flow out the block holes you opened up.  Put more water in thru the thermostat hole. Keep flushing. Keep prying out the crap. 
 

Once you are satisfied block is as clear as you can get it, install new block plugs. Install a new thermostat, gasket & housing. Install new water distribution tube. Install new waterpump and gasket. New rad hoses if wanted. Install newly re-cored radiator. With new rad cap. 
 

You’ll likely be good for another 60 years. No more chasing cooling system issues. 

Edited November 6, 2021 by keithb7

[Sam Buchanan]

14 hours ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

Overflow tank is not needed. After all leaks are fixed fill the car and either run it or better if possible drive it for a while. The radiator will find it’s own level and unless a leak appears will stay there. Make sure your pressure cap is working as well.  Also sometimes not only is finding someone to work on the old radiators hard but can be expensive as well

 

The P15 does not have a pressure cooling system, it is an open vent to the atmosphere. A pressure cap can be used but it doesn't have any function other than keeping the coolant from sloshing out the radiator.

 

Since no pressure, an overflow tank serves no purpose. Best to leave coolant an inch or so  below the top of the radiator so it won't slosh out the vent tube during high-G ? right turns.

Edited November 6, 2021 by Sam Buchanan

[plymouthcranbrook]

I wasn’t sure about when Plymouth went to the low pressure cap like my 52 has.  Always something to check if applicable.

[Johnboy]

Bought a radiator on ebay said it fit 40-41 Plymouth. It looked the same as my 1940 radiator. When I went to install and pulled out old radiator I found out mounting bracket was different and couldn’t use.

[Frank Gooz]

I just had the core replaced in my 1950 Dodge Coronet. The shop used a vertical tube core cleaned and painted all for 608.00 out the door.

Then my heater core that was 268.00 more. I think they both look great. I will get some picture Sunday as I just got home from work.

 

[Bbdakota]

On a couple cars I've had now where a direct replacement aluminum radiator was not available, I'd buy an aluminum radiator by the size and inlet/outlet placement then add brackets or modify as needed. Most might not have a high frequency TIG setup but you might have friends who do. I also don't care that it's aluminum vs original buy I understand why some would want to keep the original look. On my 48 dodge d24, I made the system pressurized and added a moonshine jug as a overflow tank effectively raising the boiling point as an extra measure of caution. 

[sidevalvepete]

3 hours ago, Bbdakota said:

added a moonshine jug as a overflow tank

Haha....looks like you have a little still going on there?

[Andydodge]

Looks good......just a question tho'.........on just about every aluminium radiator installation I've seen the radiator is never painted black............is there a reason for the non painting?.......I have a modified copper/brass Oz GM Commodore radiator in my 40 Dodge, made up by the local radiator shop 20 yrs ago, painted black and working fine..........anyway as mentioned I am curious why the radiator was not painted?........regards, andyd