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Engine Pulling - Parts to always replace?


Bryan

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Will probably pull my engine in a few weeks.  It had a knock back in the 90s, I was overseas and never got to it til now.  Anyway, when you pull an engine with the transmission, what parts do you suggest always replacing?    I have to wait to see condition/size of pistons, rings, bearings etc.. but if it was never overhauled and has 90K on it...always replace the oil pump?  Anything else in the drive line?

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All new Gaskets, New harden valve seats, maybe vale tappets and guides, Maybe grinding the crank and new or oversized bearings, water pump with sealed bearing, new distribution tube, Pressure plate clutch disk throwout bearing and pilot bushing.  New engine mounts, new radiator hoses fan belt, rebuild or checkout the generator, starter, rebuild the carb, flushing the radiator, flushing the trans and possible rebuild, flush the rear end. new inner and outer oil seals, New brake shoes and lines and rebuild wheel and master cylinder. flush and clean the gas tan and possible new fuel lines also add an electric fuel pump. New u joints that can be greased maybe a spliced driveshaft.

 

The list can go on and on

 

hope this give you some direction.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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You will want to get new rubber mounts for the engine, new gaskets, and seals,, new pistons,  rings.  Rods can be reused if not in bad shape. New crank and rod bearings especially if they require machining.New timing gears and chain, new water distribution tube if yours is corroded.   Valves and seats can be reused depending on condition, freeze plugs need to be replaced after boiling out the block.  New valve guides..  Might want to get a new oil pump but I reused mine. Water pump, new h9ses and belts, new thermostat.  Some folks get new heabolts some clean up and reuse the old ones..  if you choose new,, keep the ones that have the threaded heads.they come in handy.  New spark plugs wires and tune up stiff for the distributor number on the dist data plate starts with three letters.

 

Look at what is available from different sources.  Egge for rings and pistons, vintage power wagons, Terrell machine parts for internal parts, Robert's motor parts, Andy burnbaum. And a couple others.  Money can be saved by shopping different sources rather than getting a kit from one vendor.

Edited by greg g
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So far I have a stainless water distribution tube, a water pump (Rock Auto), carb kit, PCV valve setup from Vintage power Wagons, front engine mount, lower radiator hose, freeze plugs,  got a new gas tank a couple of years ago. Some things I need to check like the brake wheel cylinders. .I know my rear differential seal leaks..

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When I was collecting parts for the 230 I was going to install in my 41 Plymouth I found that on US ebay there was a couple of guys in TURKEY, yep, the place in the Middle East that were listing mopar parts under 1948 - mid 50's Plymouth on a regular basis.....apparently Mopar had their Middle East Distribution Centre based in Turkey and these guys had found various old NOS Mopar parts still in the original boxes, also various parts from US companies...........I was able to purchase timing chain & gears, oil pump, full set of tappets, valves and valve springs at really excellent prices, ie, less than the same parts were then available from USA sources, let alone Australian places........these guys also packed and shipped promptly and I never had a problem with shipping or parts.........the reason I mention this is that while you have a 1948 Dodge make sure to check other ebay listings for other years and brands that the parts you want could be listed under...........it does pay to think laterally.............I ended up selling the car & engine separately tho' I hadn't built the engine.....thesed 2 pics are from when I listed the engine & parts for sale..............andyd     

P1000643.JPG

P1000646.JPG

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