Finding Parts from Original MOPAR Numbers.

[Marc123]

I finally found a parts manual for my loader and thought my problems were over.

 

Not so.

The radiator cap and overflow are not quite right.

There is what I presume to be a sealing surface under the cap, about 2" down.

The overflow tube is bent up, but basically just sticks up in the with no attachment, nor does it come into the Side of the radiator filler neck.

The Top of the filler neck also has what I presume to be a sealing surface.

The cap it has had since I got it simply seals at the top.

The radiator will hold no pressure, as any pressure or expansion simply goes out the un-obstructed overflow tube.

I presume something is damaged in my system OR the Correct cap is a two level seal type system.

 

I figured now that I have the part numbers some Googling would provide some info or pictures, No such luck.

The Radiator is a "Chrysler 1074 948"

The Cap is a "Chrysler 962 330"

 

Neither of these numbers map to anything modern.

 

How would I go about finding info using these old part numbers?

Thanks

Marc

 

[TodFitch]

Those numbers are not in my Plymouth parts book so I assume they must have been used on some other Chrysler manufactured vehicle.

 

The numbers are in a range that would probably be from the late 1940s. As I understand it, Plymouth in that era had a non-pressurized cooling system. It would not surprise me if other Chrysler built vehicles of that era were also unpressurized.

 

My first question: Is there any other indication that the engine is over heating (temperature gauge readings, etc.)?

 

My second question: How large, relative to a modern cooling system, is your top tank? It is possible that you are simply overfilling it as the older unpressurized cooling systems used the top of the top tank as the expansion area.

 

I know that if I fill the radiator on my old Plymouth to the top it will spew out coolant through the overflow until it gets down to the proper working level (where the top of the coolant is just barely visible above the core). The car runs nice and cool (with the appropriate thermostat) and the coolant level well below the top of the radiator neck. It would not surprise me if your loader also has a non-pressurized cooling system and will act the same way.

[Marc123]

OK, that's good to know.

 

This loader has been neglected for quite some time.

There are a lot of things I have done to fix it up this summer.

It used to overheat all the time, step one of using it was always to drag out the garden hose.

 

I have neglected the first rule of testing, Change ONE thing at a time...

 

I put a new water pump on it. the bearing in the old one was literally the worst condition I have ever seen a bearing in, I don't know why it didn't seize up.

I dropped the oil pan beat out the dents and fixed the original leaks AND all of the new ones I created with my fix...

I rebuilt the carb.

I removed the distributor, cleaned it up as well as I could, put what are undoubtedly the wrong springs in the centrifugal advance mechanism,

and installed a "Hot Spark" Solid State ignition.

I installed the ballast resistor and Bosch coil Hot Spark recommended.

 

By sheer luck I think I found an appropriate oil filter to install in what I think is a partial flow oil filter. It didn't have anything in it before.

I rebuilt the incomplete emergency brake based on guesses and presumptions on how it should work. I need to revisit that.

 

I had a large explosion in the block when trying to get it to start before I updated the ignition system.

 

I'm trying to get all the Carb and Timing settings figured out.

Currently it's leaking quite a bit of oil around the timing chain cover and spewing a LOT of smoke out the oil filler cap.

The old gauges did not work.

I was overjoyed when the new Oil pressure gauge showed 60 PSI.

Now it's showing 20. 

 

Previously I could barely turn the engine at all with a socket and breaker bar on the nut in the front on the engine.

That had me worried about how I was going to turn it to find TDC.

Now I can turn it over via the fan blades with some effort.

That solved my problem of finding TDC, but overall is probably a bad sign.

 

I probably won't be so lucky, but I'm praying I simply got a bunch of gas in the oil, thinning it out and causing the leaks and smoke.

The exhaust system broke off the manifold where it had been welded on and there is at least one crack in the manifold.

That makes tracking down exhaust leaks and smoke in general a bit tricky.

 

Thanks for the info on the coolant system. I wondered if the were ever actually pressurized.

 

Marc

 

[billrigsby]

1 hour ago, Marc123 said:

The cap it has had since I got it simply seals at the top.

The radiator will hold no pressure, as any pressure or expansion simply goes out the un-obstructed overflow tube.

I presume something is damaged in my system OR the Correct cap is a two level seal type system.

 

If I remember correctly on these engines, the drain tube is below the seal point on the cap. They were designed to just run at atmospheric pressure I believe.

 

[ggdad1951]

10 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

If I remember correctly on these engines, the drain tube is below the seal point on the cap. They were designed to just run at atmospheric pressure I believe.

 

 

correct, these are run at atmospheric pressure.

[Merle Coggins]

On your running hot issue... I don't suppose you checked the distribution tube behind the water pump when you changed it? That is often clogged up, or rotting away on older engines, and causes coolant flow issues through the block. There have also been several documented cases where the block was full of scale reducing the coolant volume and flow. You can remove the core plugs in the block and flush out the block to regain some of the cooling systems efficiency again.