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Jacquiline, My 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe


OUTFXD
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and replaced it with a modern Blade style unit. I have never had the best of luck with crimp on connectors but I couldnt find my self solder/shrink wrap connectors, and it is getting replaced with a professionally soldered piece when the wiring harness is replaced.

Fusebox install.jpg

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8 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Remember, Safety third! Always unhook your ground when you work on your electricals.   I lost at least five years of my lifespan learning that!

In my days as a commercial printing engineer I was working on an IR drying unit. Unbeknownst to me the engineer before me installed a safety device incorrectly. The long and the short of it. 2000v went in my Left hand and out my Right knee.

This was in England, I am an American. I told the guys there, "I't a good thing this happened to me. Otherwise it would have killed you brits.

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22 hours ago, Bryan said:

See you're using Dupli-color (can in the background). I don't know how their regular paints are but I had a heckuva time with their light gray sandable primer. It would spray out in spatters, and run easily.

Another thing that occured to me.  Temperature.  If it is less than 70 out(or you are using a spray can that is less than half full).  You might try Putting the can in a container of hot water for a few minutes.  This warms up the paint so it will atomize (Break down into particulates) better, and build pressure in the can. 

 

for runs You might also try whats called a "Tac Coat" Effectively just misting some paint on from like a foot away from the surface,  not even trying to get a full coat. just spatter the surface a bit.  Then you give it about 15 minutes to start to set up.  These little droplets will act like ladder rungs and allow you to spray on a nice thick coat and give the paint something to hang onto so it doesnt run.

 

Just a couple thoughts for you to try.

 

Best of luck!

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On 1/24/2022 at 7:41 PM, OUTFXD said:

and replaced it with a modern Blade style unit. I have never had the best of luck with crimp on connectors but I couldnt find my self solder/shrink wrap connectors, and it is getting replaced with a professionally soldered piece when the wiring harness is replaced.

Fusebox install.jpg

 

If you are having issues with crimped connections it is most likely because you are using an inferior crimper. What I see in your photo leads me to believe you are using one of these abominations:

 

619z3QmHNnL._AC_UL320_.jpg

 

The quality of the crimp is extremely poor and the amount of crimp is dependent on the operator's grip strength.

 

All wire crimps should be done with a proper ratcheting crimper:

 

71AkRljkauL._AC_UL320_.jpg

 

The crimper will not release the terminal until full crimp has been achieved and the crimp occurs in two locations on the terminal. I've wired aircraft, boats, and cars with this type crimper and never had a connection fail. You can see the dual crimp securing both the conductor and insulation in this photo taken when I installed the turn signal switch:

 

 

turn-signals-2.jpg.e0d0e67a86902b1d0a1553d471578c02.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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This last cold snap, it snowed a little bit. Turns out the pop up canopy I bought couldnt stand up to six or seven inches of snow. (I tell you, the cheap garbage they pawn off on us these days) so when I pulled it off the car, I noticed the lens on the spotlight was pushed in and appeared to be held in place with duct tape

Spotlight Ductape.jpg

Edited by OUTFXD
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Figuring the insides where all trashed I opened up the spot light and found.... a pair of socks....  Good job Sparkey! That high school bully will never find your stash of spare socks there! (edited)

 

Spotlight socks.jpg

Edited by OUTFXD
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aaaand paint it black.  along with a prime example of why you NEVER unmask until the paint has dried.

 

Sadly this is all on the inside  of the spotlight where no one will ever see it.  ]

 

But hey! I got a new pair of socks out of the deal!

Spotlight painted.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Woke up today to bright sunny skies.  It was a tad chilly but I was determined to make hay while the sun shined!

 

Decided on removing Jacquilines rear fenders.

 

obstruction 1.   I couldnt get the pilot side rear lug nuts loose. After confirming that they where indeed left handed I gave them a good zotz with the impact wrench.  De Nada. I jacked the air compressor to max pressure.  De Nada.

 

The screws that hold the hub cap.... springs where brand new and there was a new looking Cotter pin in the Hub nut.  Someone with a bigger air compressor than me had been in there!

 

I went around to the gunner side and the lugs came off with no drama.

 

I broke two sockets and two bolts getting the fender off.  Not to shabby all considered.

 

Hit the Pilot side lugs one more time with no better luck. The sun was dipping and the already chilly temp started to drop, I decided to quite while I was ahead!

Right rear fender.jpg

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Painted the fender seam and brake drum (Leaf springs Rear end and brackets to be done later Shocks are getting replaced), Put undercoating on the inner fender, frame, and spare tire well.

Right inner fender painted.jpg

Edited by OUTFXD
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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

The Pilot side fender had some cracked bondo.  I wire wheeled it back and found  a crease that  hadnt been worked at all and just covered with Bondo.  Time for some <Insert Dramatic Bass Score> REDNECK BODY WORK!

Pilot Fender Raw.jpg

Edited by OUTFXD
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