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Jacquiline, My 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe


OUTFXD
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9 hours ago, Bryan said:

That's for a universal 12VDC starter switch.   Ebay had more info than NAPA.  https://www.ebay.com/p/1630301666

Was interested in the solenoid.

Cant find the pn for the solenoid.  I have tried jumping with a 12v batterty and it just makes the clicking louder and more agressive sounding.

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in the process of waking up.  Coffee maker required maintenance so its taking longer than usual. 

 

Planning on looking for a pn on the actual solenoid. Doing the direct jump to the battery you suggested. etc

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Did you ever confirm that the solenoid/starter relay has a good ground at the case?   To be sure, I'd recommend a temporary wire under a mounting screw to an engine or battery post ground.

 

Also confirm that the starting circuit is providing full battery voltage to the solenoid/relay coil when starting.

 

 

Edited by kencombs
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15 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Did you ever confirm that the solenoid/starter relay has a good ground at the case?   To be sure, I'd recommend a temporary wire under a mounting screw to an engine or battery post ground.

 

Also confirm that the starting circuit is providing full battery voltage to the solenoid/relay coil when starting.

 

 

I have a ground Lead directly to the bolt the fastens the starter to the trans,  I used to have a ground lead to the bolt that fastens the solenoid to the inner fender.   The Solenoid lead was removed when I bought the new battery(New battery is larger than the old one.  Ground strap was no longer long enough).

 

 

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11 hours ago, SteveR said:

Red is Positive and Black is negative. In your photo, It looks like you have the Positive to the relay

I did the same thing as  Sam.  Red is HOT  black is GROUND.  Made sense to me.  when I got the car ALL the battery leads where black.

 

Tried bypassing the solenoid.  Direct jump from neg on the battery to the power terminal on the starter,  Sparky sparky.  DIdnt crank a bit.

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16 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

I did the same thing as  Sam.  Red is HOT  black is GROUND.  Made sense to me.  when I got the car ALL the battery leads where black.

 

Tried bypassing the solenoid.  Direct jump from neg on the battery to the power terminal on the starter,  Sparky sparky.  DIdnt crank a bit.

Is your starter drive gear engaged with the flywheel at rest?  Jammed in other words.  That or a bad starter is the only logical explanation that comes to mind, ASSUMING, there is/was 6v at the starter end of the jumper.

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6 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Is your starter drive gear engaged with the flywheel at rest?  Jammed in other words.  That or a bad starter is the only logical explanation that comes to mind, ASSUMING, there is/was 6v at the starter end of the jumper.

got a BRAND new bendix when the starter was rebuilt.  I ll go check.  pretty sure the gear isnt jammed (Mmmm razberry)

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Searching for a newish starter motor.  Always irritates me when sights break down car parts by trim level.  Does a 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe with a 218 6 actually have Different Mechanical Components than a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe with a 218 6?

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28 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

Searching for a newish starter motor.  Always irritates me when sights break down car parts by trim level.  Does a 1946 Plymouth Special Deluxe with a 218 6 actually have Different Mechanical Components than a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe with a 218 6?

You wouldn't think so. Rock Auto?

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On 6/20/2022 at 2:54 PM, Bryan said:

Nearest Listed in Rock Auto is $136 for 1950 Plymouth Deluxe.   49 and below not.   Don't know if 1950 and above would fit.

 

You dont happen to have a part # for that do you? I went to Rock auto but came up dry.  My internet search skills suck.

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Exactly what I was just complaining about.  They(rock auto)  have  a starter for the 1950 Deluxe with a 218 but not for the 1950 Special Deluxe with a 218

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3 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

Exactly what I was just complaining about.  They(rock auto)  have  a starter for the 1950 Deluxe with a 218 but not for the 1950 Special Deluxe with a 218

Interchange manual.  Weird, says "all interchange" under 550.

 

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I will be wildly refreshing at midnight tonight waiting for direct deposit to go through and will be ordering one shortly thereafter. 

 

I believe anything below 1955 will fit our cars.

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In some cases the original starter changed part number during the year, assembly plant or model change.  Not due to a different starter from a fit and function view, but a different source.  Important info from an inventory standpoint.

 

Now, along comes a vendor years later and blindly copies info from the original manuals.  Best source is always an interchange book, like Hollander's.

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   I posted that information on June 20th. I replaced my old Autolite SST 4001 solenoid with a Standard SS549 solenoid a few years ago. It is stamped on the back 6v. It replaces four Chrysler solenoids, one of which is a 1120518. The number in my P15 parts list book. A SS558 has a button on the bottom to remotely engage the starter, with the key on or off. I would question any wiring the PO did and wire it to the P15 wiring diagram. I could have your car running in minutes with a remote starter button and jumper wire to the coil. I’ve started engines on a pallet. You have stated that it should be simple, but with that soldered terminal block, I don’t think it’s wired correct. I can post a wiring diagram if you want. You will find the problem. Rick D.

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3 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

I would question any wiring the PO did and wire it to the P15 wiring diagram.

Already have a Professionally built Wire harness.  Waiting until I can afford other components.. Which keeps getting derailed by the starter issues.

 

3 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

I could have your car running in minutes with a remote starter button and jumper wire to the coil.

Been there done that.  Starter still drags.  That is exactly how I got her to fire up originally.

 

3 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

but with that soldered terminal block, I don’t think it’s wired correct

With you there, I replaced the Soldered block with a modern Blade style fuse block.  But no guarantee that anything is wired correctly/well, and with everything wired in one color there is no way to check.   Just cut it out and start fresh.

 

 

Agree with everything you said.  Just can only financially afford one issue at a time.  1st issue was getting her running.  Done and done. 2nd issue is getting the starting issue sorted.  Been on that one since last August.  Every time I think I got it licked...  She waits till I am away from home and the issues start  again.

 

Thanks for the advice.  and again I apologize if I come across as abrasive.  Been fighting this issue so long I get frustrated just thinking about it.

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If I didnt have bad luck I wouldnt have any luck at all.

 

In the few hours between me setting up the order for a starter, and the direct deposit clearing,  The price changed from $109 to $125 dollars and Basic Delivery went from free to $21

 

In the infamous words of  Patrick McMannus "A guy bought the last one five minutes ago"  "One day I'll be five minutes before HIM and I'll be waiting with a tire iron!"

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24 minutes ago, OUTFXD said:

If I didnt have bad luck I wouldnt have any luck at all.

 

In the few hours between me setting up the order for a starter, and the direct deposit clearing,  The price changed from $109 to $125 dollars and Basic Delivery went from free to $21

 

In the infamous words of  Patrick McMannus "A guy bought the last one five minutes ago"  "One day I'll be five minutes before HIM and I'll be waiting with a tire iron!"

On Rock Auto?  You must have got the last one.  Shows out of stock now.

Edited by Bryan
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Concerning frustration, here's my accidently knocking my light off the block while measuring stuff. Picked it up and it wouldn't work. So I decided to finish it off. Was beating the crap out of it on the concrete.  There Mr Light, now I know you won't work.

IMG_6892.JPG

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Posted (edited)

Waiting on the new starter to be delivered.  Apparently there was a delivery attempt at 9:30am Friday but the driver decided there was a security risk...... so now I have to wait until Monday and hope someone catches the driver before they return my delivery.

 

So I've been repainting the hood... like over and over.  Bugs and junk and I got impatient and started working on the hood before the paint was dry. Just couldnt get a good coat down.  Now I am having paint drying problems.  This last attempt.. the 4th or 5th I let the paint sit for a day and a half and its still Soft.  Not sticky, just soft.

Hood Respray.jpg

Edited by OUTFXD
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