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went back to points


jgreg53

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I reinstalled points in my P15 after pertronix quit on me, Now she won't start and pops back through the carb.  Any ideas would be appreciated. points set at .20 and firing order is right 

. i'm getting spark per my timing light. 

Edited by jgreg53
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find #1 cylinder the way sniper said using your thumb over the spark plug hole on # 1 cylinder for the compression stroke, and then wire the dist. with #1 being where the rotor is pointing and then follow the firing order around[clockwise] 153624.  clean the points and check the wires in the dist to be sure they are not touching anywhere if any of the insulation has worn off.      capt den

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You said the pertronix quit? Might be dumb to ask— plugs show a hot spark when grounded to motor? I know you said it’s firing through carb. Just wondering why the pertronix failed? I have those switched on some old tractors and have never seen one go bad without a contributing factor like grounding? Have had other issues that I thought was related to ignition but always was something else in the end. Just a thought.

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I have no proof of product nor experience with Pertronix. I can say that I have absolutely no interest in pulling points to install any type of breaker less system in my old Mopars.  My points are still reliable and work very well. I understand points and the condenser. The ignition system. I can troubleshoot and fix it roadside if needed. The ignition system in both my old Mopars is currently 83 years old and counting. 
 

For me? No way.  No how. No Breakerless ignition.  

Edited by keithb7
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5 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

I have no proof of product nor experience with Pentronix. I can say that I have absolutely no interest in pulling points to install any type of breaker less system in my old Mopars.  My points are still reliable and work very well. I understand points and the condenser. The ignition system. I can troubleshoot and fix it roadside if needed. The ignition system in both my old Mopars is currently 83 years old and counting. 
 

For me? No way.  No how. No Breakerless ignition.  

Totally opposite for me on my 3 mopars.

 

Pertronix module may have failed due to the ignition left on without starting.

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Everybody is entitled to their opinion... I'm familiar with  the original ignition system used on the old vehicles I own ,why change? Engines run fine. Parts and maintenance procedures agree with the manuals. Keeps it simple for me.?

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38 minutes ago, T120 said:

Everybody is entitled to their opinion... I'm familiar with  the original ignition system used on the old vehicles I own ,why change? Engines run fine. Parts and maintenance procedures agree with the manuals. Keeps it simple for me.?

Ive been reading testimonals for a long time about Pertronix etc. Im sure they work. And why not give it a try when everything else has gone to hell? good Lord we use to get out the gals nail file and clean up points. head to the beach and ask when dinner was ready

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8 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

I reinstalled points in my P15 after pertronix quit on me, Now she won't start and pops back through the carb.  Any ideas would be appreciated. points set at .20 and firing order is right 

. i'm getting spark per my timing light. 

You need to confirm where the rotor is pointing when cyl  1 is on compression.  Just because the mark lines up with the pointer does not automatically mean it's on compression TDC.

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Let me get this pertronix thing out of the way first.  there are some people that have been running for years on pertronix with no issues. There are also some people where it failed immediately. Mine failed after about 4 years. Ended up blowing my muffler out. I am testimony that pertronix is NOT either working or not working... At least in my experience. My Meadowbrook ran, but it ran like crap when that thing failed. It didn't just die. Anyway, I didn't mind trying it and like I said it worked for about 4 years before it failed. I went back to points.

 

When I went back to points, I had the same problem that you have: the car would not start. I could not figure it out.  I mean, the car would run no matter where the distributor was turned, which is a testimony to these old flatheads. Mine will run with a loose carburetor and a spark plug wire off!  Anyway this is what I had to do to get it started:

 

If your timing is supposed to be let's say 5° before top dead center, and you can actually read the guage, set it there.  Then take a test light to the coil side of the points and turn your distributor until that test light lights up.  Tighten down the distributor. The car should start. Then time it with a vacuum gauge just to be sure.  Also make sure that none of your wires inside the distributor have any bare spots that are touching the walls or touching on their way out of the distributor, if they are you have just grounded out the distributor and your car will not start.  Double check that for sure before doing everything else.  I am happily running points again in my Meadowbrook and will never go back to pertronix.  And you don't have to use a nail file on points. You use a business card saturated with rubbing alcohol to take the dirt off, using a nail file just wears down the points even more.

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I believe he is referring to a paper card as it is plenty abrasive. I have been under the opinion for years that when the points fail, make a switch. My local Napa does not have a good quality blue streak anymore. Since the points are currently working in my truck, I have not switched to pertronix, just figured that one day there will be a need. I think it is the last point ignition that I have. I am very surprised with the disappoint and many prefer points. Good conversation, thanks!  

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even...if....given......

 

that,   the pertronix is a workable unit and basically trouble free....there is always a chance it will let you down one day.  The problem is not so great if you fail to proceed (Rolls Royce term) in your home town/area and can recover the vehicle simple enough.  The true problem is the unavailability of the pertronix at a big box store to get you rolling again if this happens on the road.  You stuck with long distance towing and awaiting for the replacement component via mail order.  So you plan for retrofit distributor in the trunk for limp in or carry a spare ignitor.  It is all about being prepared.  

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The contacts in now days made China points are made with fusible lead contacts.

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6 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

The contacts in now days made China points are made with fusible lead contacts.

 

yes and unfortunate....most all of this stuff is produced as cheap as humanly possible with the highest retail humanly possible....with the little engine I just put together, the points there are not highest quality either....found brand name for sale, good price NOS and bought all 7 sets less than 1/2 price with shipping included.  Shop around, buy for the future....

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20 minutes ago, jgreg53 said:

Well, I turned the rotor 180 degrees and she started

 Motor was vibrating. The screw holding the points stripped out and allowed the points to bounce around. Done for the night.

Well at least it's running and you know what's left to finish up!

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