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Buying a 6 volt battery soon for my 48 DeSoto


MarcDeSoto

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The Optima 6 volt battery costs over $200, but I found that O'Reilly's has a 6 volt battery for just $102 Group 1 and it even looks like the old batteries with separate cell caps for adding water.  I saw that O'Reilly's application chart says this battery does not fit a 48 DeSoto, but does fit a 48 Dodge and 48 Chrysler Windsor.  but the years only go back to 1950 for DeSoto, so it's just an error.  Has anyone bought one of these?  

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fleet-heavy-duty/super-start-fleet-heavy-duty-battery-group-size-1/ssbe/1j?q=6+volt+auto+battery&pos=5

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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No but thanks for the info.  In the past I always measured the height, width and length needed to fit in the battery box (or space available) and orientation of the terminals + or - on left or right end on top. Then just took a small tape measure to the battery store and measured, getting the highest Amp battery I could.

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3 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

The Optima 6 volt battery costs over $200, but I found that O'Reilly's has a 6 volt battery for just $102 Group 1 and it even looks like the old batteries with separate cell caps for adding water.  I saw that O'Reilly's application chart says this battery does not fit a 48 DeSoto, but does fit a 48 Dodge and 48 Chrysler Windsor.  but the years only go back to 1950 for DeSoto, so it's just an error.  Has anyone bought one of these?  

 

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/fleet-heavy-duty/super-start-fleet-heavy-duty-battery-group-size-1/ssbe/1j?q=6+volt+auto+battery&pos=5

Screen shot of the Oreilly battery info

Oreilly battery.jpg

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One thing to keep in mind, batteries have a date code on them.  Depending on the situation where you are the battery might have been sitting for sometime.  We go thru a lot of lead/acid batteries where I work and we will not warranty a battery that has been sitting for more than 6 months.  My advice is to pick teh battery with the newest date code, if you have a choice.

 

https://batteryglobe.com/how-to-read-car-battery-date-codes/

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There are two battery warehouses here in town.  One evidence, one Interstate.

 

I have been buying lead acid group 1 batteries from the Exide place.  They sell seconds which have cosmetic damage to the outside of the battery. Scratches to the case, or the label or they are 6 months old and marked as a second.  They come with a 1 year full replacement warranty, then are pro rated for 3 additional years.. The one I replaced last September was 7 years old.  The receipt was in the glove box for 54 dollars.  The replacement was 76.00 as it was not a second. It has a 1 year free rlacement and 5 years pro rated deal.  Take a look for a warehouse in your area.  I believe they are 550 cca rated.  Why pay full retail if you can locate alternatives?

Edited by greg g
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I used to buy 6v batteries from Napa, then I tried the Optima red top. Only bought 1 and it is still going strong 7 years now. 800cca compared to 640cca, my truck cranks over noticeably faster compared to the previous batteries I used. I don't care much for the looks of it but it sits under the floor in the truck and I can pick it up with 1 hand so no issue there. If I ever need to replace it I will buy another. 

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The important factor is keeping these 6 volt regular acid batteries fully charged.  I have a pulse battery charger which is a trickle charger and they have kept my battery work for over 6-8 years. Pull the caps and check the water level, but only refill with distilled water.

 

Keep the cable tight to the posts and also cost the post with a battery spray to prevent corrosion build up.

 

If the battery is in the car and it is a real cold environment and by this I mean upper northern state where you get the low to minus cold weather then might want to store in your house in a cellar or in a place where it is warm along with the trickle charger.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

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I doubt anyone here has data to prove that one battery this much better than any other. We generally speak from our own experience. I hear good and bad things about Optima batteries. I have no experience or proof of performance. I have not invested twice the price of a typical 6V tractor battery, to buy an Optima yet.

 

I have seen data logging equipment used on large heavy earthmoving equipment that use flooded acid batteries. Battery voltages were recorded every day. Each time the large diesel engine was flashed up, of course the battery voltage would drop. Then the alternator would charge it right back up to the maximum voltage again.  Over weeks and months, years, recorded voltage data was extrapolated into a graph. You could literally watch the maximum voltage that the battery could take,  slowly drop.  Over a long time, eventually the batteries would not charge up enough to crank over the big diesel engine. I am taking 2 years or so worth of recorded voltages. I suspect the reason for this is plate sulfation.  I am no expert. The build up of lead sulphate occurs over time. A result of the chemical reaction going on in the battery.  Sure sulfer releases off the battery cell plates when it gets re-charged. Most of it. Not all. Slowly it builds up. Slowly degrading the battery's ability to create maximum  volts. Keep in mind 6.02V measured across a 6V battery, means its at 50% capacity.

 

One of the quickest ways to ruin a battery, is to leave it sit during the off season. Letting its slowly drop its voltage. The plates sulfate bad, and it won't come off when you recharge it in the spring. You are left with a severely degraded battery. No matter if you recharge it, it flops on its face when the starter calls for maximum amperage from it. It may not happen in year one, but each year its quality is degraded. 3 winters later, junk.

 

I keep a trickle charger on all my batteries all winter and summer.  Year round, I keep them freshly charged.  My $95 6V tractor battery is 5 years old now. No issues at all. My two 12V Costco batteries in my 1998 Ram diesel truck are screwed.  They are not yet 3 years old. Why? I had a slow battery drain going on after the ignition switch was turned off. I don't drive the truck very often. It sat and slowly sulfated. Draining the battery all the time. I troubleshot the problem with my clamp-style ammeter. I stopped the amp drain. Too late. Those batteries won't take a real good charge any more.  As soon as we hot -10, I guarantee it won't start.

 

I see all kinds of off shore made batteries being sold around here. "Canadian Proof" batteries.  "Polar Batteries". They like to name them after something cold is seems. To imply tough colder winter performance. Made in China. Do yourself a favour and buy a quality made in the USA or Made in Canada battery.  Do your research. Pay extra for something decent. You'll have a better chance it will last, and keep your local battery company in business.  Invest in a little trickle charger. Again, get a quality one. Keep your quality made battery fresh and you'll be fine.

 

I found this in a google search:

 

Car Battery Brands

Most aftermarket car batteries sold in the U.S. are made by three companies that build them for retailers: Johnson Controls, which supplies more than half of the market; Stryten; and East Penn. They are sold under various names and built to the specifications of retailers, so performance can vary. Most stores will test, install, and match a battery to your car’s needs. 

 

All batteries will eventually wear out. AGM (absorbent glass mat) will take a good re-charge when they drain down very low. They resist sufation very well. Great for seasonal use. Seek out a made in USA 6V AGM battery maybe. That's a good investment!

Edited by keithb7
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group one is barely borderline for the a flathead.....group 2 is the better battery...recommendations.....first see what is available to you in your area.....most important to me with a battery is CAN IT BE WARRANTED IF OUT OF MY AREA.....I  had an experience where I had to buy a battery several states away while on temporary assignment.  The place I had bought the battery I drove there with had no stores anywhere near.  I not only had to buy a battery, I had to pay the core charge as I would deal with the tits up battery when I got home.  After some back and forth with the manager.....I was refunded the battery core and the cost of the battery that failed.   It could well have gone the other way.....lesson learned....stick with a supplier with a huge retail chain outlet for quick and easy service.  

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3 hours ago, Sniper said:

One thing to keep in mind, batteries have a date code on them.  Depending on the situation where you are the battery might have been sitting for sometime.  We go thru a lot of lead/acid batteries where I work and we will not warranty a battery that has been sitting for more than 6 months.  My advice is to pick teh battery with the newest date code, if you have a choice.

 

https://batteryglobe.com/how-to-read-car-battery-date-codes/

You mean like this one?  Brand new, used to hear the engine knocking..then sat since the late 1980s.

IMG_4599.JPG

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I have used Farm and Fleet batteries for years but the last one I bought for my daily failed after 2 years. Then the replacement was dead when I installed it.  In talking to others there that day they had the same issues. So I bought an Advance AGM for the new daily and when the battery on the 1980 failed I splurged and got an Optima.  Time will tell if that was dumb or not.  My Plymouth still has a lead acid from Farm and Fleet that is about three years old. The one before thar lasted eight years.

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Optimas are great, especially mouted in the trunk where batteries belong. They look wrong to me in a stock or restored car. Too modern looking for these old dogs. My 49 is getting a 12 volt optima but it will be hidden away in the trunk. Good luck, that Desoto is going to be a nice ride.

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I always hear you gotta have a battery tender or a trickle charger. My cars all sit for 5 months of winter with the battery just unhooked. I still get 6-8 years out of them. I think the first one in my truck was 9 years old when I replaced it. It currently has an optima but mostly because I got a good deal on it for $100

 

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Group "1"  batteries are great for the little Voltswagon Beetles....

For a MoPar flathead...it will do the job just enough.

A group "2" battery will give piece of mind with extra cranking power.

Needed when a case of vapor lock occurs or a similar situation happens.

IMO they last longer too.

Optima's are great  powerful batteries...ugly but lots of starting power.

You can buy a proper looking battery box to put it in if you like....then you cannot tell it from a wet cell battery.

 

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Is the above battery different from this battery?  They have different part numbers and the one on Amazon says its a starting battery.  I wonder what the difference is?

 

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00099HVN6?pf_rd_r=BMEHZTFD0JX1J8WFT4AA&pf_rd_p=8fe9b1d0-f378-4356-8bb8-cada7525eadd&pd_rd_r=cb6edd9c-b520-492e-a01f-33ced81e177b&pd_rd_w=pQU1B&pd_rd_wg=z1aIG&ref_=pd_gw_unk

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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1 hour ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Is the above battery different from this battery?  They have different part numbers and the one on Amazon says its a starting battery.  I wonder what the difference is?

 

 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00099HVN6?pf_rd_r=BMEHZTFD0JX1J8WFT4AA&pf_rd_p=8fe9b1d0-f378-4356-8bb8-cada7525eadd&pd_rd_r=cb6edd9c-b520-492e-a01f-33ced81e177b&pd_rd_w=pQU1B&pd_rd_wg=z1aIG&ref_=pd_gw_unk

 

There are two types of batteries, starting and deep cycle.

"Starting" batteries give you the surge of energy to get an engine started but they don't take well to being drained to a low charge. They re-charge quickly if not run down.

"Deep Cycle" batteries don't perform as well in starting because they are made to take a steady load over a long time. They are slower to re-charge but they willingly take to being drawn down. They are used in applications like RV battery banks or solar.

There are batteries which are built as a compromise between the two but they really don't do either job well.

Optima batteries are AGM type which is about as good as you can get in a lead acid battery. What sets them apart from other AGM types is their construction and the ability to mount them in anyway besides straight up and down because they are not vented and therefore don't leak.

The red top Optima is a starting battery and a good one. If you had one battery to swap between several cars that would be my choice because they are compact and easy to move. A daily driver might be better with a Tractor Supply 6 volt. Or if you sell a car once in a while, I put the battery I use in my daily driver in the sold car and get a new one for it.

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Another great advantage with red top Optima it doesn't need to be mounted upright. In my other non-Mopar car, it's on its side under floor board.

As mentioned above, very powerful, cranks flathead V8 for a long time

.

You can also stack 2 side by side in parallel, crank all day and presto, you now have an fashionable electric car ;) 

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Is all that negative stuff Scotty says on Youtube about Optima batteries just bunk then?  He says they used to be good when they were made in the USA, but when they were bought out and moved to Mexico, the quality went way down and the prices went way up.  He said you can't trickle charge them, you can't test them without a $900 battery tester, and other bad stuff.  Scotty is the wild man who yells at you on his Youtube channel.  

 

 

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one voice in the wilderness spewing about foul things...for every one person you will find who speaks ill of Optima (besides higher cost) you will find 25 or better speaking highly.....many you tubers are there for self glory...majority are not worth watching...and while this is just my opinion....it has to be every bit as much creditable as his......(sound of rimshot)

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My guess would be they had some issues when they transitioned manufacturing plants and those are long resolved. My 6v one has been trouble free for about the 5 seasons I've had it. 

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