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Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.


Bryan

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Speaking of solvents, it's getting thin out there for options.  What are the preferred options?  I used to use MEK, but that's not available any more.  Acetone flashes too fast for me.  Not sure lacquer thinner works all that well.  Mineral spirits, well it's around.

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4 hours ago, Sniper said:

Speaking of solvents, it's getting thin out there for options.  What are the preferred options?  I used to use MEK, but that's not available any more.  Acetone flashes too fast for me.  Not sure lacquer thinner works all that well.  Mineral spirits, well it's around.

I've been using brake cleaner on about everything. 

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Looking at Andy Bernbaums $65 starter bendix for a 48 Dodge and Rock Auto's $85 bendix WVE 2K1089 for a 51-52 Dodge. I like the look of the gear on the RA bendix.  According to Hollander Exchange book they should fit.  Wonder if anybody has experience on these as far as quality?

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  • Bryan changed the title to Cleaning passages - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

Cold and windy outside. Cleaning main oil galley and side galley with shotgun/rifle cleaning brushes.  12 gauge wouldn't fit in main, had to use a 20.   At some point I'll have to pressure wash again. Brass brushes are leaving small bristles.  Also chasing all threads. Got the front done. Stopped to get warm and eat. First oil galley pic is before cleaning.  Passage is still rough.

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Got all the threaded bolt holes in the motor front chased, plus the ones for the intake/exhaust manifold and tappet covers. Got too cold and windy, even in the garage.  Was looking into the water passages. Did a little cleaning work with a round file from the top and sides of the block. Was very careful not to drop the file in the motor. Also careful not to mistake cylinder head bolt holes for the water jacket holes in the top of the block.

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Got my REMY remanufactured starter on Friday. Got to check today if it is the same fit as old. Plus somehow check it. Don't have a 6V battery or charger at the moment. Spent enough this month.

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Finally, except for the bottom, got all the threads cleaned and chased, water holes on top of block cleaned, core plug openings cleaned, and knocked around with a small round file in the water passages between cylinders.  Also cleaned the tappet bores and oil holes with shotgun bore brush. At one point I'm going to dip it in vinegar. Takes too much evaporust.  Keeps knocking the pics out of order when you post.IMG_6310.JPG.b3660b99d6f5aa65930b6b21b5088b47.JPG

 

 

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Edited by Bryan
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1 hour ago, Sniper said:

Looking good

Thanks. I have the bottom to do and then I'll deburr the block and clean the ports up. One thing with the gun brushes, it leaves tiny brass bristles. I'll have to pressure wash it again at one point, but would have to anyway after the grinding. I looked at the water jacket areas. They are all around the ports and the valve areas.  Can't take too much off in the ports, just gasket matching and cleaning off edges.

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18 hours ago, Bryan said:

Thanks. I have the bottom to do and then I'll deburr the block and clean the ports up. One thing with the gun brushes, it leaves tiny brass bristles. I'll have to pressure wash it again at one point, but would have to anyway after the grinding. I looked at the water jacket areas. They are all around the ports and the valve areas.  Can't take too much off in the ports, just gasket matching and cleaning off edges.

If you're finding remnants of the brass bristles, you might consider buying a brush kit made specifically for engine cleaning.  I bought one made by Moroso (I think) and bought it off Amazon (I think).  I seem to recall it was about $40, and it had quite a variety of brush diameters and lengths and they are all very stiff, scratchy brushes made for scraping off crud.  I haven't cleaned my block yet, but I've cleaned quite a few other parts and haven't noticed any bristles coming off.

 

As for solvents to use, I bought a couple of gallons of mineral spirits, which I will use to clean my block, and I also have used a LOT of brake parts cleaner on a variety of engine parts and other parts.  I like the CRC Brakleen, as it is not flammable and doesn't evaporate as quickly as others, which means I don't have to continually spray it onto/into whatever I'm cleaning to make up for what's evaporating, and it makes it less prone to chilling the parts and producing condensation, which can cause flash rust.  I believe they even sell the stuff in large buckets that are more economical and keep you from having to buy it as often.

Edited by Matt Wilson
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More deburring work and port cleaning today.  A lonnng day.  Deburred around the oil holes in the tappet galley, the fuel pump opening, around the tops of the tappet holes (tappet hole edges with 150 sandpaper and my finger), little bumps next to the side of the tappets in some places.   Cleaned up the ports and somewhat matched them to the gaskets after comparing the gaskets with the intake and exhaust manifolds.  I chickened out and didn't want to remove a lot of metal, didn't know how the ports internally are connected to the face. I know there is a LOT of water jacket open space around the valves and intake/exhaust ports.  I removed just enough metal to make the edges even with the port surfaces further in.  Worked on the valve areas too, but just a minimal toe remove sharp edges. The valve seats are sitting on a narrow ledge of metal in some places, didn't want to undermine that by grinding.   

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6 minutes ago, Matt Wilson said:

If you're finding remnants of the brass bristles, you might consider buying a brush kit made specifically for engine cleaning.   

 

As for solvents to use, I bought a couple of gallons of mineral spirits, which I will use to clean my block, and I also have used a LOT of brake parts cleaner on a variety of engine parts and other parts.  I like the CRC Brakleen, as it is not flammable and doesn't evaporate as quickly as others, which means I don't have to continually spray it onto/into whatever I'm cleaning to make up for what's evaporating, and it makes it less prone to chilling the parts and producing condensation, which can cause flash rust.  I believe they even sell the stuff in large buckets that are more economical and keep you from having to buy it as often.

Too late, I done did the wild thing with the brushes.   Yep, I use the CRC also..have about 12 cans of it. Works good but now and then I get a can that runs out of propellant with the can about 1/4 left.

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  • Bryan changed the title to Block deburring - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

Deburred the block today.   Cleaned off ridges on the driver's side of the block. Also inside the block.  Plenty of sharp edges. Also use a wire brush on a drill to clean the outside a little more. 

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Haven't heard of that but I'll look it up.  Just doing the basics. Don't get me started. ?. After working near the oil pour tube I was wondering what the entire engine outside would look like ground smooth and painted.  Wish I had the money for some Ross custom pistons, but naw. I'll probably drive it on Sunday, the wife to the library, some local car meets. Just didn't want any loose casting edges coming off, I did find that the inner main oil passage to the galley are exactly the same size as my fine rat tail file.  

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On the inside I used a dremel grinder on the casting ribs. On the rest I just did enough to barely remove the roughness of casting, not even a bevel edge.  On tappet holes I used 150 grit sandpaper and my finger tip. On the outside/inside edge of the main bearings I used the end of an Arkansas stone.  Also on the inside edge of the oil pan.  Again, just enough to smooth it, not create a beveled edge.

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On 4/14/2022 at 10:28 AM, Bryan said:

Just didn't want any loose casting edges coming off

 

You know, that could have been an issue.  Years ago I had an 87 Dodge Diplomat I had swapped a mild 360 into.  Some how a bit of casting flash broke off and got into the oil pump gears, locked it up and twisted the end of the oil pump drive right off.  Mind you , this was in the early 2000's so here it was some 20 years after the block was cast that is decided to break off.  You never know, lol.

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I'm also looking for anything that might have caused the piston skirt to chip. That's why I was smoothing down those notches in the bottom of the cylinders.  I might put the crank and a test piston without rings in both front and back to see how the deck height is looking and what might have been hitting. Should have done this in the beginning but didn't think, and it was a gooey mess.

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Today finished chasing the bottom pan threads, and was cleaning the oil passages to the mains with a rat tail file. Not enlarging them, just enough to get the crud out and make it slick.   Was doing other stuff and didn't get to the oil passages to the cam bearings. With that I'll have to be REAL careful. Those passages have threads at the beginning. 

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  • Bryan changed the title to Cleaning oil passages - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

Cleaned side oil passages to cam bearings and oil relief valve passages.  Cold outside in SC.   Going back out after hot tea break to do a few measurements. Wife came out in the yard to see a turtle coming up from the pond.  Used my Arkansas stone checking for high spots on the bottom of the engine.

 

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Edited by Bryan
Add pics - done for today
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Yesterday I checked the new starter dimensions against the original to make sure it would fit. Just need to test. Since I was pooped from traveling that morning, I just cleaned the garage up and sorted/cleaned up tools and put unneeded ones back in the work shed.  I also collected the valve parts from the old block and set them aside.  Really even on the new block I only need to keep the valve spring retainers. I bought new valves, springs, guides and clips.  Now that it's warmed up heading outside to finish engine work.

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Deburred the rest of the crankcase. Worked on the ports near the valves, again.  Trying to use Evaporust just on the lower part of the water jacket. The rest was pretty clean..

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  • Bryan changed the title to Found my camshaft! - Pulling motor on 1948 Dodge.

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