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Engine stand


Doug&Deb

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Well, if you bolt the flywheel and bell housing to the engine then bolt the engine stand to the bell housing I suppose that would work, if it didn't nose over and put a divot in the concrete.

 

When I bought the core 230 from French Lake they built a wooden cradle that was screwed to a small pallet that would be fine for a test fire.  Maybe run a ratchet strap around the engine and pallet to hold them together.  If you needed to run a radiator I suppose you could extent the rails out the front to cobble up a mount for the radiator.

 

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I am probably wrong,but I just don't trust engine stands with inline 6's when it comes to starting and running them.

 

I would try to keep it simple by using a couple of long wooden blocks with angle iron bolted to them using BIG wood screws. I am talking screws with a diameter of a half inch or so. Use the angle iron to connect the ends with the runners and keep the base pan as close to the floor as possible. Use something like the gas tank from a push mower to start and run the engine that you can bolt to the stand so if the stand moves around,the gas tank moves with it.

 

IF possible start the engine in the driveway,and ALWAYS have a fire extinguisher handy.

 

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engine stand and test stand are two different animals....the test stand you are referring to is often constructed at home by the owner....finding a universal one that would be plug and play for an inline MoPar six I am sure you are not going to find available.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I reinforce Plymouthy Adams reply. I spent many an hour this winter in search of test run stands to work with my Plymouth V8 so I could have the tranny mounted and found nothing ready made. Never ran across a single one for inliners. I finally began building my own.1833037355_teststand.jpg.f752dc18f608ba05933e50238b64d658.jpg

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    My suggestion would be to build a dedicated dolly for your Chrysler product flathead. it'll be helpful for storage, shipping, and test running.

   

    When I got ready to run my engine, we placed the whole assembly on wood blocks, clearing the wheels. It was 'teamed up' with a test stand that normally 'entertained' 426 Hemis and Big Block Chevys.

   

    Pictured below is my '90 DeVal getting ready for a little fun!

 

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while neither a flathead or V bent....this test stand is also just as important and an all in one package on wheels......I featured this on another thread but a self contained test stand nonetheless.   I  have instrumentation to monitor oil, temp and vacuum, battery, radiator for cooling and small 1.4 gallon fuel tank, engine choke and high idle control that twist lock in position and proper PSI electric pump....the big wheels roll effortlessly and are the height that a cherry picker easily rolls beneath the cradle (well, mine does) and are important facts to consider on your build.    The wheel skate seen is for the rod change shifter when attached to the tranny on the stand....not needed for test run...but needed in my mock up.

 

 

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Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Call me crazy, but I test ran my engine in the vehicle with coolant and proper road test with rpm and load on the engine for proper break in which included several heat cycles and head bolt retorques. 2k miles later, still running great.

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1 hour ago, DJK said:

Call me crazy, but I test ran my engine in the vehicle with coolant and proper road test with rpm and load on the engine for proper break in which included several heat cycles and head bolt retorques. 2k miles later, still running great.

same here for the most part except with this set up room to tweak is not great, the fitting to the cradle which is the test stand allow for the making of needed mods to install the headers, the larger dual carbs, fabricated the twin choke levers and fabricate the new induction and air box meant for an entirely different car.  The battery is in the exact same position as if in the car so the cold air could be fitted.  If this was a stock setup in the stock frame....I would run the engine sitting on the very heavy oil pan which is  cast aluminum as there is where the 4 sp transmission and differential reside.  Different circumstances call for different approaches.  

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To further the above I will post a couple pictures as the result of the test fit on this stand....if you visit the forums supporting this car and look at the manner most do the install...it is always with a slam of the hammer to the cradle, body and even the dimpling of the header pipe itself.  Test fit proved that the install need not be done as such but did reveal that a cut to mimic and make symmetrical the cradle, then it will clear the header nicely....while the header was not touching it was not at all a comfortable margin in my eyes.  The actual car with cradle installed is shown here along with the cut and bend/weld of the cradle metal.  Even without the header install the fuel line was slated to be move out of the exhaust area anyway...you can see the not so safe position and the ever less safe plastic fuel filter the PO has in place....

 

lot of small problems or items of interest can be detected and corrected quickly and easily on a test stand verse install in body.  Test stand is not for everyone but if you have the time and means to make one they are great assets.  The one above will be fitted with yet a second engine almost immediately when this engine is taken from here and put into the car.  I have 5 of these cars on hand...(they breed inside a dark barn it seems)  The other tube is under high pressure for the suspension...

 

Am hoping another member here will post a picture of his engine and test stand currently in use to support his build

 

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Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I understand running the rebuilt engine in the car but in my case this is a spare engine. I’m probably going to transplant it into my ear eventually. I’ve never rebuilt an engine before so I’d rather find out my mistakes before I get to that point. The engine currently in the car was rebuilt 8000 miles ago and it wasn’t a smooth process. If we could have run it on a stand we could have avoided the problems that we had. 

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IMHO, A run in engine stand like @Plymouthy Adams is the cats meow. Many of us know Nicks garage. He breaks  in a engine (cam) on  the dyno.

Just pointing out that expensive 426 hemi, 440 big blocks are broke in on stationary stands and not in the car.

A home made engine run stand  is no dyno, but a very valuable tool in the home shop.

 

With PA engine stand  is specialty built for a certain purpose. One certain engine with certain size limitations. I understand.

I know PA has many interest and will not only want to test one size motor. Most would build something more versatile for more options.

 

 

@Plymouthy Adams is that thing potty trained yet?  ???

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my stand is the very cradle to the 5 cars I have yet in inventory here both automatic or manual transmission...they will range from various CC displacement but yes...the basic block is one size fits all...from 850cc through 1390 cc and a host of carburation options, axle outputs and exhaust option and well you get the picture but yes is single car design.  Sweet part is the cradle has not been dinked with in a manner of welds, drill holes and cuts that one cannot pop this unit into a car body should a collision renders one useless....the cradles many never retain if they part out a body due to the very size and stripping it of the suspension is a little bit of work also.

 

Potty trained...you bet your sweet bippy it is....this series never got turbo charged though...that was next generation...

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I have built tight compact engine dollies that also are used to test run my engines...the most recent is this one..

A simple welded up compact very strong and easy to move dolly test stand for a 413 big dodge six.

Just a bolt on battery/ gauge fuel supply tower. Radiator bolts on to the front quickly.

Plug in the heavy duty flex pipes to large quiet mufflers ( got to hear the internals of the engine)

Solid no rocking of engine upon revs etc..

I made the same type of dollies for the 23"/25" straight "8's" and the big Moly  Block engines.

Remove the radiator and bell housings for tight compact storage too.

Welding required for fast assembly.

I use medium heavy 3" channel.

 

 

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Edited by Dodgeb4ya
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Thank you Tim...one more under my belt!

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  • 2 weeks later...

That belongs in a MoPar flathead engine museum?

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