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no head lights


Ash84

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11 hours ago, DJK said:

You need O gauge cables for battery and starter relay to starter with 6v system also good clean grounds.

I was thinking grabbing new cable so I will look for those and starer relay it gets red hot at times when it wants to turn over slow. That be why some times it starts in one crank and other times it reeeeal slow. So O cable it is.

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Slow spinning starters drawing a lot of current  can usually be traced to worn armature bushings or armature shaft.This can allow the armature to come into contact with the field shoes  when the field is engaged and drag against them the friction causing reduced speed.

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13 hours ago, greg g said:

Slow spinning starters drawing a lot of current  can usually be traced to worn armature bushings or armature shaft.This can allow the armature to come into contact with the field shoes  when the field is engaged and drag against them the friction causing reduced speed.

Ok so sounds like it's time for a rebuild or new starter 

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ONLY time to rebuild if the tests measurements taken prove that there is a problem...else...guessing.....you could simply have a voltage drop causing problems but then again, this is a test you would have to make also.....good testing habits allow you to spend your money more wisely and get you down the road faster.

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On 9/8/2021 at 12:32 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

ONLY time to rebuild if the tests measurements taken prove that there is a problem...else...guessing.....you could simply have a voltage drop causing problems but then again, this is a test you would have to make also.....good testing habits allow you to spend your money more wisely and get you down the road faster.

OK so do you mean voltage drop from starter? and how do I test that. and testing measurements is done a micrometer ? 

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quick check is a visual inspection. are battery terminal clean? are connections tight? are the cables the right gauge? 

most auto supply stores can do a load test on the battery and starter.

Edited by LazyK
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sorry I did not reply earlier....to avoid a long long typed narrative....look to the internet for the manner voltage drop tests are done.  It is amazingly simple but yet the most effective means of finding issues.  I will add that an inductive amp meter is also great diagnostic tool to have on hand.  

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On 9/10/2021 at 12:49 PM, LazyK said:

quick check is a visual inspection. are battery terminal clean? are connections tight? are the cables the right gauge? 

most auto supply stores can do a load test on the battery and starter.

Battery is good and clean just discovered the battery installed on this car is a 8v not 6v would that cause issues like blown head light or something?

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59 minutes ago, Ash84 said:

Battery is good and clean just discovered the battery installed on this car is a 8v not 6v would that cause issues like blown head light or something?

And can the generator charge if running a 8v battery while driving with head lights on 

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I got it narrowed down to the just the head lights not working by using a test light both plugs other than I think some one re wierd the lights one point time cause on socket the high beams on and on the other the low beams on and vise versa when I hit the dimmer. But I'm still skeptical about head lights cause the were replaced 7 years ago so I wonder what made them go bad. I will find out  thanks all. 

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Coming to that point you should have three wires feeding the circuits.  You should be able to determine them with a test light.  There will be 1 for park which should only be hot when light switch is in first notch.  When pulled out to the second notch, it should be dead and one of the other terminals should be hot, the third will be hot and 5he other off depending on foot switch position.  From here there should be a wire out to each side of the car.  The high and low doesn't really matter as long as they both go to the same terminal on the lights.  So each of the terminals. Should have one in by position from source,  one for park, one for low beam and one for highbeam, the each one will have two out one each going right and 1 each going left.

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10 hours ago, greg g said:

Coming to that point you should have three wires feeding the circuits.  You should be able to determine them with a test light.  There will be 1 for park which should only be hot when light switch is in first notch.  When pulled out to the second notch, it should be dead and one of the other terminals should be hot, the third will be hot and 5he other off depending on foot switch position.  From here there should be a wire out to each side of the car.  The high and low doesn't really matter as long as they both go to the same terminal on the lights.  So each of the terminals. Should have one in by position from source,  one for park, one for low beam and one for highbeam, the each one will have two out one each going right and 1 each going left.

Ok that's some good info, is the source your referring the cluster Infront of radiator or the switch. 

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The source for the parking lights is notch 1 on the headlight switch as it goes from the HL switch to the block, the second notch goes from the HL switch to the dimmer stomp switch then out to the block, one wire for low beam, one for high beam.  The high beam line out also has a wire that goes to the HIGH BEAM repeater indicator on the dash board.

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17 hours ago, Ash84 said:

I got it narrowed down to the just the head lights not working by using a test light both plugs other than I think some one re wierd the lights one point time cause on socket the high beams on and on the other the low beams on and vise versa when I hit the dimmer. But I'm still skeptical about head lights cause the were replaced 7 years ago so I wonder what made them go bad. I will find out  thanks all. 

That 8v battery gives you brighter lights but is supposed to shorten bulb life

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11 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

That 8v battery gives you brighter lights but is supposed to shorten bulb life

Ok so then it might be my culprit well I'll keep it on there don't plan on running much at night if it doesn't again time to replace it. I would think the generator would have a hard time keeping it Chared with lights on. 

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4 hours ago, greg g said:

The source for the parking lights is notch 1 on the headlight switch as it goes from the HL switch to the block, the second notch goes from the HL switch to the dimmer stomp switch then out to the block, one wire for low beam, one for high beam.  The high beam line out also has a wire that goes to the HIGH BEAM repeater indicator on the dash board.

Ok that help me narrow that down. The high beam indicator is wired wrong to it comes on at the first notch . Thanks for the help makes it alot easier and I'm not burning fusesor bulbs 

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Try drawing it out on a piece of paper.  Sometimes that helps visualize 

the path from power (the battery) through the switch to load, the lights, then to ground to complete the circle.

 

You know the headlight switch has one in and Two outs one that goes to the terminal block, and one that goes to the foot switch.  You know the foot switch with one in and two out, one that fires low beams and one that fires high bms and has a jumper to the dash indicator.

 These also feed the terminal block . You know the park splits for left and right lamps and the lamps go to ground where they attach to body sheet metal. Low beam goes to the block and splits to the lamp as does high beam, and both lights go to ground through the third terminal on the lamp wired to the body sheet metal.  So the head lamps have two in and one out to ground.  Like plumbing but the leaks can be more dangerous...

 No if you have signals plumbed into the fixture that can be dealt with separately. Then you will have a wireind schematic for the next time or the next caretaker.

Edited by greg g
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  • 10 months later...

Morning all I could use some help please if someone could please so while adjusting my headlights yesterday the left one fell out and broke and it started to smoke a lil bit went got new headlight reassembled it but now no power to it I also switched it with other side and it works I used test light and I am getting power to both sides but head light still won't come on I replaced wires going to terminal block as well as 3 prong connector and still nothing what do you think it could be I would greatly appreciate it thanks 

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seeing as these wires are not stock, but crimp on connectors...any of them could well be a suspect/issue as the appearance of the crimp looks to be from each sind and not a full compression of the lug body with a crisp deep dimple...I make this statement in general as many do not use/own a quality crimping tool say like a Klein...the ones that come in the BBS kits are nowhere up to task of a quality crimp.  As for the jumper, good known ground to good ground wired of the head light bucket if jumped to there from the 3 prong or to the 3 prong lead that is ground...

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Also those wires are to thin for proper operation if the car is still 6volt.  A 6v high beam is typically 40 watts so 6.5 amps.  Wiring charts you need a minimum of 12 gauge, the picture seems to be 16.  If you are powering both high beams the wire needs to be 10 gauge till it splits where 12 ga is good.  6v circuits depend on flow.  Each connection, each foot or run with impeded flow causes heat which increases resistance.

 

With 6v wires when in doubt go thicker.

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Thanks for all the help figured it out apparently needed new plug on the side that did work but just had me confused if one side worked and other side had new plug new light and power to plug but still not working I guess it's the small things overlooked right again thank you all for your input 

20220717_092505.jpg

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