Jump to content

no head lights


Ash84
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello fellas, I know I got couple forums going on but i like to work different things when I'm waiting on parts or if I'm having trouble solve one problem. so my next issue is no head lights , i got tail and marker but no head lights. I pulled out the lights them self and they seemed already replaced, I say this because I got this car from the in laws but they cant seem to remember what they had done to it (oh boy). I also found a glass use fuse did not seem bad but i replaced it any way still not working. So what is my next step? and how do i test head lamps with multi meter even though I'm pretty positive they are not the problem. Also i used multi meter on head lamp plug got nothing but sure if i did it right because the prongs on my meter are very short GRRR and could not seem to fit. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cycle the floor switch a dozen or so times, and the headlamp switch too. This might knock off corrosion on the contacts enough to pass current.  If that doesn't work you will need to get busy with circuit tester or meter and start checking were you have power and where you dont. The second place to check for power is at the distribution block on the radiator support or inner fender.  This being where the lines from the dimmer come out and split to the lamps.    Also double check the grounds are going to rust free body sheet metal.

 

When you switch the lights on do you get any movement of the Amp meter with ING off?

Edited by greg g
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Start at the headlight switch with your meter.  Is there power at the battery wire?  If not look from there to the battery.  If so, check for outgoing power with the switch on if it's good  check wiring toward the headlights.   Is there a fuse on the switch itself?  Step by step from the source outward is the best way to troubleshoot any electrical issue IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, capt den said:

you do not say if you hooked the headlites to power and see them light up. if you have not done that then go back and do it. if they are good then start following the other steps outlined here.

Ah yes, another use for the universal jumper wire that should be part of everyones trouble shooting kit.  You can even get fancy and buy one of those mechanics friends to momentarily  provide alternat power to suspect electrical items.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789254638&adsetid=117789254638&product=35448&store=517&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87CprqXo8gIV1RitBh3_GAQXEAQYAiABEgKDOvD_BwE

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, greg g said:

Ah yes, another use for the universal jumper wire that should be part of everyones trouble shooting kit.  You can even get fancy and buy one of those mechanics friends to momentarily  provide alternat power to suspect electrical items.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-remote-starter-switch-35448.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12144811130&campaignid=12144811130&utm_content=117789254638&adsetid=117789254638&product=35448&store=517&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI87CprqXo8gIV1RitBh3_GAQXEAQYAiABEgKDOvD_BwE

 

 

Ok Greg g and capten den  so take jumper wire from battery ( I got no cig lighter ) to the 3 prongs on head lamps? And if so does it matter witch prong? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It matters.

 

One prong is the ground, one prong is the high beam, the last prong is the low beam.

 

You will need to run a jumper from ground to the ground prong as well or it still will not work.

Edited by Sniper
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Ash84 said:

Ok Greg g and capten den  so take jumper wire from battery ( I got no cig lighter ) to the 3 prongs on head lamps? And if so does it matter witch prong? 

From your first post I got the impression that you have a meter.  So, just use it to test the lights in lieu of the two jumpers which it seems you may not have.   One lead to each of two  of the 3 terminals.  Doesn't matter which lead is where or which two terminals.    If no continuity it  means that those two are either the two filaments, or one is open.  Now move one wire to the remaining terminal and you should see continuity.   If not the bulb bad.  If you do, you now know that one of the two terminals is ground and the other is either high or low filament.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, kencombs said:

From your first post I got the impression that you have a meter.  So, just use it to test the lights in lieu of the two jumpers which it seems you may not have.   One lead to each of two  of the 3 terminals.  Doesn't matter which lead is where or which two terminals.    If no continuity it  means that those two are either the two filaments, or one is open.  Now move one wire to the remaining terminal and you should see continuity.   If not the bulb bad.  If you do, you now know that one of the two terminals is ground and the other is either high or low filament.

Ok yes did forget to mention I did put the meter on the the three lead only I used the prongs on the meter on each lead tried every lead but got nothing so I thought that would mean the head lamp is bad . My problem is I can't get my left head lamp out to test because of a rusted screw so I'm soaking it in PVC blaster and slowly rotating it. I can't imagine both whent bad when they both look like they were replaced recently. So with no continuity that would mean bad build right? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, Sniper said:

It matters.

 

One prong is the ground, one prong is the high beam, the last prong is the low beam.

 

You will need to run a jumper from ground to the ground prong as well or it still will not work.

I took jumper wire with gator clips straight to the battery and no action from the light so I'm guessing lamp is bad unless you think the gator clips was not good enough contact. It started raining so I had to stop even though it's under a canopy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you buy one new headlite and plug it in and turn on the lights it will help you get started. make sure your battery is now charged after all this electrical work. having a 6 volt charger is something you should have now.    capt den

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, capt den said:

if you buy one new headlite and plug it in and turn on the lights it will help you get started. make sure your battery is now charged after all this electrical work. having a 6 volt charger is something you should have now.    capt den

I read it the man cannot get the bulbs out...so new bulb could not be plugged in....and if he can get to the bulb or plug and with the acknowledgement he has a VOM on hand....spare bulb is only needed it indeed the test prove his are shot....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think he does have access to one.....my bad on that.....still, with proper use of the meter.....he should be able to breeze through the circuits and be right back up and running in short order.   I said what I did more as a reminder in troubleshooting you don't need to buy support parts until the test prove them bad and with the DVM in play he has all he needs for testing 'cept access to a socket.   Shorting wires/jumper all have their place for a by-pass but that is only an indicator you have issues.....and if jumper does/fails to prove anything...you still have grounds and opens to contend with.  The DVM is going to pull the fat out of the fire.   Another item in the circuit is the tie points....(terminals) on the radiator shell....don't over look these for loose/corroded.  Voltage drops on poor connections will kill a circuit in a heartbeat...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, capt den said:

must have read it wrong. i thought he could get one out but not the other.hope he gets it solved. he certainly has alot of good advice, which is why people come here.     capt den

Driver side bulb is plugged in nice tight so I know that not the issue but yes not sure of left side light . New bulbs are on order .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, capt den said:

must have read it wrong. i thought he could get one out but not the other.hope he gets it solved. he certainly has alot of good advice, which is why people come here.     capt den

Yes lots of good advise problem is the vehicle is in storage and don't like ke to bring it home unless good weather is in site so once the rain shows it's coming it all comes to a hualt. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I think he does have access to one.....my bad on that.....still, with proper use of the meter.....he should be able to breeze through the circuits and be right back up and running in short order.   I said what I did more as a reminder in troubleshooting you don't need to buy support parts until the test prove them bad and with the DVM in play he has all he needs for testing 'cept access to a socket.   Shorting wires/jumper all have their place for a by-pass but that is only an indicator you have issues.....and if jumper does/fails to prove anything...you still have grounds and opens to contend with.  The DVM is going to pull the fat out of the fire.   Another item in the circuit is the tie points....(terminals) on the radiator shell....don't over look these for loose/corroded.  Voltage drops on poor connections will kill a circuit in a heartbeat...

Not sure what you mean about tie points on radiator shell. Now I won't sleep till I can see the car to know if I did over look lol. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, capt den said:

if you buy one new headlite and plug it in and turn on the lights it will help you get started. make sure your battery is now charged after all this electrical work. having a 6 volt charger is something you should have now.    capt den

Yes I bought a 6v charger the second day I had it theses things turn over so slow I some times wonder if it will ever start. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I think he does have access to one.....my bad on that.....still, with proper use of the meter.....he should be able to breeze through the circuits and be right back up and running in short order.   I said what I did more as a reminder in troubleshooting you don't need to buy support parts until the test prove them bad and with the DVM in play he has all he needs for testing 'cept access to a socket.   Shorting wires/jumper all have their place for a by-pass but that is only an indicator you have issues.....and if jumper does/fails to prove anything...you still have grounds and opens to contend with.  The DVM is going to pull the fat out of the fire.   Another item in the circuit is the tie points....(terminals) on the radiator shell....don't over look these for loose/corroded.  Voltage drops on poor connections will kill a circuit in a heartbeat...

I have access to driver side socket but on meter are so short I could not make contact with metal in socket. So I too two pieces of coper wire and touched the leads on the meter to the wires got nothing , then it stated to rain. So now I wonder did I do it right? So did I find my issue. Witch still doesn't explain build having no continuity, when it looks new. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Ash84 said:

Yes I bought a 6v charger the second day I had it theses things turn over so slow I some times wonder if it will ever start. 

You need O gauge cables for battery and starter relay to starter with 6v system also good clean grounds.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use