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Carb rebuild


Purple Moo Cow

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Alright folks, apologies for not asking some basic questions sooner the air force up n decided me n my wife needed to get stationed down in Georgia so I've been prepping our house in Maryland to move. Anywhoser...I pulled my fuel pump, rebuilt it, and she is spitting gas like no one's business. Car still doesn't run, so I'm figuring the carb needs a complete rebuild and is probably seized/gummed up to the point of not working. My question is this: I've never rebuilt a carb before, and I'm under the impression you can re-use all the parts just get new gaskets, is that correct? Or do I need all new needles n such as well to go with it. I intended to just take it all apart, soak everything in a bucket for a day or two and then re-assemble. Any reason not to do that?

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Mikes carburetor parts kits are great. They include a leather accelerator pump. Buy a gallon can of berrymans carb cleaner. It has a basket you can set your parts in to let them soak. You won't need to soak them for a day or two. 15-30 minutes usually does the trick. Rinse the parts off and blow them out after they soak. 

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33 minutes ago, allbizz49 said:

Mikes carburetor parts kits are great. They include a leather accelerator pump. Buy a gallon can of berrymans carb cleaner. It has a basket you can set your parts in to let them soak. You won't need to soak them for a day or two. 15-30 minutes usually does the trick. Rinse the parts off and blow them out after they soak. 

Yea from researching on here mikes definitely seems like the way to go but he's sold out for the time being unfortunately 

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The only gasket that needs soaked in oil is the accelerator pump.

 

I used whatever Rock Auto has for a brand when I did mine.  I think it was Walker.  RA show two choices in stock for a 48 Dodge.

 

Just match up your old gaskets to the new ones as the kits are designed to cover multiple carbs and usually have several versions of of gaskets in there.

 

Did a write up when I rebuilt my carb, might help.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/carb-rebuild

 

 

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There are plenty of little internal passages that corrode and may hold sediment. Plugs should removed. Orifices cleaned.  Springs and balls proper size confirmed and in their place. Throttle and choke plate linkages at the butterfly valves should be inspected for wear. Worn shafts or bushings allow air entry points that are uncontrollable. 

Carbs are designed to control the amount of fuel they allow into the engine. As best they can within their design capabilities  At various loads and RPMs. When there are leaks, you lose control. Then Air fuel mixture is now off. Rough running soon follows. Or no running at all at certain rpms. 

Carbs can be finicky. Keep at it. Keep studying. 
 

https://mrolinykautoservice.weebly.com/uploads/4/0/1/8/40184925/carburetor_work_booklet_week_12.pdf

 

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I spray the gasket between the air horn and the carb body with a bit of silicone spray on both sides when assembling. This enables reusing the same gasket many times when making float and other adjustments.

 

Also, I recommend cleaning carb parts in an ultrasonic cleaner if you have access to one. Most carb cleaners will take off the original manufacturer's plating on the exterior of the carbs.

 

Pete

 

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Pay attention to the two steel balls. They are NOT the same size. The smaller one is for the accelerator pump. You may have to measure them with a caliper or micrometer to determine the smaller on. Don't ask how I learned this (yes the large ball is still stuck in the orifice of the carb I was rebuilding).

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I used Mike's Carburetor rebuild kit and it has everything you need (http://www.carburetor-parts.com/).  Also, he has a great 2-part step by step video (on his site and on youtube) that walks you through everything.  In terms of cleaning your carb, I suggest Simple Green as it's cheap and biodegradable.   

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