Jump to content

Need help with Water pump 1947 Dodge 2 ton COE


Kyrie

Recommended Posts

IMG_2652.JPG.c039b9539b017481894423b34632cf38.JPG

This is what my water pump looks like when removed

IMG_2651.JPG.59ebbf2c7c4034fdb8bb193c47565cf5.JPG

And this is what my block looks like.....

There is an indentation that resembles the shape but from my manual it looks like the water pump is supposed to have two holes.

 

I did find this after I removed radiator to find this 

IMG_2643.JPG.d2fcb9cc3d5349d3da99ad7289796c36.JPG

 I'd love to hear all the bad news!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like your cooling system hasn’t been flushed in a loooong time, and possibly was exposed to elements because that loooks like leaves and other junk. 
 

You are probably having overheating issues? All your fluid is coming back through that little internal thermostat bypass hole instead of through the thermostat.
 

Take off that top thermostat housing (don’t dig it out just yet). You’ll find underneath the remnants of your thermostat .

 

Clean it up carefully, and see if you clean up any junk you can .

 

same with your radiator - flush water through it until it comes clear . There is also a petcock drain you should open and clear.

 

 

take like a long metal coat hanger and stick it in the water distribution tube (round D hole) and dig around to loosen up any compacted sediment.

 

now would be a good time to flush your block with low pressure and then increasing pressure to start getting crud out (high pressure may just compact things more).

 

Flush with a hose by putting it in top of head and junk comes out from that WDT.

 

 

when you are feeling a bit more in depth amd have time, you should probably plan on opening up the bottom two Welch plugs  to clear out sediment from your block built up over time, as well as replace your water distribution tube . Doing  so will essentially deep clean your block to ensure good water circulation and cooling.

 

see WDT rip and replace

 

see this good video on Welch plug clean out from our fellow forum member @keithb7

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little history of the engine would help my assessment.   When was it last run?  Did it have coolant in it when you started working on it? What Kind?  Is this after long storage or???   I don't think the pump has two holes on the block side, just input from the lower hose and out to the distribution tube.  What does the inside of the radiator at the top look like?   I ask because the stuff in the t-stat housing doesn't look like 'normal' corrosion, chunks are too big for that. 

 

BTW, the end of you tube looks much better than expected after seeing that t-stat housing!

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That complete cooling system needs very thorough cleaning of corrosion and sediment. 

The radiator should be checked out for leakage and proper flow.

The block needs the lower core plugs removed for complete sediment removal too.

The WD tube needs to be pulled out to help flush the block also.

Do it all now so no chasing over heating issues later.?

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just purchased the truck and was told that it.was "running like a sewing machine" when started and driven 6 years ago. When I removed the radiator, tons of water poured out and when I removed the tubes....whammo rust flakes the size of corn flakes! I vacuumed as much as I could, flushed, soaked vinegar overnight x 2 and flushed again. I haven't even touched the radiator. My engine is a straight 6 251 cu.in. 25" (which means everything is more expensive) and 2 ton (which means can't get parts). I am wondering if anyone can get their hands on the specs for the heads of this motor as I have access to a aluminum CNC mill.  

 

Thank you all so much for the replies and videos!!! I had no idea about a welch plug and there was no bad news! Thank you again !!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's good that it hasn't been run since parked years ago.  Maybe the rust is mostly from the long storage and hasn't yet been circulated into the radiator.  First thing I would do is get the radiator out and reverse flush with a garden hose, upside down and hose in the outlet the the pump draws from. 

 

You stated water poured out, if it was stored with water only for 6 years I hope you don't have freeze temps in the winter or there may be other issues.

 

 

The vinegar soak is a good move.  I'd keep doing that for longer periods.  Removing the core plugs from the block at the lowest points, to flush is a good practice.

 

Once you get it running, repeat the the treatment, the acid will work better when warm.

 

What specs are you looking for on the head?  If it is thickness to determine milling amount?   If so, it has been my experience that that number is not available as there seems to be a lot of variance and AFAIK, the new spec hasn't been published.

Edited by kencombs
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome Kyrie, sounds like a cool project.

251 in a two ton COE! Color me a little jealous ?

would like to see a photo of the truck.

 

if you decide to have the water pump rebuilt before it goes back in, I’ve had good luck with http://www.autofriction.com up here in my neck of the woods.

 

Brent 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Kyrie said:

Just purchased the truck and was told that it.was "running like a sewing machine" when started and driven 6 years ago. When I removed the radiator, tons of water poured out and when I removed the tubes....whammo rust flakes the size of corn flakes! I vacuumed as much as I could, flushed, soaked vinegar overnight x 2 and flushed again. I haven't even touched the radiator. My engine is a straight 6 251 cu.in. 25" (which means everything is more expensive) and 2 ton (which means can't get parts). I am wondering if anyone can get their hands on the specs for the heads of this motor as I have access to a aluminum CNC mill.  

 

Thank you all so much for the replies and videos!!! I had no idea about a welch plug and there was no bad news! Thank you again !!!

You noted about possibly milling the head and the milling machine is designed for aluminum. Please be cautious as it may not be be rigid enough to cut cast iron and ruin your head. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope down in the basement  it doesn't look like this pic.....

This looks same as your thermostat housing.!?

881529402_IMG_0140(2).JPG.20f3abfe91641a8c71bea97ce46f0796.jpeg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
  • Haha 2
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dang Rob, so glad that is not your basement!

I’d go back upstairs, shut off the light and screw the door shut ?

 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Brent...That is one ugly bottom end.

The thermostat pic shown above looks the same as my pic.

Glad I've never run into anything as bad as the above two pictures.

Both are a real challenge for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use