lostviking Posted December 11, 2021 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2021 This may end up on a Ripley's episode, but I have brakes! I was able to pump the pedal and blow the air from the lines a bit at a time in the rear, until I saw fluid coming out. I can get a firm pedal now, and since I had the drivers front tire off, I was able to check that the disks lock the rotor. I used a plastic rod to hold the pedal down, pressed against the seat. That's how I was able to maintain pedal pressure by myself. I don't have the proper lid to use my pressure bleeder, so it was all manual. I'm going to do a better job now that I have some brakes at least. I can move it into the driveway instead of pressed up against the garage wall. I've been jacking the drivers front, pulling the tire and using a jack stand on the frame, and jack on the front axle. Then I slide across the floor under the bumper to get to the passengers side. Man, what a great feeling to have something that should be a rookie job finally working. DAMN! I'm going to stop posting on this thread, and go back to the rear end and full brake replumbing thread to finish, since the disk are done man Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted December 12, 2021 Report Share Posted December 12, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, lostviking said: This may end up on a Ripley's episode, but I have brakes! Glad to hear it, I know how you feel, I went round around with my stock one ton drum brakes. After sitting 30 years, dismantling, honing, assembling, dismantling, honing, etc., I had it down to only one leaking cylinder. Then after a messed up eBay purchase that ended up in my favor with four cylinders being free. I was able to get the last one on, no leaks pressurized it to 425 lb, and just grinned. ? Edited December 12, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wildwest Posted January 16, 2022 Report Share Posted January 16, 2022 I used Scarebird brakes also very easy installation. I’m using original master cylinder. Wondering if I need a risidual pressure valve in-line Or a proportioning valve in the rear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted January 17, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2022 You do need a proportioning valve if you mixed disks and drums. I talked to Scarebird and they said I didn't need a residual valve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Splitpi Posted January 28, 2022 Report Share Posted January 28, 2022 This is great info. Did you go with discs in rear? I messaged Scarebird, and they said they only do front kits. I would prefer to get 4 wheel Disc and remove the rear drums as well but I am not finding a kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lostviking Posted January 29, 2022 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2022 23 hours ago, Splitpi said: This is great info. Did you go with discs in rear? I messaged Scarebird, and they said they only do front kits. I would prefer to get 4 wheel Disc and remove the rear drums as well but I am not finding a kit. No. I swapped a Jeep Cherokee 8.25 inch rear with 3.55 gears. It can be upgraded to disks, but since that is maybe 25% of the stopping power, and I've just rebuilt everything in them, I don't see the reason. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.