Burtbaccarat Posted July 17, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 42 minutes ago, Sniper said: I'd just go down to Ace hardware and match it up, probably an 8-32 if I was to guess. Dunno the size of the head off had, I do have a set of ignition wrenches and the Model A I just did the points on used a 5/16th, but that's bigger than 1/4. 7/32 is a hair smaller than 6mm. 3/16 is even smaller. I believe I am still running the points my 51 came with when I bought it so I haven't fooled with it. Long ago, when working on a slant 6, it was just easier to pull the distributor and fix it on the bench. Yeah, I thought about pulling the whole thing out and dealing with it out of the car...but alas...opted for the "easy" way out...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted July 17, 2021 Report Share Posted July 17, 2021 Nothing easy about changing points in the car with my back lol. Manually turn the engine to tdc and pull the distributor. It’s much easier to install new parts on the bench and easier to adjust the points gap. You can only put the distributor in correctly or 180 degrees out. By and large the rotor should be at roughly 7:00 at tdc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2021 Finally got a screw that would fit in condensor hole...so thats a win...put new points on and had spark coming out of coil...however the red wire within the dist started to smoke when I was turning..... Tested the wires connected to the coil (after I replaced it as well) and there was a hot AND a ground feeding the dist from the ground side of coil. So I disconnected the hot, and attached it to thr other side of coil instead. Smoking stopped and just had spark. So I don't get spark at the plugs, realized I never put the Damm rotor on, so open it back up and put on new rotor. Now I shoot some ether in the carb and proceed accordingly.....here's what I get when I try to start WITH fuel in carb...either gas or ether....https://youtube.com/shorts/AL8PLrmNXBw?feature=share And here is what I get when the fuel source exhausts https://youtube.com/shorts/q_krcRtLeyc?feature=share What say you? Sounds like the genny is squeeling...but the starter sounds like it's almost disengaging....maybe the best bet is to pull it and clean it up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted July 23, 2021 Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 (edited) So, have you confirmed you have spark ? How about fuel ? It sounds like it is close to starting. I did not understand what you were saying about shorting and wires smoking..did you get that sorted out ? Maybe when the wires on the coil were messed up it burnt the small wire in the distributor ? Some of these distributors have a small wire under the cap that can get shorted out when the insulation fails on them... It might be wise to take the starter out disassemble clean lube and reinstall. Sounds like the starter is not keeping the bendix engaged long enough which could be part of the issue, not turning over fast enough. Edited July 23, 2021 by Dartgame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmaxx1949 Posted July 23, 2021 Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 (edited) Not sure what the squealing is but you can try put a drop or two of oil in your generator cup. Starter sounds like its disengaging okay. May need to have someone give it a little gas when you are cranking it. I would run a hose into a small gas can off the fuel pump if you can to ensure a good steady flow of fuel. Edited July 23, 2021 by maddmaxx1949 I would also say the cranking speed sounds very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 20 minutes ago, Dartgame said: So, have you confirmed you have spark ? How about fuel ? It sounds like it is close to starting. I did not understand what you were saying about shorting and wires smoking..did you get that sorted out ? Maybe when the wires on the coil were messed up it burnt the small wire in the distributor ? Some of these distributors have a small wire under the cap that can get shorted out when the insulation fails on them... It might be wise to take the starter out disassemble clean lube and reinstall. Sounds like the starter is not keeping the bendix engaged long enough which could be part of the issue, not turning over fast enough. Yes. I'm getting spark..I sorted out the coil issue and everything is thus far performing as it should....I put new plugs in and am dumping small amounts of fuel into carb to try to fire...and in through the vent to get into the bowl....I haven't even really put fuel into the tank, I wanted to make sure it would at least fire. Now even saying it to myself Im angry that I sound like an idiot...lol.., " hey guys! Why won't this start without fuel in the tank?) Yeah, I just figured it would fire for a second or three.... So maybe I dump 5 gals in there and see where that takes us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 15 minutes ago, maddmaxx1949 said: Not sure what the squealing is but you can try put a drop or two of oil in your generator cup. Starter sounds like its disengaging okay. May need to have someone give it a little gas when you are cranking it. I would run a hose into a small gas can off the fuel pump if you can to ensure a good steady flow of fuel. I believe the genny is what's squealing...sounds like that's where it's originating from, anyway. I believe my manual is FINALLY coming tomorrow, I ordered it before I even brought the car home, but apparently it moves slower than any other mail piece in america...once that comes in, I'll have a better grasp on doing things like locating a oil cup in the genny..lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allbizz49 Posted July 23, 2021 Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 A small syringe works great for filling the bowl through the vent. Also, maybe disconnect the line from the tank at the pump and run a hose from the pump to a 1 gallon gas can to run the car. At least until you know the tank and lines are clean. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddmaxx1949 Posted July 23, 2021 Report Share Posted July 23, 2021 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Burtbaccarat said: I believe the genny is what's squealing...sounds like that's where it's originating from, anyway. I believe my manual is FINALLY coming tomorrow, I ordered it before I even brought the car home, but apparently it moves slower than any other mail piece in america...once that comes in, I'll have a better grasp on doing things like locating a oil cup in the genny..lol Should be a little flip up small cup thing to put a drop of oil in like on your distributor. Real small like. Added photo where it is on mine. Edited July 23, 2021 by maddmaxx1949 Added photo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 14 hours ago, allbizz49 said: A small syringe works great for filling the bowl through the vent. Also, maybe disconnect the line from the tank at the pump and run a hose from the pump to a 1 gallon gas can to run the car. At least until you know the tank and lines are clean. In your experience, what size hose should I get that would go onto the pump? I'm going to run to napa before my mail comes, which would have my svc manual....1/4? 5/16? 3/8? I don't even think I have any scrap hoses laying in my garage...lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allbizz49 Posted July 24, 2021 Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) 5/16. Also, maybe pick up a remote starter. They can be helpful when troubleshooting. That way, you can spin the motor from under the hood. Easier to look for spark and such like others have suggested when working alone. Edited July 24, 2021 by allbizz49 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 41 minutes ago, allbizz49 said: 5/16. Also, maybe pick up a remote starter. They can be helpful when troubleshooting. That way, you can spin the motor from under the hood. Easier to look for spark and such like others have suggested when working alone. Yeah, a PO Installed one along with a batt cutoff right next to the starter solenoid....the button doesn't work, but I've been old schooling it and shorting it with a screwdriver between the contacts to bump it under the hood....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 (edited) On 7/24/2021 at 10:48 AM, allbizz49 said: Edited July 27, 2021 by Burtbaccarat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2021 So I have the svc manual, finally. I'm looking at wiring diagrams and am curious as to what this relay is? By looking at the diagram all I can deduce is that it's the horn relay? Why would I have wires though for the ignition in and/or out of the horn relay? Because the horn only works when the key is on? The main question is I have this wire (traced in red) that went to the coil, and I have it disconnected because I wasn't sure if it was in the right place..... Anyone have any insight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 Not certain but it looks like either a relay for an overdrive trans or maybe for a fluid drive or something like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazyK Posted July 25, 2021 Report Share Posted July 25, 2021 (edited) 21 hours ago, Burtbaccarat said: that is the horn relay, to its right is the turn signal flasher and to the left is the voltage regulator. many items that are powered when the ignition switch is on use the power terminal as a connection point. I'm guessing here, it was done this way to eliminate some wiring under the dash and the number of connections on the key switch my car has the following connections on the bottom left had terminal 1. power from the ignition switch 2. power to the coil 3. power to turn signal flasher 4. power to the back up lights Edited July 25, 2021 by LazyK spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 (edited) On 7/24/2021 at 10:48 AM, allbizz49 said: Edited July 27, 2021 by Burtbaccarat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 We have a runner!!! https://youtube.com/shorts/tyv5r8nlvJA?feature=share All ibdidndifferebt today was hook up the actual fuel line, changed the coil to cap wire, put on a new cap because i just didn't trust the one that was on there was new.... Got a bunch quieter as I ran it...probably been so long it took a while to get the motor juice everywhere again....doesn't seem to have any miss, carb needs some adjusting or refresh of seals...but it runs! And moves! Stopping...meh....not so much....so add that to the to do list..prob a full rebuild of cylinders, new lines, perhaps new master....that will be the next thing I'll work on.... In the meantime I've got a bunch of wires that need to be replaced Also, the batt read 8.35 when the car is off and 8.24 when it's running....I wanted to check to see if the generator was doing generator things so I had the multimeter the batt. I've read about the polarizing of the generator, but dont have 100% certainty on when I would need to do it.....or if it would hurt to do it if not needed. Also, the amm meter didn't really look like it was going to the charge side...may have been SLIGHTLY to the discharge side...I know it would go discharge when I turned lights on with the car off..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 Hmm, seems the voltage is high for a 6v setup. How many caps does you battery have? 3 is a 6v, 4 an 8v battery. Sounds like someone may have put an 8v battery in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 8 minutes ago, Sniper said: Hmm, seems the voltage is high for a 6v setup. How many caps does you battery have? 3 is a 6v, 4 an 8v battery. Sounds like someone may have put an 8v battery in there. Yeah, it's an 8v batt in it. And old timer had saidnthey used to run 8v in theirs back in the 60s because it gave a little.more umph on the start...but still didn't damage lights, and genny would still charge it.... The batt store guy had suggested turning up the regulator to increase the charging rate, but i didnt want to fool with that if I didn't have to.....he had said it was pretty common for guys to run 8v in 6v cars for the same aforementioned reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allbizz49 Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 Glad you got it running. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 Might need to adjust the regulator then. Just follow the procedure it the manual but add 2.1v to the specifications. The reason for adding 2.1v is that in a lead acid battery each cell (that's what the caps are on) supplies 2.1v to the battery's total voltage output. So a v battery with three cells is at 6.3V fully charged. An 8v battery will be at 8.4v fully charged. As an aside a 12v battery has 6 cells and 12,6v fully charged. Lead acid batteries need a charging voltage above their fully charged values which is why the regulator specifications will be above that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted July 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 4 minutes ago, Sniper said: Might need to adjust the regulator then. Just follow the procedure it the manual but add 2.1v to the specifications. The reason for adding 2.1v is that in a lead acid battery each cell (that's what the caps are on) supplies 2.1v to the battery's total voltage output. So a v battery with three cells is at 6.3V fully charged. An 8v battery will be at 8.4v fully charged. As an aside a 12v battery has 6 cells and 12,6v fully charged. Lead acid batteries need a charging voltage above their fully charged values which is why the regulator specifications will be above that. Ok that makes sense...im assuming the manual will indicate which of the adjuster screw to adjust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 27, 2021 Report Share Posted July 27, 2021 Yes, the manual will show how to adjust it. Just follow it as written, don't try to skip over things like the warm up period as "unneeded". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Booger Posted July 28, 2021 Report Share Posted July 28, 2021 On 7/17/2021 at 12:03 PM, Sniper said: I'd just go down to Ace hardware and match it up, probably an 8-32 if I was to guess. Dunno the size of the head off had, I do have a set of ignition wrenches and the Model A I just did the points on used a 5/16th, but that's bigger than 1/4. 7/32 is a hair smaller than 6mm. 3/16 is even smaller. I believe I am still running the points my 51 came with when I bought it so I haven't fooled with it. Long ago, when working on a slant 6, it was just easier to pull the distributor and fix it on the bench. Thankfully Ace Hdwre is the closest thing to a mom and pop store you can find now. What an asst of fasteners! and you dont have to buy a full bag of something you dont need or doesnt fit. I suppose if your a real miser you can take back what didnt fit. dont worry if your like me youll drop those little ones. I get 2 of everything 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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