Burtbaccarat Posted July 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 So I want to check out thr master cylinder to start the process of getting the car to stop, now that it runs and moves. I've seen vids that you access through the right side of the driver's floor. Of course when the floor was recarpeted they didn't leave a way to access it...so I felt around for where the cap was, but didn't feel a lump....I DID find what felt to be a circular hole, though...id say it was a couple inches in diameter..possibly up to 3" ....could that be it? Or is there something else that can be accessed through the floor? That being said, where can I find a new cap one I have to inevitably cut the carpet so I can get to the fluid fill? I looked a bit online, but didn't find any reproductions of it. Would it be better just to order a grommet once I measure the hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 30, 2021 Report Share Posted July 30, 2021 18 minutes ago, Burtbaccarat said: So I want to check out thr master cylinder to start the process of getting the car to stop, now that it runs and moves. I've seen vids that you access through the right side of the driver's floor. Of course when the floor was recarpeted they didn't leave a way to access it...so I felt around for where the cap was, but didn't feel a lump....I DID find what felt to be a circular hole, though...id say it was a couple inches in diameter..possibly up to 3" ....could that be it? Or is there something else that can be accessed through the floor? That being said, where can I find a new cap one I have to inevitably cut the carpet so I can get to the fluid fill? I looked a bit online, but didn't find any reproductions of it. Would it be better just to order a grommet once I measure the hole? I ran into the same problem when I started going through my '48 P15 and getting it ready to return to the road. I was able to pull up the carpet even though it had been glued in some spots. Carefully study how the carpet was installed and see it you can pull up enough to access the master cylinder without doing any visible damage to the carpet. If/when you need to access the trans or clutch the carpet will need to come out..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted August 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 So as I'm waiting for brake system parts to arrive ( ordered basically all new parts , wheel cylinders, brake lines, master cylinder.....figured if I have to go over it all, I may as well just replace it all so I know when it was done) I'm planning out my winter to do list....the top of that list is build another motor in the garage so I can drop it in for next season. That being said, within the flathead 6 world. What are my options...218 and 230? I know any 228 can essentially be turned into a 230...but are there any other options? I'm not looking to go fast...if I go by too fast, they won't be able to see who is driving that badass car...lol.... My main reason for asking, is I want to know if I find a flathead motor...what will be a "bolt on" that will work with everything that's already there. I've seen some flathead 6s that were out of military vehicles from ww2...but it ain't easy finding a 218 in my area or 100 miles within my area. (Northeastern PA) . So when I find see a motor for sale, I need to know if it is a viable option. I plan on tearing the motor apart and rebuilding, with the addition of dual carbs, and the split headers for dual exhaust. I've also read there is a "bolt on" rear end with a gear ratio that will allow for highway speeds without a screaming motor...is that accurate, or am I mistaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg51T&CWagon Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 PM sent re Freebie Motor/core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted August 6, 2021 Report Share Posted August 6, 2021 Generally speaking, the 201, 218 and 230 can be made to fit in place of each other without too much issue. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted August 9, 2021 Report Share Posted August 9, 2021 I see you are in PA. George Asche the flat head guru lives in western PA. Look him up on this site. You should call him - he probably has an engine in which you might be interested. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted August 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2021 So I did manage to find a potential motor....its a 47 L6....waiting to see what it's out of to make sure it's a 218 or 230 and not something bigger.... Would that be a sufficient motornto tear down to rebuild? I can get the motor with trans (he won't seperate) for pretty cheap IMO.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger the Dodger Posted August 12, 2021 Report Share Posted August 12, 2021 On 8/10/2021 at 7:03 AM, Burtbaccarat said: So I did manage to find a potential motor....its a 47 L6....waiting to see what it's out of to make sure it's a 218 or 230 and not something bigger.... Would that be a sufficient motornto tear down to rebuild? I can get the motor with trans (he won't seperate) for pretty cheap IMO.... Be aware if swapping engines. Your Hydrive transmission needs a Hydrive compatible engine, because of the engine oil supply to the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 On 8/12/2021 at 3:48 AM, Roger the Dodger said: Be aware if swapping engines. Your Hydrive transmission needs a Hydrive compatible engine, because of the engine oil supply to the trans. Whew...that was a close one...lol.. didnt even cross my mind....thank you for thinking for me...dodged that bullet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted August 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2021 Now I'm in the carb market. Looked at langdons and saw those 32/36 carbs they had and was going to grab one, but they are OOS. Oh well, I will still grab the headers. Then I started nosing around and found a offy (probably reproduction) dual carb intake for a pretty low price. Which had my gears turning....I would still need to buy another oem carb, or a 1bbl substitution that would work, and if they were affordable enough, just buy 2 so they match. The performance gains are not of my main concern, im not interested in spinning tires...but leaving the hood open for oohs and aahs at the shows would be fun. So the question is where do I find another oem carb, aside from a beat up one on ebay.... OR Find a replacement that would bolt on to the offy mani and I could just run 2 of them. Side note* this is my first venture into the world of carburetors. In all the many cars I have run and zipped up....they were all injection. So I may sound like a bit of an idiot when asking questions about what carb will work in what situation.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted June 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 So it’s been a while since I’ve posted in here so I’ll try to get it all out in one shot…. changed out the entire brake system (with oem stuff, not upgraded/converted). wanted to do an oil change, so dropped the pan and cleaned the sludge out, and changed the gasket, and rear main seal. took it for its first ride and immediately regretted leaving the bias ply tires on..lol so swapped to radials….which was fun finding valve stems to fit in the oval holes…but found some Milton ones on Amazon, and had to ream out the edges a little bit…but got them in and all is well…night and driving experience..which I’m sure you are all aware of. The most recent project was trying to get the rust off the bumpers….got the rust off, but still have a lot of pitting…so it is what it is and I polished them anyway…still looks significantly better then before…. Car even went to her first show on Father’s Day so that was fun and my 7 year old daughter loved being able to sit in the front seat and drive through registration. A lot of folks like the ratty looking old thing and came over to bs with us while we were there with it. Next in the list is getting the dual carbs and split headers put on…which I’ve read through here and have seen the tips (like welding the plug in the bottom of the intake manifold so it doesn’t leak) now I’ve got to figure out the linkage and had it mocked up with just the carbs on the manifold…so still a long way to go… my question is, with the 2 carbs not being original, and being a hydrive …will NOT having that extra pot in the carb for the hydrive system be detrimental to it staying running when I’m in gear and not moving? Has anyone got any experience with dual carbs and hydrive? I’ll do a photo dump for posterity…lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burtbaccarat Posted June 30, 2022 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted June 30, 2022 Report Share Posted June 30, 2022 I picked up a Thickstun dual 1bbl intake and am going with dual throttle body fuel injection on it. http://www.yourolddad.com/efi-mechanical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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