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POWER DISC BRAKE CONVERSION


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I am doing a some what resto-mod build for my wife's 1949 Dodge Wayfarer Sedan. With that in mind we are converting it to disc brakes using the following components:

 

FRONT KIT: https://www.tsmmfg.net/chrysler-car-front-disc-brakes-spacing-options.html

REAR KIT: https://www.tsmmfg.net/chrysler-car-complete-rear-disc-brake-kit-2160e.html

MC/POWER BOOSTER: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Dash-Brake-Pedal-Assembly-Dual-Diaphragm,45467.html

 

Has anyone completed an upgrade using similar components? If so, do you have any tips on how to get the bracket for the pedal and booster lined up?

I do not want to drill holes through the firewall to later find out that they are not in the correct location.

 

Thanks.

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I installed 4wheel vented discs and a pendant pedal assembly in my 1940 Dodge in the mid 1970's using Oz 11" discs and master cylinder/booster.........the pedal box was from a 1963 Chev impala and I modified the dash end to meet the 1940 Dodge dash edge.......I sat the pedal box where I thought it should go, then cut the firewall out and welded in a piece of 1/8th plate where the booster bolted thru the firewall.........the plate strengthened the firewall and gave a place for the booster bolts to go thru and into the firewall end of the pedal box...........I also made the steering column bracketry that locates to the pedal box and also to the lower edge of the firewall......admittedly this is obviously RHD as I'm in Australia......the discs & calipers are from an Oz only Leyland P76 with Ford bolt pattern, the rear discs were a combination of Valiant front rotors and 1962 Oz Plymouth tapered axle style Hubs and 1975 Ford rear calipers.......the car uses the 318 Poly,Castiron Torqueflite and driveshaft parking brake.........it stops well..........

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First time I've seen this company (tsmmfg) and this kit. Do you use your stock hubs in front and what type rotors does it use? Are you changing engine and trans too or are you going to use the hanging brake pedal with the thru the floor mount clutch pedal? 

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The kits come with a rotar and everything needed but I will have to change to disc brake style wheels. I am getting them made from www.thewheelsmith.net. Bob there is very knowledgable.

 

I am using this master cylinder / power booster setup which mounts under the dash like modern cars: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Under-Dash-Brake-Pedal-Assembly-Dual-Diaphragm,45467.html

 

I spoke with the guys at Speedway Motors and they say that this is the most commonly used product for Disc/Disc setups.

 

And we are keeping the old Flat 6 and Fluid drive trans, but converting to 12v and might need a vacuum pump though.

 

There might be some modifications under the dash needed but wifey wants to be able to stop without freaking out. She also has a 1960 Ford F100 with drums all around and you have to stand on it to stop fast.

 

Let me know your thoughts though YukonJack.

Edited by Hooliganxmotorsports
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I put one of those pedals in my 47 D24. I just held it up where I wanted it under the dash, drilled one hole from there, then went out on the firewall and drilled the rest. On mine the firewall has a little angle so I had to cut the bracket apart so I could weld it back at that angle. I also had to cut apart the vertical pedal hanger to get the pedal where I wanted it. It's easy. 

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On 7/1/2021 at 10:04 PM, Hooliganxmotorsports said:

Hey MackTheFinger, can you show me some pictures from both direction please. That would help me out a bunch.

I didn't take any while I was hacking it together but I'll try to take some this weekend. 

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I used parts of their kit for the rears on the '49 Desoto.  I also built a kit for the '47 but it is still sitting on the shelf.

 

I had to make some changes and have some parts jet cut. I used the stock master cylinder on the '49 but what I did was to use a remote power brake booster. I put it in the trunk.

 

The big deal was their system did not have a provision for a grease seal. I had to have the plate made. My machinist MAY still have the thing in his computer and if he does he can just cut them.

 

I used GM c.1995 calipers that have a cable e-brake on them. The only thing is the mechanical ratio on the handle is not quite enough to lock them hard unless I press the brake before I do it. At some point I will but in a bellcrank under the floor with a lever and cut the cable into two to increase the ratio. Other then that it works fine.

 

The power booster I mounted on the self next to the tire. I used a modified stainless oven pan to hold everything so if it ever leaks it will all end up in the pan.  I also ran the brake light switch there to make it easy to change without getting under the car.

 

One word of advise. Several of the makers of disc systems will NOT make them for the rears.  Why? They had too much trouble with the discs not running true on the tapered shafts. The only way to do it correct is to take your rear hubs with the discs and the axle to a machine shop and have them true the face of the face of the hub to the axle and then mount the disc and make sure it is also true. You have to maintain a "set" of the Hub, the Axle and the pin (stamp the up with UP). You will get pulsing and problems otherwise.

 

Send me a PM with your number if you want me to call over the weekend to talk about it.  James

 

See photos.

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