How do I remove this bushing on my starter motor?

[ratbailey]

1 hour ago, Eneto-55 said:

For what it's worth:

Not to throw a wrench into the works or anything, but you aren't supposed to cut the ID of an oilite bushing, unless you use extremely sharp tools.  They say that the cutting process "smears" the material, and closes the pores, greatly reducing the self-oiling effect of the bushing.  Cutting the OD is fine, and there is a special tool that can be used on the ID, forget the name.  It doesn't cut, but has rollers or some-such that push the metal around enough to enlarge the bore. Then there's a bunch of stuff about cooking the bushing in oil if any process used got it above some certain temperature.  (No, I'm not a machinist - but I read it in my son's Machinery's Handbook.)

I did a bunch of reading, and yes, the Oilite literature tells you to never do what I did, exactly as you say. But then, in discussions on machinist boards, some professional machinists say they do this all day, every day. The only warning was to use a dead sharp reamer, which this brand new one was. My rationale was 1. I had no choice, an off the shelf sized bushing for this shaft was either way too big, or too small, 2. the car is going to be driven 3 times a week, 9 months out of the year at most, so it's hopefully going to be awhile before it fries, 3. a starter isn't in constant use, it's under heavy load for under 10 seconds during each use, and 4. if it fries, I have a NOS end plate, and as long as the damage doesn't take out any other parts, no real harm done. We shall see.

Edited June 28, 2021 by ratbailey

[Sniper]

It's called a burnishing tool.

[chrysler1941]

11 hours ago, Eneto-55 said:

For what it's worth:

Not to throw a wrench into the works or anything, but you aren't supposed to cut the ID of an oilite bushing, unless you use extremely sharp tools.  They say that the cutting process "smears" the material, and closes the pores, greatly reducing the self-oiling effect of the bushing.  Cutting the OD is fine, and there is a special tool that can be used on the ID, forget the name.  It doesn't cut, but has rollers or some-such that push the metal around enough to enlarge the bore. Then there's a bunch of stuff about cooking the bushing in oil if any process used got it above some certain temperature.  (No, I'm not a machinist - but I read it in my son's Machinery's Handbook.)

You are correct. It's called a Roller-Type Burnisher. But for our hobby cars it will be fine. 

Miller uses a dual spiral type reamer for king pin bushings.

[Eneto-55]

8 hours ago, ratbailey said:

I did a bunch of reading, and yes, the Oilite literature tells you to never do what I did, exactly as you say. But then, in discussions on machinist boards, some professional machinists say they do this all day, every day. The only warning was to use a dead sharp reamer, which this brand new one was. My rationale was 1. I had no choice, an off the shelf sized bushing for this shaft was either way too big, or too small, 2. the car is going to be driven 3 times a week, 9 months out of the year at most, so it's hopefully going to be awhile before it fries, 3. a starter isn't in constant use, it's under heavy load for under 10 seconds during each use, and 4. if it fries, I have a NOS end plate, and as long as the damage doesn't take out any other parts, no real harm done. We shall see.

I hadn't re-read the thread - I was remembering incorrectly, thinking it was on a generator.   (I had also read some of that "Don't do this, but if you do, do it so-and-so way.")

[ratbailey]

21 minutes ago, Eneto-55 said:

I hadn't re-read the thread - I was remembering incorrectly, thinking it was on a generator.   (I had also read some of that "Don't do this, but if you do, do it so-and-so way.")

Oh, I don't think it matters what it's for, the guidelines from Oilite was for their bushings in general, regardless of application. Which I've recklessly decided to ignore ?. There is a thick disc of felt at the bottom of the hole, though, and I'm tempted to drill into the center of the cover, and put in an oiling cup that would keep it saturated with oil. 

Edited June 28, 2021 by ratbailey

[wagoneer]

This thread is a great thread and represents everything we enjoy about our old machines; history, investigating, spending an extraordinary amount time on the minutia of banal yet interesting. Oilite is a fascinating technology, and too bad it hasn't really flourished beyond Chrysler and the spinoff company. 

 

We've spent three pages worth of comments on a bushing; that's why I like to come to this forum. I love these details!

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

oilite  has flourished.....it has application across the whole spectrum of applied mechanicals....it has great wear properties but....cannot take a beating/pounding application, use the 660 here....used a ton of these on the last project with 1 3/8 ID as common bore...the OD was proprietary.....my little machine shop to the rescue here....

[ratbailey]

22 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

oilite  has flourished.....it has application across the whole spectrum of applied mechanicals....it has great wear properties but....cannot take a beating/pounding application, use the 660 here....used a ton of these on the last project with 1 3/8 ID as common bore...the OD was proprietary.....my little machine shop to the rescue here....

In my non-gearhead life, I'm a musician. Oilite bearings are an important ingredient Hammond organs and Leslie cabinets---part of the reason they're such indestructible tanks is thanks to the Oilite bearings that will allow knucklehead owners to ignore routine maintenance for 40, 50, or 60 years. It's rare that an old Hammond or Leslie can't be brought back from the dead.

 

"Spending an extraordinary amount time on the minutia of banal yet interesting." This is actually on my family crest.

Edited June 28, 2021 by ratbailey