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James_Douglas

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Hi All,

 

I am working up my materials list for the conversion of the 1947 DeSoto to 12 volt. {Too many changes I will make requires it}.

 

One thing I am looking into is what insulation I will use. I will use Cross-linked Polyethyene. The question is for the under dash work, which of the three insulation thicknesses should I use. SXL is way to thick for under dash work, it is great for #10 wire in the engine bay for main feeds. So it is up to GXL medium, or TXL which is very thin.

 

I like the idea of using the thin wall as it is flexible, but I wonder if I am going to have problems down the line if I do.

 

I have used some of all three wire types, but in limited ways. If anyone has had any extensive experience with the thin TXL I would like to hear about it.

 

Thanks, James

 

 

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On 6/4/2021 at 10:21 PM, chrysler1941 said:

Do these have soft isolation like silicone wirings?

No. These are SAE and used in most modern cars. PVC is what you see at the auto parts store. It has lower heat ratings on the insulation and is deadly toxic like all burning PVC insulation.

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It would be best to use the medium sized wire and forget about the thin stuff which may have too much resistance per unit length for longer runs. A 10 gauge wire for the higher currents will work fine. Ensure any voltage dropping devices to adapt remaining 6v components are identified as linear and of superior quality. Make sure that the wire you buy does not come from the big red eastern garbage factory because it is 100 percent inferior. A top quality universal wiring set up made in the states with an included fuse block may be an easier and more economical way to go. All the Best M

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Underdash wiring can be exposed to chafing. It also requires wiring that is easy to bend. I would go with the GXL. It should be easy to bend and be sure to protect it as much as possible to prevent chafing. As far as connectors, I have this thing about soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. I do not trust crimp on connectors.

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55 minutes ago, rallyace said:

Underdash wiring can be exposed to chafing. It also requires wiring that is easy to bend. I would go with the GXL. It should be easy to bend and be sure to protect it as much as possible to prevent chafing. As far as connectors, I have this thing about soldered connections and heat shrink tubing. I do not trust crimp on connectors.

 

I've found high-quality crimp connections to be reliable in several automotive and aircraft projects. The key is to use the proper tool and excellent connectors. The cheap crimpers are a definite no-no, the only good option is a ratcheting crimper such as this one:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5

 

5145qantsZL._AC_UL115_.jpg

 

The connectors need to have the ability to crimp around the insulation as well as the conductor to provide strain relief. Here is one example that includes a heat shrink strain relief:

 

81ygW+AEUjL._AC_UL320_.jpg

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