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Me and the American


Worden18

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10-6:

Got the new spring kit for the front brakes installed. Got everything adjusted.  Went out for a ride and the car pulls to the right slightly and I have brake drag on the right side. When I assembled everything I was assuming quite the opposite. I thought that I might be tightening  the passenger brakes. I'll pull it  apart tomorrow to make sure the wheel cylinder didn't spring. That's what happened to the the driver's side at one point.  I'll get it yet!

When we were filling up for gas a guy pulled up on his motorcycle to tell me he liked my car. He had no idea what it was. We chatted for about 5 minutes. He said if it was his car he would lower it and make a rat rod out of it ?

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 10/24/2021 at 11:40 AM, oldodge41 said:

Any updates on the brakes? I hope all is well.

I just worked on the driver side front tonight. I got everything apart except for the rubber hose that connects to the wheel cylinder. I'm having trouble with this clip.  Is there a special tool to pull it off or should I just try to grab it with a pliers? I think it's rusted, I did spray it and I will leave it sit overnight. Meanwhile I ordered two new brake hoses. This has to be the problem as there is nothing else left to fix. ?

IMG_20211025_204511632~2.jpg

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If you can't get a good angle to tap against the lip, tap on a corner of it and turn the clip to an angle you can get at.  

There's a groove all the way around the hose so the clip will turn.  There's some spring tension in the clip to hold the hose tight in the bracket so it needs to be forced off the hose as well as on when reinstalling.  No tension means it needs to be replaced, common part at any parts store.

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Merle and Dave, thanks for the info.  There's not much room at all.  I don't think I can swing a hammer.  I'll look at it again tonight and see what I can do ?

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A long heavy duty screw driver...pound it off as already mentioned or a good pair of vice grips on the lip...TIGHT...twist and work it off.

That's how I remove them.

NAPA has those clips in different sizes.

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I usually clamp onto the "L" with a vise grip and tap it off with a hammer.  Try using the side of the hammer for more swinging room.  Sometimes it comes right off.  Other times, once I get enough space between the closed end and the line, I insert a flat screwdriver and twist to work it off.  The side we're seeing is pretty clean, may help to clean the other side, there may be just enough crud there to keep the line from backing out enough for the clip to, well, unclip. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

11-6:

Update on the brakes. I was able to get those little clamps loose with a hammer and a screwdriver, and then pull them off with a pliers.  Installed the new flex hoses.  I still have the same problem, the brake shoes do not return to the boss and drag against the drums causing excessive heat.  I have both sides backed off all the way with the star adjustment screw, and that seems to be working for right now. The only other thing that isn't brand new is the master cylinder. Flex hoses, shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kit, everything is new. And still the damn brake shoes won't return all the way.  Could the master cylinder cause this problem?  

Some pictures from our test drive...

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IMG_20211106_155734814_HDR~2.jpg

IMG_20211106_180944768~2.jpg

IMG_20211106_155743385_HDR~3.jpg

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IF the master is not returning past the bleed hole and relieving the line pressure...the brakes usually stay on to some degree....now the master could not be returning due to trash/rust behind the piston and even a brake shoe can cause similar issues of not fully returning for the same reason...rust ring in the cylinder.....

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3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

IF the master is not returning past the bleed hole and relieving the line pressure...the brakes usually stay on to some degree....now the master could not be returning due to trash/rust behind the piston and even a brake shoe can cause similar issues of not fully returning for the same reason...rust ring in the cylinder.....

Okay, thanks Plymouthy.  Next up: master cylinder replacement.  I'm not going to let this beat me.   I can literally take apart and put the brakes back together with my eyes closed now ?

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3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

before you just arbitrary replace the master....I think a visual would be in order....unless you just happen to have money to burn then SHUT MY MOUTH...!!!!

Considering the brakes were done by the PO eight or nine years ago....and he didn't drive it much AND left it sit outside in the winter...and when I replaced the wheel cylinders they looked awful inside, I'm more than willing to replace the master.  A new one isn't spendy ?

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8 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

it is not so much the cost as it is the need and utilizing proper troubleshooting techniques.....well at least that is the way I look at things....

 

 

Well you can count on me to screw things up and have to do things twice.  At least this time around I felt I did things in the proper order. Wheel cylinders first, spring kit, flex hoses. I suppose I should have just bought a new master cylinder right away and done that months ago.

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It was just a suggestion that if you were going to continue messing with the older cars that troubleshooting techniques be applied first to ascertain the needs/problem....even if you choose to buy new over rebuild yourself...at least you should know what you are spending your money on will fix the real problem.  I have too many cars in my stable and thus my money I try to spend more wisely, correct calls on failed components save not only money but time invested.  Both resources I try to spread out the best I can allowing me to do more for less.

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10 hours ago, Worden18 said:

when I replaced the wheel cylinders they looked awful inside,

It's a pretty safe bet from your description of the wheel cylinders condition that the master needs some attention and in hind sight as you mentioned you should have done it with the wheel cylinders but no harm done so far it sounds like. 

 

You may consider ordering one of these inexpensive brake hones. Lisle 10000 BRAKE CYLINDER HONE | Tool Discounter which should work on the wheel and master cylinders. I have honed wheel cylinders on the vehicle with one of these no problem. Step cylinders get done from both ends. Napa and other parts stores should have them in stock also.

 

You can still find rebuild kits fairly cheap and wheel cylinders and masters are simple to do. Even if you order new it is nice to have your old components refurbished for future use if needed.

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