MarkF Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 Hello! I'm new to the group and have a question about my 1948 Dodge D-24. It has the original drivetrain with the fluid drive transmission. I wanted to know if a fluid drive out of a 1949 Dodge Wayfarer would interchange with the 1948? Something in my transmission broke when my middle son was 12 trying to do burnouts. I appreciate his need for burnouts so I let him live, but he does walk a little funny now. ? My youngest son recently purchased a 1950 Plymouth Deluxe and it came with a running driving 1949 Wayfarer parts car so I thought it might be time to do something with the 48 after sitting in a garage for 17 years. I appreciate any help anyone can offer. Thanks! 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1949 Wraith Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 If the donor trans is a non fluid drive unit the input shaft will be too short. If it is a fluid drive unit I imagine they will be compatible, 48-49 were body style changes but drivetrain probably didn't change much? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 Depends on what trans the wayfarer has. If it’s the 3sp with the fluid coupling it may work. The Gyromatic would require modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkF Posted May 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 I haven't pulled the transmission yet or looked at it for that matter. I was told by the previous owner that it is a fluid drive. I appreciate the input and I'll keep you posted as this progresses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 Problem is, what the public may call Fluid Drive and what Chrysler called it are usually not the same thing and compatibility is beyond my ken. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 "Fluid Drive" refers only to the fluid coupling between the engine and clutch that works sort of like a self contained torque converter, but without any torque multiplication. I believe your Dodge's were available with either a standard 3 speed trans behind that FD unit, or they could have the "Gyro-matic" semi-automatic transmission. If you only have Low, High, and Reverse on the shift lever you have the Gyro-matic. If there are 4 positions for the shift lever you have a 3 speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted May 13, 2021 Report Share Posted May 13, 2021 What body style is the 49 wayfarer? Some of them are fairly valuable. If it’s running and driving it may be a restoration candidate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 17, 2021 Report Share Posted May 17, 2021 If they are both 3 speed manual transmissions, they should interchange. Only problem is most Wayfarer transmissions (including mine) are "stubby" They used a short trans in Wayfarers so you may need a longer driveshaft. Tape measure is your friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 On cars with Fluid Coupling the bell housing is longer. The standard three speed will not work unless it was one that came on a car that had a fluid coupling. They used longer input shafts. On a car that had a fluid coupling, you can use the semi-auto (M5-M6) or a proper three speed with the long input shaft. The 1949, second series or true 1949 models, used a slightly different M6 that had a different set of wiring and controls. If using a three speed with a fluid coupling of course this is not an issue. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted May 18, 2021 Report Share Posted May 18, 2021 First rule of fluid drive: THOU SHALL NOT DO BURNOUTS! Second rule of fluid drive: FLUID DRIVE IS NOT THE TRANSMISSION Third rule of fluid drive GO TO ALLPAR.COM AND SEARCH "FLUID DRIVE AND TRANSMISSION. Read and absorb the info there. Good luck. Hope his funny walk is something he will out grow. Have him read all the stuff you find... Measure donor transmissions carefully. Some wayfarer were built on shorter wheelbase chassis and may have different over all lengths. Save the input shift from the current trans as it may be needed to facilitate the repair. Welcome to the forum, good luck with your fix. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 Also, be aware that different fluid drives adapt to different size clutches. Dodge trucks and Royals use 10" clutches, and Windsors use 9.5" clutches. The bigger trucks use up to 12 7/8 inch clutches. Doubt your sticking a B2Y fluid drive in your D-24. ? Shop manual would be your friend here. The fluid drive unit itself should be compatible with the same size clutch, now whether the fluid drive mates to your transmission is a housing question. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 On 5/18/2021 at 5:53 PM, James_Douglas said: On a car that had a fluid coupling, you can use the semi-auto (M5-M6) or a proper three speed with the long input shaft. And the M4 (if you can find one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, chrysler1941 said: And the M4 (if you can find one) And an overdrive (if you can find one). I've been reading my fluid drive chapters as bedtime reading (That confusing cross-section of fluid drive finally makes sense -- talk about a rorschach test), and the thing to know is that everything inside that fluid drive costs a fortune. Fluid drive seals - $525 (why?!), clutch assembly $155. Front and Rear runner bearings - not sure, but certainly a pain. I have a slight fear that my runner bearings are going, and that's why my stoplight idle is dragging so much on the engine. aside: When stopped at a light with brake on, and in gear, where in the fluid+m5 semi-automatic system does the engine slip so that the power doesn't rip apart something? Kind of in the same vein as don't do burn outs above. Whatever is supposed to slip to keep the idle smooth... isn't slipping as smoothly as it once was. Edited May 19, 2021 by wagoneer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, wagoneer said: And an overdrive (if you can find one). I've been reading my fluid drive chapters as bedtime reading (That confusing cross-section of fluid drive finally makes sense -- talk about a rorschach test), and the thing to know is that everything inside that fluid drive costs a fortune. Fluid drive seals - $525 (why?!), clutch assembly $155. Front and Rear runner bearings - not sure, but certainly a pain. I have a slight fear that my runner bearings are going, and that's why my stoplight idle is dragging so much on the engine. what is your idle rpm, in neutral and gear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagoneer Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 2 minutes ago, chrysler1941 said: what is your idle rpm, in neutral and gear? I had to raise it to about 750 to prevent stalling at the stop light. When I put down to 450, I would stall out at the stoplight...unless I pressed the clutch in, then things are fine. I can see the drag in the engine because my generator slows down and starts reading negative amps. I put a tach on, and I saw the speed would slow down to around 250-300 (when nominally set at 450). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrysler1941 Posted May 19, 2021 Report Share Posted May 19, 2021 (edited) 21 minutes ago, wagoneer said: I had to raise it to about 750 to prevent stalling at the stop light. When I put down to 450, I would stall out at the stoplight...unless I pressed the clutch in, then things are fine. I can see the drag in the engine because my generator slows down and starts reading negative amps. I put a tach on, and I saw the speed would slow down to around 250-300 (when nominally set at 450). 750 will produce sluggish shifts. Adjust back to 450 and check vacuum for 21 inch. If it stalls in gear, turn counter clockwise for richer mixture. This worked for mine. Also check dash pot. It functions to prevents stalling Edited May 19, 2021 by chrysler1941 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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