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need some ignition help


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hey guys, just recently picked this 1950 plymouth super deluxe up as a project and im honestly lost of what to do to get it started.

the guy before me said he was putting an electronic ignition in but messed up, so i took it out and put the points back in. im lost on the part of wiring the distributor to the coil and ignition switch. so my questions are for now.

1. from the distributor to the coil, is it positive or negative?

2. from the coil to ignition switch, is it just a direct link? also what else should be on the switch?

3. on the coil, what other wires are supposed to be there? ive read so far 2 wires, 3 and 4 wires but no idea where they go.

 

heres some pics that might help, i dont get some of the wiring tho.

IMG_20210429_101008.jpg

IMG_20210504_174200.jpg

IMG_20210504_174158.jpg

Edited by gamer8350
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it appears you still 6 volt...wiring is direct to the coil.....the coil on these old beast could care less if positive or negative ground as long as you have it connected.....BUT as the car is normally positive ground and you  have the battery sitting in negative ground...then voltage to the + side of the coil and negative to the distributor......

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only if you do not want to be able to turn the ignition off....personally I would run it via the ignition switch....but if you are only TESTING...that will work....and what is a dizzy but the person working the car......🤪  can't stand that term....lol

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i actually just tried the ground on the coil to the distributpr and positive to the ignition but no start, tried starting fluid and nothing. points are gapped at 0.20 and firing order is correct. im honestly thinking i should have got it started by now. im wondering if the coil is shot because through out all of testing, the coil was cold.

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test these items...follow the book....are you using an ohm meter to test things......so many ignition threads and so few folks running tests, following the book or even trying to get up to speed reading a white paper on ignition.   I am not harping just stating cold hard facts....

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Yes, power at the coil with the ignition on.  You may or may not have power on both small posts of the coil depending on points being open or closed.  A simple test light works well for testing the ign system.  I've hooked the clip of the test light to the coil, dist side and stuck the point of the light into the battery ground  clamp when alone and turned the engine over watching for the light to flash on and off( it's supposed to) so you don't necessarily need someone else around to help.  hIf it doesn't, there's a current post here in this specific forum "No spark" where I've detailed a simple test process for the primary ign circuit as well as a half dozen other posts throughout the forum.  Know, don't guess what part of the system is working 

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You mean dizzy  instead of the term distributor -Tim?

 

Must be from their living upside down has had some effect??  🤐

 

DJ

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Get some O gauge battery  cables and for the starter relay to starter. Good job getting it going.

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Your car is wired for 6 v positive ground from the factory.  According to the posted pictures yours is hooked up with negative going to ground.  At least the battery has the positive post closest to the starter solenoid.  When you switch to ignition on, which was does the Amp meter needle move.  Most cars are not real sensitive about this and will start and run.  But they operate better when hooked up as designed.  Which coil terminal is going to the distributor?

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When you went back to Points etc did you static time it?

It probably has been knocked out of timing. See technical section above for steps to static time the engine

Tom

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