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Ignition Switch No Start


51_Meadowbrook

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I have had quite a tough time with my '51 Meadowbrook over this past year. The latest of issues started with a faulty ignition switch; it would shut off if you hit a bump and would have to jiggle the key to get it to gain continuity again. It's a strange one that has three terminals, listed as ST, ACC, AM, and a central wire that is fixed to it under a metal sheathing that goes through the firewall and attaches to the horn relay.  The switch I bought was from a '50 Coronet and has four terminals, listed ST, ACC, IGN, BATT.  I'm not sure what the AM standards for but it had one wire attached to it. The ST had one wire attached to it. The ACC had the rest of the wires, such as the radio and heater motor, attached to it. So I connected the ST wire to the ST terminal of the new switch, the AM wire the ACC terminal, the set of wires from the ACC in the old switch to the IGN terminal in the new switch, and I ran a wire from the BATT terminal to the outside of the firewall to the horn relay. I did this based on position of the wires on the switch. Well that didn't work as it shot my Ammeter down to -50. So I found that the wire that is attached to the ACC wire had current in it and connected it to the BATT terminal. From there that left the wire on the ST, the wire on the BATT, the wire going to the horn relay on the ACC, and the set of wires on the IGN.  I turned the key and the starter turned and turned but would not fire up. I found that the only way it will fire up, and it fires up immediately, is if I turn the key to ON and connect a wire from the IGN to the ST. I can't understand why it will not fire is I turn the to the START position. I also found out that if the engine is running and I turn the key from ON to ACC the engine continues to run. What am I messing up, or is this switch faulty as well? And through my playing with this switch I fried the LED flasher relay so I need to replace it.

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First question, Do you have a wiring diagram? If you do not, they are extremely helpful so I'd start there. If you do, I can tell you what works with mine.  I have a minimalist setup including an ammeter. Basically as simple as it gets. I also have a generic ST, ACC, IGN, BAT switch. The ST for me is coming off the center post of my ignition switch and goes to the small center post on my solenoid. IGN makes its way to the negative side of the coil, BAT, goes from Ignition switch -> Ammeter -> Battery terminal on voltage regulator. and I don't have any accessories. By connecting IGN to ST aren't you effectively doing the same thing as turning the key to start it? You can also check for spark at the plugs while having someone crank it for you with the key. Maybe there is something causing you to get spark when you jump it but not when cranking. At least you would know If it should be starting. Not sure if all this helps or not, I am not a big electrical guy

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That’s the problem, when I jump the terminals I get spark at the plugs. If I just turn the key to START the starter spins but no spark. I can have it soon all day by turning the key and get nowhere. But if I run a wire from the IGN to ST terminal it fires up immediately. 

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And have you tried another ignition switch? I would be leaning that way based off the spark/no spark diagnosis. Even if the one you put in was new, I hate to be cliche, but they don't make em like they used to. I just had a solenoid that was bad out of the box, kept sticking so I'd tap it with a wrench or else the starter would keep spinning. Just threw on one today that has probably sat outside for the last 20 years and I had no problems with it what so ever. I find that new electrical parts can really be hit or miss. Especially the Chinesium cheap ones

 

Worst case, you are out some time and 10 bucks for a new switch.

Edited by maddmaxx1949
bad grammer
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When you get the opportunity, you can double check your wiring. This is what should be connected to the ignition switch based off the wiring diagram, sometimes it helps to see it a different way, I have a hard time with the wiring diagrams sometimes. AM and BATT will be the same in regards to wiring your new switch. Assuming AM stands for Ammeter. You can effectively ignore the accessories post in regards to the starting system its unrelated. I know you said your engine still runs on ACC so I'm wondering if maybe theres an incorrect hookup on the horn relay? Just spitballing here.

 

 

20210426_221756.jpg

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