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Battery saver - Pulse battery maintainer unity


desoto1939

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When I attended the Carlise event last week I was able to talk with the owner of a company called Battery saver.  This same person also had done a lecture session at the AACA Annual Meeting and Lecture meeting that is held in Philadelphia.

 

His company has designed a new battery charger that has a pulse mechanism that shocks the battery to help with the desulfation of the plates in the battery.  The gov't has a similar technology for there large trucks to extend the life of their 24 volt trucks.

 

I purchase the Micro 100 which is a small unit and the unit detects if the battery in your car or truck is a 6 or 12 volt battery and automatically sets the unit to the correct voltage.

 

It also has a digital display to indicate 12 or 6 volt and how much the battery is charge and the amount of volts.

 

I am not related to the owner nor do I have any financial compensation from the owner on this product.  Just bringing it to your attention.  

I have attached pictures of the unit I purchase and some literature from the company.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

 

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Thank you!

 

I will be looking into buying one in the near future!

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As my car has long rest periods not only in winter, I too have provided charging and curing units.

 

All my CTEK 6V 0,8 A units failed withe the time - not beeing specified for 115 Ah batteries.

Now I have stronger 6V units, but not waterproof because of cooling necessities.

Therefore I let the whole assembly easily removable, held with one quick fastener (crate lock), stabilized with rubber pads under the horns and one single connector to the car.

The assembly holds two 6V chargers and one 12V; plus a relay box cutting out all this from the batteries,

if someone pulls the 220V plug from the socket (is parked in condo garage).

 

(I have 3 batteries: -- one 6V for the original system; -- second 6 V in-line solenoid to starter (Car doesn´t start easily with 6 V only);  --12 V gel- batt for accessories with its own alternator)

 

Fotos show the charging combo, and off topic the twin 6V generator/ 12V alternator unit and the two 6V batteries

(sorry for the bad quality, I didn´t have better equipment then).

 

All these changements occured over 25 years- I didn´t want to change all to 12V at the beginning. Car is absolutely reliable for our long travels.

The auxiliary 6v starting battery has no generator but would last for a 4 weeks holiday without charging.

 

Greetings from Düsseldorf!

Go

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Go Fleiter
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I bought a Battery Saver charger around eight years ago, and have used it regularly since. I can tell you that the two batteries I have used it on have lasted above and beyond my expectations. The first one was in my 64 Comet, the battery was already three years old when I got the car, and I sold it four years later with the same battery still in use. Currently it is maintaining the charge on a five-year-old battery in my 56 Chevy. Based on my anecdotal evidence I would say it seems to work.

Edited by kbuhagiar
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After seeing the results of “off gasing “ from old lead acid batts on metal, I switched to AGM. The hydrogen sulphide gas is not kind to surrounding metal. I seen it rot the hood above the battery on my 01 Dakota. I use a c-tec 6v charger for the oldies (optima) and a 12v Schauer on my Odyssy battery for my pick-up. The Odyssy 12v is in it’s 2nd vehicle and It has not let me down in over 15 years. They have a 20 year service life and no complications. My 2 cents M

PS My 2 wheeled Marquette booster/ charger is gathering lots of dust.

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8 hours ago, Marcel Backs said:

After seeing the results of “off gasing “ from old lead acid batts on metal, I switched to AGM. The hydrogen sulphide gas is not kind to surrounding metal. I seen it rot the hood above the battery on my 01 Dakota. I use a c-tec 6v charger for the oldies (optima) and a 12v Schauer on my Odyssy battery for my pick-up. The Odyssy 12v is in it’s 2nd vehicle and It has not let me down in over 15 years. They have a 20 year service life and no complications. My 2 cents M

PS My 2 wheeled Marquette booster/ charger is gathering lots of dust.

 

I too have moved on from conventional unsealed lead-acid to AGM batteries (I inherited the two old-school batteries I have, came with the cars). I have an Optima in the 47 Plymouth and I will install one in the 56 Chevy when I relocate the battery to the trunk.

Edited by kbuhagiar
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Just a note about terms.  AGM batteries are Lead/Acid, just sealed to prevent loss of corrosive fumes or liquid.

 

I'd like to put one in my next vehicle that need a battery, but the pricing is a deterrent(twice the price of a flooded cell of equivalent quality locally) as well as the often mentioned quality problems with Optima .  The internet seems to think that the move to make them in Mexico resulted in a less than stellar product.

Quote

 

 

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19 hours ago, chrysler1941 said:

We have had these type of charger for some years now in Europe. (Not same company)

But being it sets voltage automatic, It's very fussy about battery charge level. If battery voltage is too low, it will not sense it.

Thanks.

 

Sounds like I would have to keep a working convential charger to use in order to get a pulse charger to charge.

 

Gonna have to pass.

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1 hour ago, kencombs said:

Just a note about terms.  AGM batteries are Lead/Acid, just sealed to prevent loss of corrosive fumes or liquid.

 

I'd like to put one in my next vehicle that need a battery, but the pricing is a deterrent(twice the price of a flooded cell of equivalent quality locally) as well as the often mentioned quality problems with Optima .  The internet seems to think that the move to make them in Mexico resulted in a less than stellar product.

 

WHAT???

 

Say it ain't so!

 

Maybe they will move production to China next,to get a really good deal?

 

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Here is a picture of the pulse charger and the power connectors when it is attached to the 1939 Desoto. The first pictures shows the scale to determine the amount that it is charged up to and it shows 100%  the large number tell the amount of volts the battery is charged to.

 

The second picture shows the 14 foot poser cord with the clips to attach it to my battery and to the ground on the head bolt.

 

Rich Hartung

desoto1939@aol.com

 

 

 

p1.jpg

p2.jpg

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2 hours ago, kencombs said:

Just a note about terms.  AGM batteries are Lead/Acid, just sealed to prevent loss of corrosive fumes or liquid.

 

I'd like to put one in my next vehicle that need a battery, but the pricing is a deterrent(twice the price of a flooded cell of equivalent quality locally) as well as the often mentioned quality problems with Optima .  The internet seems to think that the move to make them in Mexico resulted in a less than stellar product.

 

 

Thanks for the clarification. ?

 

I've read all of the stories about lower-quality Mexican Optima batteries. Optima production moved to Mexico in 2009. The Optima in my Plymouth was purchased in 2015 and is still going strong, and all of my gearhead friends with Optimas have also had no complaints. So maybe we're just lucky. 

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The Odyssy is much better than the Optima because it is MIL Spec. AGM batteries have electrolyte impregnated membranes between the plates allowing closer spacing thus allowing for many more of these in the casing greatly increasing capacity and performance. They are not prone to the problems of the ancient liquid or gel varieties. The 6 volt Optima that I have in my chevvy is 8 years old now and shows no sign of decrease in performance. Maintaining a good charge never letting the battery to go flat goes a long way in prolonging its life. Old batteries containing liquid acid are a thing of the past and fail way too soon. M

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I had a flooded cell Interstate handling the duties in my 64 300 for 9 years before it died.

 

Climate has a large part to pay, batteries do not like heat.  That Interstate lasted most of that time in San Diego, about 3 months after I moved to Tucson it died.  Coincidence?  Mostly, but the heat didn't help it.

 

The job I do now uses a lot of AGM batteries, industrial grade UPS systems.  We warrant them for three years, recommend replacement at 5.  This is in a climate controlled environment.  But they are also used in critical applications so those recommendations are conservative, can't call AAA when the hospital's infrastructure takes a dump because the UPS failed in an outage. 

 

Interesting story, years ago I got called out to the local hospital to fix one of their UPS' that had a failed power supply.  Got it fixed and gave it a good once over while I was there, they didn't have a service contract with us at the time.  About a month later I ended up in the hospital for a triple bypass, the same OR that was supported by that UPS is the one I was in.  Later on I related this story to my son and told him to always do the very best job you can because you never know when your life may very well depend on it.   If sometimes I might appear to be a bit OCD about things here you have an insight as to why.

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One of the posts in this thread stated the pulse keeps the plates clean by knocking off build up of what ever it is that forms on the plates. One of the reasons for battery failure (this from 11th grade auto shop class) was that this deposit would fall off the plates when the battery was being charged.  This would eventually build up and reach the bottom of the plates, effectively shorting out the cell.  This was critical with 6v as that took 2 volts out of the picture.  We were taught to remove the battery, hold it about 3 inches in the air and drop it a couple times as squarely  on its bottom as possible.  This would break the partical bridge restoring the dead cell.  I have used that procedure and have had about 50% positive results.  Having a battery that wouldn't take a charge, then recharge and get a season or two more out of it.

 

So to pulse or not to pulse, that is the question.

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I have had a new lead acid vented battery internally short and cause a pretty good engine compartment fire in a 68 furd mustang fastback that nearly took out the garage. It bloody went up like Chernobyl. Although I got things out with a CO2 extinguisher, it was still a hefty insurance claim. The car battery was disconnected and it was about 3 months old. It was probably dropped prior to me purchasing it. M

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You guys are right about keeping the battery charged up all the time. I have a 165 watt solar panel on top of my RV and my last set of six volts lasted almost 9 years (hard freeze for Florida for 2-3 days killed one last year and they got changed as a set). Sniper also brings up a good point about temps for batteries. They don't like hot or below 20 degree temps for long. Keeping the battery fully charged and watered for wet cells really extends the life.

 

Might not be of use to you if you garage your car, (Mine stays park outside all the time) but I use a part of a Harbor Freight outside LED solar security light. The LED part let in water and was toast, but the solar panel was fine. It puts out about 6.5 to 7 volts dc and all I did was add alligator clamps to the wires and a couple of magnets to the base of the panel. When I park my car I just put it on the roof. Keeps my battery topped off just fine.

 

Joe Lee

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I have added some of the literature from the Battery saver company.  This will explain in more detail about the Pulse effect, Battery Care and other types of batteries.

 

Enjoy the reading and info. Note the last step regarding jumpstart a car and the process.

The other file are to large will have to reduce than try to attach.

 

 

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Battery care.pdf

Edited by desoto1939
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