Jump to content

Novice painter help


Mertz

Recommended Posts

As you may know I have discovered the benefits of using appliance paint on my small parts because of the spray pattern and flow characteristics. I’m now working on an inner fender panel that had some rust pitting. I removed the old paint with a wire wheel on my angle grinder and 60 grit on my random orbital sander. I tried paint stripper on the other side but it barely touched it so I hand to grind that side too. I then wiped it down with Kleen-strip concrete and metal prep (phosphoric acid). It turn the rust black but raised it as well. I sanded those area to uncover more brown rust so I wiped it down again. I then used glazing putty to fill in the pits. 

 

Now I’m ready for paint.  The appliance epoxy does not recommend the use of a primer but I want a nice smooth finish so I’m thinking of using a high build primer before applying the appliance paint. I have some 2 in 1 Krylon that is high build. 

 

Would it be be best to continue to fill in the small pits with glazing putty or go the easy way and use the primer?  Or is there another and better way I’m overlooking? This is probably the biggest part I’m using the rattle can on. I don’t have a good spray gun or booth. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You may have adhesion problems with the glazing putty applied direct to metal.  It is intended to go over primer.  It may or may not work well.  I would not do it that way, but would apply an epoxy primer to the metal then glazing, then sand and paint, maybe after a second filler primer coat, depending on the appearance.  the epoxy is not a mandatory thing, just my strong preference, so you could substitute any primer intended to go direct to metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The beauty of the appliance paint it can go directly on to bare metal. If I have to prime before filling with glazing putty then I have to use self etching primer which can’t be painted over directly. That means several coats of high build primer sanding and a sealer primer before applying the top coat. I’m testing to see if there are any problems applying appliance paint over primer. I will also test the back side of a panel using appliance paint then glazing putty followed by the final coats of paint. One light coat of paint putty then another 2 light coats and a medium to heavy coat. The appliance paint takes a week to cure so it will be a slow process. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

2 hours ago, Mertz said:

The appliance paint takes a week to cure so it will be a slow process. 

 

Are you using 'rattle can' or 'spray gun' appliance paint?

I just did my knobs today with DP50® Epoxy Primer and Krylon® Appliance Paint,

the can specified dry to touch-30 minutes, dry to handle-2 hours, I did a 170° bake for 1 hour.

I also did a test piece to confirm durability before moving on to the lettering. all was good.

 

I was about to post results when I saw your thread.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’m using rustoleum rattle can appliance paint. So far I have had good results with and without primer. I don’t know about durability. I like using the instructions which they don’t recommend primer which is my concern about final finish and durability. Primer to me can and can’t be a weak point. Epoxy and self etching primer seem to be the best for first contact with bare metal. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I saw a tip today on wheeler dealer - a convertible top was restored . They used rattle can paint but the local specialist said use a heat gun to warm the metal while applying to get a powder coat like finish. I'm going to try it out on my next parts to see if it gets a nice finish. 

 

 

I have been doing a lot of research and I am keen to explore what it would take to do a pro diy paint job at home. 
 

Pros all use epoxy primer, body filler route with multiple layers of wet sanding to get that smooth flat surface and superior paint job.

 

what I’ve realized is that painting straight on. Reveals a lot texture on the metal surface that somehow comes off “cheap” for an exterior paint job, and I say that maybe because it all comes down to surface preparation and how much you put into it. 
 

For a non visible car part itself like inner door, the paint job should look just fine. 

 

I sand as best as possible, use the rust oleum rust converter , then prime it with an appropriate base so the color shows (rust converter  is black), paint with appropriate color multiple coats  then clear coat it multiple times.
 

I was told at ace that normal rattle can clear coat doesn’t last outside  that you should use a special one that has outdoor weathering properties.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by wagoneer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your Ace person is talking about the damaging effect of UV rays on paint as well as acid rain and other contaminants in the air.  Without the protection the paint dulls down, turns chalky.  Bright red becomes pink, medium and dark blues become robin's egg blue.

 

 

DIY, garage, no booth.   hours upon hours, before and after the paint is sprayed.

100_4344.JPG

100_3425.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem that I had with appliance paint on an oilpan was that it would chip, exposing bare metal that would eventually rust.  I am in year 10 of my LPG tank paint experiment, and am still pleased with the results.  This tank, mfd 1964, was covered with surface rust, and I needed to paint it outdoors as it was still in use.  I followed the Rustoleum rusty metal primer instructions to the letter, applying 4 coats with a foam roller, wet sanding between coats, then 4 coats of Rustoleum aluminum, same technique...had to stop at 4 coats as the finish was blinding when the sun hit it midday.  Sitting outside in the Texas sun near several oak and pecan trees, regularly decorated by mockingbirds having their meetings, and washed only occasionally, this tank still looks good, tho not as shiny as year one.  I plan on using this paint method on most unseen parts as it is economical and durable, with a similar method on sheet metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, wagoneer said:

I saw a tip today on wheeler dealer - a convertible top was restored . They used rattle can paint but the local specialist said use a heat gun to warm the metal while applying to get a powder coat like finish. I'm going to try it out on my next parts to see if it gets a nice finish. 

 

 

I have been doing a lot of research and I am keen to explore what it would take to do a pro diy paint job at home. 
 

it all comes down to surface preparation and how much you put into it. 

 

 

 

That says it all.   Putting the finish coat on is a  very small part of the job.  But, the one that takes the most technique to get a nice gloss, free of runs, dirt etc.  But the prep work to get a proper surface to paint is where all the real work happens.

 

Not a pro, but a veteran of several home garage full repaints.  Camaro, El Camino, Nissan Z car, mini van, pickup etc.  My '56 Dodge pickup is next, probably late this summer.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use