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Wheels stud question?


John H.

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I have a couple of 1/2 ton, B-model, brake drums sitting on the shelf. They use the right and left hand threaded mounting bolts. My 3/4 ton uses, what I understand, 9/16 -18 x 1" thread length studs which are a press fit from inside the drum. I want to replace all of the studs with new right hand thread units and nuts. Does anyone have a source for these replacement studs and nuts?

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If what you are looking for are the 3/4 ton studs, I ordered a couple for my B1C, and I am still looking for a better deal, but the DCM studs really work and fit but are $20 a pop:

 

BR-280-R Wheel stud 9/16'' Right Hand Thread  
  $20.00  
  1  
  $20.00

 

 

 

You should be able to get 9/16" nuts from nearly any auto parts store. I tried the Van Horn stud:

 

 

Wheel Stud E-5701 M-1163

SKU: M-1163

1 $6.29

 

which was cheaper, but was not the right diameter at the shoulder. I got that information from a post by JBNeal but I can't seem to find it now, but i will keep looking. Despite what the website says they will sell single quantity so perhaps someone knows the right part # from them, I bet they have them.

 

 

 

Edited by dcotant
Clarification of information
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Thanks for the help. Yeah, $20.00 a pop isn't a deal by anyone's standards. That's $400.00 for 20 studs which I find pretty unbelievable. You've passed along a good lead and I appreciate it.

John

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For the record, here are the measurements I get from my original:

 

Thread                      9/16 - 18

Total Length             1 3/4"

Thread + Shoulder   1 7/16"

Length Shoulder       9/16"

Shoulder Diameter   11/16" ( smooth, knurls were gone )

 

The 1172 and 1163 from Van Horn have 5/8 inch shoulder diameter, otherwise other dimensions are close enough. I think the mopar part listed in the parts list ( Mopar 913848 ) is for 1 ton truck. Vintage Power Wagons shows wheel studs but no dimensions and with clipped heads, I don't think they are right for 3/4 ton pilot house.

 

Finally from another post (and from the parts list) here is the mopar part # for right thread stud for 3/4 ton 593978. But google not helping with this part # yet.

Edited by dcotant
added more info
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I cannot find an equivalent to Mopar 593978 on Dorman's or Van Horn's site using the dimensions listed, nor do I have an example to verify what might work.  Rock Auto's Dorman listings are for 3/4" studs, so maybe that can work in a modified hub but not sure if it'll be a problem for the wheels.

 

additional information - Power Wagon vs 1-ton wheel studs

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"For the cost I think I'll take a chance and order 20."

 

Dimensions don't look right to me. 3/4 or 1/2 threads depending on which line you read.

 

I did find these part numbers at Autozone at one point, have not purchased one of each yet to see if it will work or not: 

 

https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-stud-610-389-1/70494_0_0


https://www.autozone.com/tire-repair-and-tire-wheel/wheel-bolt-and-stud/dorman-wheel-stud-610-510-1/70766_0_0

 

lengths are not mentioned in specifications. Probably purchase when I am in town next on Monday, will let you know.

 

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Looked back at Rock Auto and saw what you referred to regarding 1/2 and 3/4" studs. Can't rely on what a dealer claims on their website. The Dorman and Autozone websites claim they won't fit, but how far back is their information accurate? I will put a drum in the press this afternoon and pop out a stud to measure and take to Autozone and Napa.

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That's part of the "fun" of locating replacements for obsolete parts no longer in production is to wade through all of the 21st century internet baloney of erroneous information.  I dealt with this firsthand at an OEM where 3 ppl with inadequate background for working on equipment documentation consolidated volumes of details to streamline the service manual department...they were trying to eliminate overlapping data from numerous models, but ended up eliminating critical manufacturing and servicing information as well as muddling inaccurate assembly drawings used by manufacturing, service departments, parts sales departments, field sales reps...a bona fide mess that I stumbled upon that took months to clean up.  If one person is tasked with updating files with no one qualified to double check the work, we get these inaccurate online applications on low volume products, with little incentive for the vendors to correct the information.  I found equivalent lug studs and lug nuts on the Dorman site for 1-ton trucks, but they do not list them in their applications...also found a whole slew of shock absorbers for B-series trucks, then reached out to the manufacturers and vendors to update their applications on several occasions, but have not had any response from any of them...so all we have left are these online support groups to keep our buggies on the road I reckon :rolleyes:

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Well, it's time to fess up. I wasn't able to get to putting the drum in my press until Saturday. I put a piece of pipe beneath the drum for support. I then hit the studs with Kroil Oil and let them sit overnight. Next morning, Sunday, I heated the area around one stud with a MAP gas torch and attempted to press out the stud. End result, I bent one side of the top and the damned stud never budged.  Hmmm, I don't feel any better having confessed!

 

The thought of reheating the drum and trying to reshape it from the inside has occurred to me. The thought of being laughed off this forum for having that thought has also occurred, as I figure the structural integrity of said drum has now been compromised.  Anyway, I am now looking for a left rear drum for a 3/4 ton.

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Here is another possible candidate:

 

https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-72235-610-541.aspx

 

Like the ones JBNeal listed above, it is a little long, but the .685 or .682 knurl diameter seems about right ,so 610-618 or 610-541

 

Don't see anywhere near me with  610-618 in stock, but can get qty 1 with free shipping so ordering that. 610-541 is available locally so picking that up on Thursday. Also ordering 610-048.1 which is actually 5/8-18 but looks more like the one I got from DCM. Prices are about 1/2 the DCM cost, qty 10 about $10 each.

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A special "swedge" cutter tool was/is used to remove the raised swedged area retaining the stud tight to the drum and hub.

The studs won't press out easily unless done using this special machine shop tool.

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Lacking the special swedge tool one can cut the stud off flush with the hub/drum and carefully grind the expanded area away with a die grinder.  Dremel type will work but much slower.

 

The tool is just a special hole saw shaped cutter.  If you have a drill press, you may be able to find an annular cutter that would work.  Cut the stud short enough that the cutter will reach the drum face..image.jpeg.c8736f896de8d0d061c87f55240f37fa.jpeg

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16 hours ago, John H. said:

WOW! Wish I had this info earlier as I just screwed up my drum.

 

John

post editied to remove parts request

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I found a machine shop about 70 miles away. Our local one closed about 4 years ago and I was heading to a doctors appointment in that town anyway so I thought I'd look. The brake drum is compromised, though he says he could straighten it out. There is a hair line crack forming around the face at the rim so it is a safety issue. He did say that he could machine a couple of drums if I want to go that route? Thanks to JB Neal's post I told him of Fowl Jeff using Raybestos drums to build his own. I'll post my findings if anyone is interested?

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So for the locally available parts i picked up yesterday.

 

Stud 620-541.1 is pretty close, but knurl diameter seems too small still. Waiting for the other parts to show mailorder. Will check fit against my hub with the missing stud.

 

For the nuts, Dorman 611-052.1 seems to have too steep of a seat angle, not sure how it would mate with wheel, will check later.

Dorman 611-053.1 has closer seat angle, and is a bigger nut, with 1" hex instead of 7/8". I kind of like that it is bigger, but i think my X lug wrenchs are 7/8 max, though I am not against finding a different tire iron. Both nuts are 9/16 - 18 threads of course.

 

This is all so much fun but so unnecessary. I think the reason i have two spun studs is from getting tires put on ( left hand threads y'all and most tire jockeys are not paying that close attention ). Was from when I was younger. Now I remove the tire and wheel from the truck and take them in loose. Also in my early days I had a garage crush my gas tank when they put on a lift to change tires. Should have learned my lesson then.

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