Ters Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 6 hours ago, Sniper said: ..... But to be honest, with the exception of gear ratios... Exactly why I am considering. I have one or two in 5X4.5 lying around. Ters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Veemoney Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 If you go the route of using the ranger rear end with spacers I would consider getting some that a register similar to these but note these are not exactly what you need but the seller may be a source you could check with to see if they can provide them to your application. They are counterbored to fit over the existing raised hub of the axle(registered), and on the outer face have a raised register for the rim. 20mm 5x4.5 to 5x114.3 12X1.5 67.1 CB For Jeep Ford Escape Wheel Spacers Adapters | eBay . Another thing to consider is by moving the wheel out from the wheel bearings that carry the load you can add additional stress to those bearings which may be negligible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Ters - 7 1/4 axles are notoriously weak. I've seen a slant 6 kill one if driven hard, plus axle ratio is probably 2.76 to 1. A 318 can certainly blow one up with no issues at all. If you have a dart 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 I'd sell it - these are valuable to the A body folks, and hard to find, plus will more than pay for a more suitable late model axle. Some diplomats/gran fury's of 80's vintage may have an 8 1/4 which is a decent axle, but gearing will likely be numerically low - under 3.0 to 1. Best bet is a cherokee axle, most have 3.55 - 1 ratio. Both are about right width for flat head cars. Others like the 8.8 ford from an explorer, lots of ratios w/ limited slips can be found and disc brakes too if you chose right year. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ters Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 6 minutes ago, Dartgame said: Ters - 7 1/4 axles are notoriously weak. I've seen a slant 6 kill one if driven hard, plus axle ratio is probably 2.76 to 1. A 318 can certainly blow one up with no issues at all. If you have a dart 8 1/4 or 8 3/4 I'd sell it - these are valuable to the A body folks, and hard to find, plus will more than pay for a more suitable late model axle. Some diplomats/gran fury's of 80's vintage may have an 8 1/4 which is a decent axle, but gearing will likely be numerically low - under 3.0 to 1. Best bet is a cherokee axle, most have 3.55 - 1 ratio. Both are about right width for flat head cars. Others like the 8.8 ford from an explorer, lots of ratios w/ limited slips can be found and disc brakes too if you chose right year. We have not broken one (touch wood). I agree, they are not in the same park as an 8.25/8.75.... the ratio is the alluring part. We own 14 classic Mopar, with the '35 and '47 being the eldest. 2 of these has 250hp+ /6's, with not a groan from the 7.25's. Obviously no hooligan burnouts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted June 7, 2021 Report Share Posted June 7, 2021 Ters - just noted you are in South Africa, so my comments may not be that useful. Good to hear the 7 1/4's in your hot rod slant 6's are holding up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ters Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 23 hours ago, Dartgame said: Ters - just noted you are in South Africa, so my comments may not be that useful. Good to hear the 7 1/4's in your hot rod slant 6's are holding up. Sunny South Africa yes sir...all right hand drive models to boot. No such thing as a useless comment, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 8, 2021 Report Share Posted June 8, 2021 I have one of your SA tags here at the house.....this and an Ethiopian license plate of which I owned the car it was on right after importing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ters Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 On 6/8/2021 at 6:03 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: I have one of your SA tags here at the house.....this and an Ethiopian license plate of which I owned the car it was on right after importing. Wow, North West Province! https://www.britannica.com/place/North-West-province-South-Africa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 12, 2021 Report Share Posted June 12, 2021 thank you.....I was thinking the NW was for the North West Providence.....but had no real clue....I think I snagged this tag at a swap meet for just a couple bucks and got it because it is just that different...would you know if the CHG would denote a city/township within the Providence? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattimuss Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 I'm sure this has been asked before, so please forgive me if it has... Wouldn't a Dodge Dakota/Durango diff work better? Or a Dodge RAM diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted June 14, 2021 Report Share Posted June 14, 2021 Just now, mattimuss said: I'm sure this has been asked before, so please forgive me if it has... Wouldn't a Dodge Dakota/Durango diff work better? Or a Dodge RAM diff? Thats a fair question .... imho, what really is best? Depends what you want the end product to be. You need a proper gear ratio to work for your engine transmission. You need proper brakes for your braking system ... Does your new rear end have disk brakes? Now you need proper master cylinder and proportioning valves to work the brakes. You need to get the width right & also wheel bolt pattern. You do need to do your homework when doing a rear end swap. For the average old Mopar, can use a old Ford 8.8 or a jeep rear end with drum brakes ... use stock master cylinder, will need to modify u-joint, And grind off old mounting stands and weld on new ones to mount it ... You could take a Ford 9" rear end and narrow it, spend $2k building it ... For the most part, a old Ford explorer or a jeep cherokee is the right brakes, u-joint, bolt pattern, width ... You just need to change the spring perches to mount it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ters Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 On 6/12/2021 at 4:23 PM, Plymouthy Adams said: thank you.....I was thinking the NW was for the North West Providence.....but had no real clue....I think I snagged this tag at a swap meet for just a couple bucks and got it because it is just that different...would you know if the CHG would denote a city/township within the Providence? I do know yes. The alphabetical prefix is not connected to a certain town or area. All vehicles registered in the province follows the alphabet and numerical count. Our provinces is the same as your states (we have 11 only), then municipal borders with towns? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattimuss Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 22 hours ago, Los_Control said: Thats a fair question .... imho, what really is best? Depends what you want the end product to be. You need a proper gear ratio to work for your engine transmission. You need proper brakes for your braking system ... Does your new rear end have disk brakes? Now you need proper master cylinder and proportioning valves to work the brakes. You need to get the width right & also wheel bolt pattern. You do need to do your homework when doing a rear end swap. For the average old Mopar, can use a old Ford 8.8 or a jeep rear end with drum brakes ... use stock master cylinder, will need to modify u-joint, And grind off old mounting stands and weld on new ones to mount it ... You could take a Ford 9" rear end and narrow it, spend $2k building it ... For the most part, a old Ford explorer or a jeep cherokee is the right brakes, u-joint, bolt pattern, width ... You just need to change the spring perches to mount it. Thanks Los! I guess I just thought the Dakota/Durango/RAM would be easier. Maybe, subconsciously at least, I just hate putting other car manufacture's parts in a Mopar... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Los_Control Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 1 minute ago, mattimuss said: Thanks Los! I guess I just thought the Dakota/Durango/RAM would be easier. Maybe, subconsciously at least, I just hate putting other car manufacture's parts in a Mopar... I cant argue with you there. You hear all the time about a Dakota or Chebby S10 frame swaps ... they seem to work. But ya never hear of someone swapping a Dakota or S10 rear end into a stock frame? I have heard of others liking the older dodges ... A duster or plymouth volare, These are classified as A or B body, I have no clue ... they work good but they are hard to find. If you have one laying around, sell it for big bucks and buy something else? If your engine, transmission is stock, the 3:73 gears are a perfect starting point. The Explorer or Jeep that is early 1990's have drum brakes They are readily available at a local wrecking yard. You can pick one up for less then $200, all your brakes are available at local parts store. You can buy spring perches at Tractor supply for $20. Just like my 1991 chebby, I need to buy 2 ujoints of different years, then mix match the caps and have a working u-joint. No reason to get hurt over brand affiliation. A transmission was built by Borg Warner or whoever then used the bolt pattern for the buyer. Same thing with rear ends, all built by Dayton or whoever ... same product but a different packaging & mounting .... And there is almost no support for these older mopar, ya kinda need to search elsewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 15, 2021 Report Share Posted June 15, 2021 ask about conversion u-joints...these are already factory mix and match for your application.....Neapco is the forerunner on these if I recall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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