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Rear End swap


Crisjr14

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Good Morning would like to ask for more advise from you  experts once again in here ok here is my situation I am currently doing a rear end swap on my 1953 dodge meadow Brook that some of you have responded to with so much help I was told a ranger rear end would work so I purchased a used 1988 for ranger rear end and am currently trying to see what needs to be done so far I understand I will need to change flange to differential as well as need to cut and re weld the perches for my u bolts and brackets for my shocks and add some spacers to get my wheels to fit where they were but here is where I need the experience of you in here would it be possible to also use the leave springs from the ranger and just add new brackets as well to my '53 frame that way I can use hopefully rear end and leave springs any help would be greatly appreciated thank you all also I am adding the pictures of what i have tooken so far as well as pictures from my '53 manual specs

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the forward spring hanger is already at width of the frame where it mounts now and is riveted in place...you can do as you wish but I have never found a need to change the spring format other than perch location to the donor axle for install.  You can...graft an extension to the inner side of the frame and weld here to widen the forward mount and cut the inside up right and weld a upright a bit wide to the opening of the newer spring....keep in mind you want this to be an "L" and weld back to the original bracket cut and and also to the newly added extension with your holes aligned properly for the silent block.  It is doable, considered this very thing myself but again, closer study did not prove it advantageous over stock springs.  Now if perches to retrofit to the donor were an issue in source and cost...then it would deserve another look-see.....odds are your mind is already made up as to what you want to do and you are here to seek a blessing or maybe forgiveness....your car, you goals, your money....the mopar gods are in good spirits today...go forth with their blessings...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Get new perches, tractor supply has them. Use your existing springs, can't see any benefit to using the ranger springs. After you cut the perches off of the new axle, chuck it in there, don't tighten the u bolts too tight. Put the wheels back on and put it back down on the ground. Set your pinion angle and make sure you're good left to right. Tack weld the perches. Jack it up and either weld it where it sits or pull it back out and weld it. Can't offer advice on the spacers, I use Cherokee axles and the stock wheels bolt right up. A good driveline shop can make or modify your driveline. 

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it is easier to match the angle of your existing factory set correct and tested pinion angle in regard to the perches and just duplicate that to the donor and be done one operation...now if you have set another engine and tranny in this upgrade...default to the two step if you did not take your calculation when setting the eng/trans combo

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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Mackthefinger so these are the rims and tires off my '53 on the ranger rear end mocked up just to verify it will work so I know I will definitely need to add the spacers to bring the rims and tires out but so far seems to be lining up ok I think but I'm no expert dont mind the cancer above the tire lol

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look up and read on using centric hub and wheels when mounting to an axle/spindle and when they do not match the application of a centric ring.....many feel on these cars with their lower speed and what not this is not a point worth pondering longer than a fart will last in a whirlwind...your call, you can go stud centric if you wish.....but at least you should be familiar with the terms and application when it come to your car and your retrofitting.   quick search of terms on the internet nets great articles for your reading pleasure and bring you up to speed on what you are really working with.....

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Ok so I'm a little confused here so the picture with the 2 lugs the smaller one is the ones that came off of the '53 and the taller black one is what was being used on the ranger rear end so when I add the spacers to bring out my rims and tires I will have to get lugs like these chrome ones like in the other picture am i correct that will hold together correct?

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I think you could have found a better suited donor axle.....adding spacers to an axle you really need to think the centric application over a bit closer.....IMHO it is not wise to set a non centric spacer/adapter then set a non centric wheel to that spacer/adapter.....you should take break, grab a coffee and contemplate what you doing and where you are going with this build.  Lugnuts match the wheel bolt seat....some are standard conical, some are bulge and the universal aftermarket are usually shank....match the wheel as factory stock....this is the clamping force that is needed to keep the wheel on the car...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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While searching for a rear end for a swap a few years ago, I was offered a ranger rear for free. I passed on it.

While strong enough for a flat six, really is a smaller weaker example in ford line up.  And too narrow.

Sometimes free gets expensive. Many do run wheel spacers for different reasons .... You need good quality so you can trust them.

I would guess the cost of good spacers would approach the price of a used explorer or jeep cherokee rear end that fits and is actually stronger not weaker then what you replacing.

Just my 2 cents.

 

The first photo, the lugs are technically the same and would work. The left lug is a modern decorative acorn lug nut. Meant to dress up modern wheels.

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Thinking about this problem. When I measured my ranger rear end, it actually was a Bronco II rear end. I think they share same platform, rear end as the ranger.

I also with my best guestemation with wheels installed and sitting on the ground, I guessed it was 2" narrower then a stock 49 dodge rear end.

Thats only 1" on each side. Stock wheels may actually work as is, but look silly as the front track will be wider then the rear track ... rear wheel well will have way to much room in it.

Solution, wider wheel with a offset ;)

Will need rear end installed and sitting on suspension to decide if wheels will work or need spacers. I would go with wheels if I could.

Summit selling a 7" steel smoothie for $105. But possible searching craigs list or swap meets can find good used ones.

 

In the opposite direction, last summer I talked with a guy with a B1C & needed a rear end swap. He went with a early 90's chebby truck with 5 on 5 bolt pattern.

Was 2" wider then stock. 1" on each side. He installed Cadillac rims on it with a different backspacing all the way around and loves it. Gives the appearance the rear tires are a little wider then the front, but actually the same.

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Ranger rear axle on my radar, a target width at 56 1/2 WMS is the correct number as the 49 width is narrow and limits my donor pool.

the ranger had a 2' offset to passenger side to center of pumpkin. Is this an issue?

what about a main gear or  pumpkin swamp?Is this doable?

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 2 inches even in a sedan is not much.....but something to keep an eye on....will not affect the phasing given you use good perches...the rear bushings are not shot and I have never seen a bad silent block yet but would never go forward without checking it...but yes...the 49 is the most narrow one year application axle and this may be your ticket home...   

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  • 1 month later...

I bought a B body 8 3/4 rear end for my Chrysler. I used this chart to help pick out the rear end that was closest in size. I have to relocate spring perches as I'm not going to bind the leafs in 1 1/2" on each side.

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On 3/18/2021 at 12:14 PM, Plymouthy Adams said:

 2 inches even in a sedan is not much.....but something to keep an eye on....will not affect the phasing given you use good perches...the rear bushings are not shot and I have never seen a bad silent block yet but would never go forward without checking it...but yes...the 49 is the most narrow one year application axle and this may be your ticket home...   

2" OS is not doable in my world (plus the tunnel) I would rather have a custom 3.27 rear for flatlanders

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  • 1 month later...

Anyone fit a 7.25 from an A-body, post '72 has the same 5X4.5 bolt pattern? Sure the 8.8/9" are stout, but overkill on a stock 6L? Plus, they are heavy....

 

Ters. 

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Well, I have a 7 1/4 in my 65 Barracuda and an 8 3/4 to go in it's place.  But to be honest, with the exception of gear ratios, I'd keep the original rear end before I put a 7 1/4 in. 

 

As for your question, I haven't measured it out.

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