230 Dodge truck engine value.

[ratfinkxxx]

I have a chance to buy a 230 from a 50 Dodge truck. Complete including trans, bellhousing, pedals etc. All still bolted together. Ran when parked. Engine turns over. What would be a fair price? I'm looking to upgrade the tired 201 in my 36 Plymouth. Thanks in advance.

[greg g]

Running with good compression?  I got mine which I rebuilt for 200 15 years ago.  I may be out of touch but if I can't see it start and run see the oil reassure and of it's not a smoker, then it's a rebuildable core. no more than 300 to 500 at most.

[ratfinkxxx]

Not running now. Hanging from a cherry picker. He wants $500.

Edited March 5, 2021 by ratfinkxxx

[Sniper]

I bought one from Frenchlake Auto in WI not so long ago, Dec of last year.  $514 delivered to my house, in TX.  That included paying $250 for the engine, as a rebuildable core, $225 for shipping and $39.19 in taxes.

 

If you need/want the extra stuff it might be worth more to you, but I seem to recall an issue with real early flatheads not being compatible with later ones, I think the starter location was the issue?  Maybe someone who knows the details better than me can chime in and let us know.

 

$250 is about where I am on a good core 230 by itself.

 

 

[ratfinkxxx]

Sniper thanks for your input. It's a moot point now. The seller just messaged me it is sold.

greg g thank you also for responding.

Edited March 5, 2021 by ratfinkxxx

[knuckleharley]

3 hours ago, ratfinkxxx said:

Not running now. Hanging from a cherry picker. He wants $500.

 

If the plugs look clean,NOT NEW,the engine shows compression when your turn it over by hand,and the oil looks to be used and good,not new,it looks like a hell of a deal to me. Let's face it,the trans,bellhousing,and pedals being a part of the deal really sweetens it,and 500 bucks ain't what it used to be.

.

Neither is the ready availability of complete motor and tranmission units. The trans is easy to check. Put it in neutral and pull the top plate with the shift lever,and look at the gears and brass rings. Truthfully,that trans and bellhousing witht he pedals,clutch,and pressure plate is probably worth 500 bucks these days to a lot of people.

 

OOPS! Just noticed it was from a 1950 pu. Wouldn't that make it a 218?

Edited March 5, 2021 by knuckleharley

[Young Ed]

17 hours ago, Sniper said:

I bought one from Frenchlake Auto in WI not so long ago, Dec of last year.  $514 delivered to my house, in TX.  That included paying $250 for the engine, as a rebuildable core, $225 for shipping and $39.19 in taxes.

 

If you need/want the extra stuff it might be worth more to you, but I seem to recall an issue with real early flatheads not being compatible with later ones, I think the starter location was the issue?  

 

French lake is in MN and the starter issue only applies to the really early 6s with the exposed cylinder shape and no lower water jackets. 

[Sniper]

55 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

French lake is in MN and the starter issue only applies to the really early 6s with the exposed cylinder shape and no lower water jackets. 

 

Thanks for the location update, all those frozen states looks the same from here, lol.

 

The OP has a 36 Plymouth, when is the really early engine cut off date?  I can't recall that.

[knuckleharley]

4 hours ago, Young Ed said:

French lake is in MN and the starter issue only applies to the really early 6s with the exposed cylinder shape and no lower water jackets. 

Thank you! I did not know this. Got to try to remember to take a look at the flat 6 engine that came with my 33 Dodge that I was TOLD was the "original engine".

[Young Ed]

5 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

Thanks for the location update, all those frozen states looks the same from here, lol.

 

The OP has a 36 Plymouth, when is the really early engine cut off date?  I can't recall that.

33-34 only for plymouth. 

[Sniper]

Thank you.  So the OP should be ok with a later 23" flathead.

[Merle Coggins]

22 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

Thanks for the location update, all those frozen states looks the same from here, lol.

 

 

I believe you were one of “those frozen states” just a couple of weeks ago... ?

[Sniper]

41 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

 

I believe you were one of “those frozen states” just a couple of weeks ago... ?

lol, true, allow me to revise and extend my comments to read "normally frozen states"

[knuckleharley]

21 hours ago, Young Ed said:

33-34 only for plymouth. 

So my 33 Dodge engine won't look different than a 46 Dodge engine on the outside?

BTW,what is the displacement on an original 33 Dodge car engine?

[Young Ed]

48 minutes ago, knuckleharley said:

So my 33 Dodge engine won't look different than a 46 Dodge engine on the outside?

BTW,what is the displacement on an original 33 Dodge car engine?

It might. I'm not sure if they mimicked each other or not. I think those early ones were something like a 176

[knuckleharley]

22 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

It might. I'm not sure if they mimicked each other or not. I think those early ones were something like a 176

Thanks. I never really paid any attention to the engine when I bought the car. It had already been taken out,and I was told by the previous owner that "It's too worn out to rebuild,so I bought the 318 siting next to the car to replace it." Since both came with the car,I took both home,thinking I would sell the 318 and put the flat 6 in it. Then I found and bought a 1955 Plymouth flat 6 to put in it. When the 33 sells at my estate sale,the pround new owner will also get the worn original engine and trans to do with as he wishes.

[greg g]

35 was the change to fully jacketed block casting.

[knuckleharley]

2 hours ago, greg g said:

35 was the change to fully jacketed block casting.

Thanks,Greg!

[Mister B]

On 3/7/2021 at 12:30 PM, knuckleharley said:

Thanks. I never really paid any attention to the engine when I bought the car. It had already been taken out,and I was told by the previous owner that "It's too worn out to rebuild,so I bought the 318 siting next to the car to replace it." Since both came with the car,I took both home,thinking I would sell the 318 and put the flat 6 in it. Then I found and bought a 1955 Plymouth flat 6 to put in it. When the 33 sells at my estate sale,the pround new owner will also get the worn original engine and trans to do with as he wishes.

Was the 55 Plymouth a fairly simple swap into your car? I'm going to buy an engine from the same year Plymouth for my 48 Dodge D24 but it has a 2 speed automatic behind it. Starting to have trouble out of the fluid drive that is in it now and wondered how difficult the swap may be.

[knuckleharley]

24 minutes ago, Mister B said:

Was the 55 Plymouth a fairly simple swap into your car? I'm going to buy an engine from the same year Plymouth for my 48 Dodge D24 but it has a 2 speed automatic behind it. Starting to have trouble out of the fluid drive that is in it now and wondered how difficult the swap may be.

I will be using the 33 bellhousing and trans,and don't predict any problems.

 

The VA has been wanting to amputate my left leg since 1982,but I have managed to keep it so far. My plans for the 2 speed auto are to put it in my 42 Dodge coupe. I may be wrong,but since both the 42 and the 55 engine are 230's,this shouldn't be a problem. I guess I will find out when/if I ever get started on the 42. I got an almost complete 55 4dr with the 2 speed auto as a parts car for 250 bucks,so it's no big deal money-wise if I can't use the trans. I know I am not missing anything because it is all still bolted together in the original 55.

[Mister B]

The problem with my fluid drive is that I can,t get it to go into reverse. Plus, when it idles in neutral, there is a clunking noise that comes and goes. It sounds like something is loose inside the bell housing, but it's not a constant noise. Could the reverse issue be just a matter of linkage adjustment? Also, if you use the 2 speed auto, how would you address the shifting since the 55 shifted from the dash?

By the way, thanks for your service! I too am a veteran and also a North Carolina resident.

[knuckleharley]

1 hour ago, Mister B said:

The problem with my fluid drive is that I can,t get it to go into reverse. Plus, when it idles in neutral, there is a clunking noise that comes and goes. It sounds like something is loose inside the bell housing, but it's not a constant noise. Could the reverse issue be just a matter of linkage adjustment? Also, if you use the 2 speed auto, how would you address the shifting since the 55 shifted from the dash?

By the way, thanks for your service! I too am a veteran and also a North Carolina resident.

Sorry,but my total knowledge of them is that I own one.

 

I have been planning on using the original dash shift lever and cable. Probably in a panel bolted to the bottom of the dash.