ChrisMinelli Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 My 52 Plymouth (23” original block) has been neglected in the cooling department and I am making plans to remedy that this spring. The original radiator is in the car and it’s seen better days. Doesn’t look like it’s been cleaned in many years. The former owner didn’t know what a water distribution tube was when I asked him, so as far as I know it hasn’t been changed in many years either. The car had a tendency to overheat when it is sitting. The former owner “fixed” this by mounting an electric cooling fan to the radiator with bolts... clean through it. The radiator “weeps” (hard to say leak, it isn’t much) at the places the bolts run through. I want to keep the original radiator if at all possible. Do you think a full cleaning and changing the water distribution tube will do the trick? The end goal is to remove the fan — make it not necessary to have any add on parts to cool the system. If I unbolt the fan and the radiator starts gushing, what options do I have out there? I’m hesitant to use NOS because of price / age but then again those new aluminum Chinese radiators look a little funny in an old car. Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plymouthcranbrook Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Do you have an old time radiator repair shop anywhere near you? I had mine done(although several years ago) and had no further trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Cope Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Hi Chris, I have a 39 Ply, last summer the honey comb radiator started leaking. Took the radiator to Custom Auto Radiator, Lacey, N.J. (609-242-9700). The shop specializes is brass radiators. They disassembled, used the original top, bottom and sides & made up a new more efficient brass core. The top was originally painted, shop ask if I wanted it polished for a nominal fee. I was very satisfied with the constructions / soldering and the polishing was more than expected. The new core isn't honeycomb. While it was apart, I had another shop powder coat the side braces, however believe Custom Auto Radiator can also do. On the bottom, added a fitting so a temperature probe could be added. When I had the radiator off, added a pusher fan which also purchased from the shop. The fan isn't noticeable unless one looks through the grill, or can hear the motor running. Don't plan on using the fan all of the time, however on those summer days when the temp is in the high 90's and stuck in traffic takes some stress away. If you would like to see photo, let me know. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doug&Deb Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Another thing to check is the amount of sludge in the block. When you open the drain valve on the block does it drain? Some of these engines have leftover sand from the casting process. When mine was torn down the amount of crap that came out was amazing. Check each component and you’ll solve the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dartgame Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 I investigated repairing my brass oem radiator when I was getting it running. Local radiator shop wanted a small fortune to recore it. They claimed it could not be repaired without a recore. I found an Aluminum radiator on ebay for dirt cheap and went that way. I could not see spending the money on the oe rad, and still be using a 70 year old part. Paint the tanks black if you dont like the bare AL appearance....my .02 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisMinelli Posted February 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 On 2/19/2021 at 2:56 PM, Dartgame said: I investigated repairing my brass oem radiator when I was getting it running. Local radiator shop wanted a small fortune to recore it. They claimed it could not be repaired without a recore. I found an Aluminum radiator on ebay for dirt cheap and went that way. I could not see spending the money on the oe rad, and still be using a 70 year old part. Paint the tanks black if you dont like the bare AL appearance....my .02 Can I use regular old black spray paint for aluminum, or should I get some of that high temperature paint I see sometimes? 220-ish seems a little high temp for regular paint but I may be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted February 22, 2021 Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) I bought a Champion aluminum radiator at a reasonable price on eBay.......fit the space perfectly on my 47 Plymouth. However, I did not want the shiny aluminum sides and top tank. So I covered the honeycomb front & rear....then sprayed it with Krylon Maxx gloss black.... Like the look and it seems to work OK. As I recall, I am using a cap with 4 pounds of pressure (NAPA 703-1412) ($6.29) ....since these still are not a pressurized system. A cap with higher pressure came on the radiator....I think 14 or 16 pounds. You have to furnish your own overflow hose and clamps for it. I had a welder take a pie cut in the upper radiator hose neck to give it a downward angle.....to more closely resemble the original angle of the original radiator neck. Champion had a couple phone numbers: 714-987-2665 or 714-974-1650. Regular price at the time of my purchase in Aug of 2018 was $219.98 and it was on sale for $204.98 plus shipping of $29.95. Hope this info makes sense.... Edited February 22, 2021 by BobT-47P15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 22, 2021 Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 There is special paint for radiators, most paint acts as an insulator. https://www.eastwood.com/ew-radiator-black-12oz-satin-finish.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 22, 2021 Report Share Posted February 22, 2021 I wonder if a local radiator shop would give a new aftermarket one purchased elsewhere a proper coating of the stuff they use in bulk purchases at a reasonable price.?? We still have two old school shops locally that are really nice people that just may but cannot say for sure as I left the two Champion radiator that I have installed in old Plymouths the natural finish. Worth a visit? DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 I would ask. The worst they can say is "no". You may have to remove the rad and take to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobT-47P15 Posted February 24, 2021 Report Share Posted February 24, 2021 This picture shows the original radiator on the left and the new one after the pie cut of the neck. It was not a large piece of metal removed from the neck (in fact I wish it had been just a smidge bigger for more angle)...... 4 pound pressure cap from NAPA. They may likely have to order it but mine arrived the next day or two. One person in some shop told me it doesn't make all that much difference about which type paint you use (at least on the tank and sides) of a rad. I did leave the core original--no paint. Hope this helps some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poor454 Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 DJ194950 where at in ca is the local shop for the radiator to get build at. I'm in norcal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blucarsdn Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 I have used an aluminum racing radiator from Summit Racing on three car builds. The radiator I use is a 19" x 25-3/4" which is rated for 500 hp, the intended use is as a cross flow. We stand the radiator up, then we use a Summit aluminum shroud, w/electric fan made to fit the radiator. My '39 Plym is a 330 hp V8 w/AOD, PS and AC, the car runs at a constant 195.. Wm 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 4 hours ago, poor454 said: DJ194950 where at in ca is the local shop for the radiator to get build at. I'm in norcal. First off do you want a stock type? Do you have a core with tanks/ top and bottom/ mounting brackets that can be reused? If you are willing to buy a alum. one new that is the cheapest and do cool well. The Champion brand mentioned on this forum often has worked well on 3 differant old Plymouths that I have worked on. As far as some good radiator shops in norcal where I am at in Modesto there are two that I have dealt with here but every bigger town in the valley has at least one- Sacramento, Stockton, Modesto, Merced, etc. Depends where you live. A copper stock type recore with your used parts usually runs 4-5 hundred $$. More for 3-4 row heavier duty stups. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 1 hour ago, blucarsdn said: I have used an aluminum racing radiator from Summit Racing on three car builds. The radiator I use is a 19" x 25-3/4" which is rated for 500 hp, the intended use is as a cross flow. We stand the radiator up, then we use a Summit aluminum shroud, w/electric fan made to fit the radiator. My '39 Plym is a 330 hp V8 w/AOD, PS and AC, the car runs at a constant 195.. Wm Tell me about those valve covers? I see two center bolts and no perimeter bolts. I like the look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobK Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 I'm thinking ya need a bowtie to get those valve covers. Quick...... someone sedate Frank Elder. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 5 minutes ago, BobK said: I'm thinking ya need a bowtie to get those valve covers. Quick...... someone sedate Frank Elder. By George, you are right. looks like someone's wearing a falsie, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted February 27, 2021 Report Share Posted February 27, 2021 Definitely. a Chev.. One pic shows the bowtie emblem. Mid years of GM small blocks changed to what in commonly know as center bolt heads and valve covers. Me- -I know Nuthin' - honest Coronal Clink!! DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted February 28, 2021 Report Share Posted February 28, 2021 I for one do not like to use an Aluminum Radiator as it requires that I run anti-freeze. In California these days, it is not considered nice to dump water with coolant on the ground ? So, I keep to copper and I run water soluble oil so that I can dump my water without any environmental effects. If I am going up to Reno or the mountains and expect it to get cold, I just dump in some alcohol as it works just fine as anti-freeze and last a couple of months. It too can be dumped on the ground. I use Beco Radiator Cores in Concord CA. They are not cheap. They do the best work. However, they are the core manufacture for most of the radiator shops in Northern California. So, they do not advertise the fact that they will rebuild a radiator. They also only take cash, they had too many deadbeat checks. They took my tanks for both the 1947 and 1949 Desoto and put in new high efficiency dimple tube cores. They work very well. They also did my friends 1937 Cadillac and his 1946 Chrysler Town & Country Convertible. All have been fine. You have to take the radiator out and walk in with it. James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blucarsdn Posted February 28, 2021 Report Share Posted February 28, 2021 I have to admit that the engine in my Plym is a SBC, 2001 330 hp Vortec.. In the late '90's when we were planning the rebuild for the '39 there were not many good Chrysler small blocks available, I know that in the Mopar world that is a debatable subject, most Mopar people I talked to could only speak Hemi, which to me is antique technology from the '50's, not a good option for a nice smooth streetable car. It was quite interesting that when I switched from the original GM valve covers to the after-market billet covers with the 318 decals, nine out of ten people at car shows thought the engine was a 318/340/360 Mopar. The distributor being in the wrong place, never occurred to most people. Wm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted February 28, 2021 Report Share Posted February 28, 2021 (edited) MoPar smallblocks, Gen I hemis and SBC have the distributor in the rear. It's the BBM and Gen II Hemis that have them up front. The Gen III Hemis have no distributor. Edited February 28, 2021 by Sniper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted March 2, 2021 Report Share Posted March 2, 2021 On 2/28/2021 at 7:05 AM, James_Douglas said: I for one do not like to use an Aluminum Radiator as it requires that I run anti-freeze. In California these days, it is not considered nice to dump water with coolant on the ground ? So, I keep to copper and I run water soluble oil so that I can dump my water without any environmental effects. If I am going up to Reno or the mountains and expect it to get cold, I just dump in some alcohol as it works just fine as anti-freeze and last a couple of months. It too can be dumped on the ground. I use Beco Radiator Cores in Concord CA. They are not cheap. They do the best work. However, they are the core manufacture for most of the radiator shops in Northern California. So, they do not advertise the fact that they will rebuild a radiator. They also only take cash, they had too many deadbeat checks. They took my tanks for both the 1947 and 1949 Desoto and put in new high efficiency dimple tube cores. They work very well. They also did my friends 1937 Cadillac and his 1946 Chrysler Town & Country Convertible. All have been fine. You have to take the radiator out and walk in with it. James. Not to sidetrack the conversation but Why? Seems like a lot of trouble and it's not 1950 anymore.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted March 2, 2021 Report Share Posted March 2, 2021 I'm a bit perplexed as to why anyone would dump coolant on the ground. And why wouldn't everyone want to run anti-freeze year round? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted March 2, 2021 Report Share Posted March 2, 2021 Many auto parts places accept used oils /filters/ antifreeze in plastic jugs at their stores in Ca. Our local garbage company will pick up at my house after calling them and schedule a pickup at my house the same day as normal garbage pickup. Last time I used the service they would pick up 6 gallons-labeled as to contents in plastic bottles.. Cannot believe as the liberal capital of Calif. has nothing for the environment.??? DJ (central Ca.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James_Douglas Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 (edited) Here in The City most of the old building have garage drains. Sometimes things leak. The ceilings in a 1922 garage are barely 7 feet and with heater ducts sometimes less. Just to get a radiator out we have to roll the car onto the street. Every couple of years, I flush the engine block out. You cannot do that with anti-freeze in it. Even if you do happen to capture it, the local hazmat will not take a container with more than 5 gallons. If you try to bring more, they send you home. Since soluable oil is easy and will not harm the environment, I don't bother with anti-freeze. Like I said, if I go to the mountains, I just pour in some alcohol and it is good for a few months. Also, Water wetter and soluable oil will run cool even under some nasty conditions. I had to go over the mountains some years back, over 5000 feet, on a very hot summer day. The engine temp hit 215-220 and did not boil over. At that altitude it should have at 198F or close. The 1947 is not pressurized. All I had was water wetter and soluable oil in the cooling system. James Edited March 4, 2021 by James_Douglas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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