Jump to content

Carter B&B: The worst carburetor ever made?! Discuss...


wagoneer

Recommended Posts

Just now, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

Yes, I bought the cast iron manifold/ headers from Langdon’s and they fit well to the factory intake. Only down side so far is losing the fuel pump and I needed to make special tabs to hold the manifolds.  For now, I’m going to keep the factory split exhaust manifolds, may change my mind down the road.

I see nothing at all wrong with the factory split manifolds if you are talking about the ones that came on the big Dodge trucks.

My dislike for split manifolds is that you are destroying a set of rare exhaust manifolds when you do it,and "they ain't making them anymore".

 

Don't get me wrong,I would happily buy a pair someone else split in the past if the work looked good and the price were right,but *I* won't be cutting up a good exhaust manifold or two to get "there" myself.

 

Been looking for one for my flat  Ford now for years. Sooner or later I will run into someone that has one that is looking for a stock exhaust manifold for a restoration,or I will just break down and make tubular headers. Right now I am still driving the car,and have no intention of taking it apart until I already have every part I think I am going to need sitting in my shop floor.

 

The funny part is people keep trying to buy it off me because they love the "rat look",which I acheived by sanding away all visable rust and paint over the spots with whatever paint I had handy in rattle cans.

 

This is sorta what I want it to look like when done,but with full moon disc hubcaps and door handles.

 

 

Yellow Coupe.jpg-1.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

Yes, for the 25” motor. Picture was a mock up. Just had them bead blasted and installing this evening. I am choosing to use Langdon’s Headers over the factory exhaust for now and see how this works out.

I am eaten alive with envy!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Sniper said:

I was under the impression that they do not interfere with the non vacuum style fuel pump, at least not on a 23" block?  I asked that question here just to avoid issues.

I’m not sure on the 23”, I only have fit them up to the 25” motor I’m working on. They may have slightly cleared without the fuel bowl on the pump, but don’t like how close that would be with heat transfer.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

often times things are just to simple for those that live in a complicated world....

 

Can't tell you how many times I've grinned motoring down a nice two-lane in the P15 thinking about that puny little single-barrel doing its thing with no complaints.

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree @Sam Buchanan. Thinking it through while reading the responses, somehow it doesn't matter whether the BB-1 is the best or worst is neither here nor there. It works very well for cruising in my C38. For my needs, it does the job well enough. It's simplicity is actually a boon for me to learn without screwing it up.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

15 hours ago, 47 dodge 1.5 ton said:

I’m not sure on the 23”, I only have fit them up to the 25” motor I’m working on. They may have slightly cleared without the fuel bowl on the pump, but don’t like how close that would be with heat transfer.

 

Guys,

    Full disclosure: Right up front, I've been a friend of Tom Langdon for over 45 years. I have tremendous respect for Tom as an Automotive Engineer and as a National Record holding NHRA drag racer.

    His 25" cast manifolds are absolutely wonderful! I have them installed on my 25" engine in my D-24 Business Coupe. I ran this set-up all last summer in 100+ degree weather here in Kingman AZ, with NO heat transfer issues.

    By the way, I'm not running any 'trick' cooling system outfits. My swap utilizes the STOCK honeycomb radiator and the STOCK fuel pump (with the glass bowl). There are no electric fuel pumps or electric fans!

Walt

 

 IMG_2092.JPG.5b0cb23d1e834cdde07897729fcb7ad7.JPG

  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very nice looking set-up! I’m not out in the shop this am but think my pump looks different from what you have on there? I tried to put the front header on and couldn’t, so removed the pump and plated off, not a big issue in my mind. I thought they looked like a very nice quality product and decided to go that route over the factory dual manifolds. I am actually more concerned about valve cover clearance as I need to adjust one valve on #4 that keeps moving but think I can get in there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

did we get off topic here? thats ok cuz Im trying to catch me breath after looking at D24s 3 Strombergs(?) From my experience the accelerator pumps can be problematic.

every fuel system needs a inline filter. Either get a rebuild kit with a ethanol friendly parts for your B&B or and dont run corn gas

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, michaelmarks697@yahoo.com said:

did we get off topic here?

 

 

 

 

 

Hahahaha! This forum is the King of off topic.......LOL! My 2 cents, there are better carbs and worse carbs but if you are a purist (I am not.) getting the carbs that came on your engine from the factory should be your focus. They are some leaky 70 year old messes that you have to tweak, cajole and cuss at but they will work fine once you figure out their problems. If you are looking for more power dual manifold with two one bbbls are my choice.......you can’t have in without out, dual headers complete the package.

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, allbizz49 said:

Don't give up on the search for headers knuckleharley. I bought these, pretty much new, for 150 bucks. Deals are out there.

Screenshot_20210212-073029_Gallery.jpg

Thanks! I love the sound of the cast iron ones over the tubular steel ones.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The BB has issues after decades of use with the emulsion tubes. You need a special tool to get them out and then you needs to find new ones to put in.

 

On the 1947 Desoto with fluid drive, I went nuts trying to get the carb to work correct. I rebuilt EVERYTHING but the emulsion tubes on two of them and it still idled and ran kind of crappy. I then found a later NOS version that had the screw dashpot. I have used it for 15 years now and it works great. I just wired the choke open, here in San Francisco it just does not need it, although I need to let it warm up for 5 minutes and take it easy on the throttle for another 5 when I head out until it is all warmed up.

 

I think the lead in the gas "sandblasted" the emulsion tubes and the passages over the decades and toss of the balance of the internals. That is my 2 cents worth.

 

James

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/11/2021 at 7:09 PM, JBNeal said:

In NC, you can still buy ethanol free gas at some stations. It’s a bit more expensive but I run only ethanol free gas.

 

is that not an option around the country? There are sites dedicated to compiling  those ethanol free stations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ethanol-free gasoline is now more available than it was 5 yrs ago in TX but only at newer stations with the capacity for it, so it is a challenge to find from town to town without prior planning.  When I saw the price for the vintage blend, I calculated the cost of adding MMO to each gallon, and whaddaya know, it was cheaper to add MMO to readily available ethanol blended gasoline than straight ethanol-free gasoline, by a small but significant margin...the cost difference compared to ethanol blend was 20 cents/gal for ethanol-blend + MMO vs 25 cents/gal for ethanol-free blend...since I already built a compartment in my truck toolbox for MMO storage, I can treat gasoline wherever it is available, when I remember to top off my dosing bottles :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having been a British car guy before getting into Mopars, this thread is like reading about how horrible the SU carburetors are. It is all in how how you take the time to understand them and make sure they are properly set up. I rebuilt SU carbs according to the book and, when you make sure the shafts are properly bushed and the jets are correct and properly centered they work flawlessly.  My BB experience is limited but when I did rebuild mine I made sure the shafts were not worn, the cover and body were flat and true, and I set the float lower than spec to compensate for today's fuels which are less dense than the fuels of 70 years ago.  I have not had any issues with the BB carb on my car and it is, in my opinion after 8,500 miles, a set and forget device.

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use