1950 B2 pilot house rack and pinion

[Rlopera44]

Hi my new project. On my 1950 pilot house is to install a rack and pinion kit but have trouble finding any information on it. Where to buy for my truck, there’s-a post on eBay for one supposed to fit on that truck but the seller can’t really make dedicated instructions for me to see available. 
i wonder if anyone has done this kind of work on their trucks and what input can they give me about it. I’ll appreciate any kind of help that any one can offer.

[ggdad1951]

As far as I know no such kit really exists w/o a full front end swap.  I know some on here have made their own.  Maybe there is and I've not seen it.  I'm sure someone on here will point out if I'm wrong.

 

[stylesadamson]

scroll down this thread....I found that a Jeep YJ PS setup works great

[Richie15]

Hi, I have been looking into IFS because the straight axle set up from stock will do shimmy once at speeds above 55 mph...caster and camber not right for say, interstate speeds. I'd like to be corrected about this...maybe my shop is trying to sell an IFS kit + installation...at best $3000 total.

Anyway, back to the point...will rack &pinion set up and box the frame forward of the cab stable the steering issue that I am told will occur?

ebay seller ezsteer will supply power rack & pinion to your specs. $1000, they have gave me specific measurements needed.

Richie15

[David A.]

I’m not sure what model truck you are working on, but my 1950 B2B is completely stock other than having a 2.76 rear end from a Chrysler New Yorker under it for many years. It didn’t have any power, but it would move right along on the interstate. I have since put my original differential back under it with a 3.54 carrier from a plymouth sedan.   I have never had any steering issues. On one trip I drove mainly interstate, running 60-65 mph, from the tip of the eastern shore of Virginia to Harrisburg, PA and then back home to South Carolina. About a 800 mile trip. 

[Merle Coggins]

I agree... I've driven my truck down the interstate at 70+ on many occasions without any issues.

I suspect that you have other issues.

Is there any play in your king pins?

Have you checked the tie rod ends, and/or drag link ends?

Does your steering box need adjustment?

What is the condition of your tires? (a bad tire can do what you describe)

Have you checked/adjusted the toe in? 

[NiftyFifty]

here’s what I did on mine

[kencombs]

Solid axle frontends do not shimmy any more than any other type if properly aligned and no excessively worn parts are present.

 

Note every medium to heavy truck you see running the speed limit (or over!), has one.

 

Common causes are tie rod or drag link end wear and improper caster angle.  Weak shocks and out of balance tires can also trigger a similar 'feel'.

 

Edit:  On a side note, I am not a strong proponent of rack and pinion steering.  It works well of course, but on a beam axle the complications of changing to rack and pinion versus a good recirculating ball gear are not worth it IMHO. 

 

The older worm and pinion gears that 40s-50s trucks had are ok, but wear takes it s toll.  Recirculating ball boxes are almost as 'tight' as rack/pinion and much easier to retrofit and don't suffer from sliding contact wear.  Back in the day when they wore the dominate choice by every car maker, no parts store had a stock of replacement s.  No every parts seller has R&P units on hand, or a few hours away.

 

In new car use the R&P's advantages are compactness and economy of build.  Absent the cheaper purchase and the close quarters of mostly FWD cars, the recirculating ball gear would still be in the forefront.  Again, IMHO referencing mid to heavy truck use. My little Mitsubishi tilt cab box truck had well over 350k on it when sold.  Steering tight as needed, no leaks etc.

Edited February 19, 2021 by kencombs