Mertz Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 The floor boards are out. Top panel screws came out with impact driver. The bottom panel 2 bolts had to be cut off. The pedals are soaking in acid to remove rust. I now have a clear view of the engine mounts. It looks like if I remove the two back motor mount bolts I will trouble getting the motor past the frame rail. I probably will have trouble getting the bolts out through the rubber absorber anyway. Can I unbolt the bell housing or should I try to remove the 4 bolts that attach the bell housing to the motor mounts? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcotant Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 "Can I unbolt the bell housing or should I try to remove the 4 bolts that attach the bell housing to the motor mounts?" I have done it both ways. If you unbolt the bell housing from the engine there is less to pull out, but if the dog house is off it doesn't matter much, just threading through the frame. Problem with unbolting the engine from the bell housing is that you are under the truck to pull the clutch and flywheel because engine won't pull away with them on. Transmission has to be off in both situations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 If you have the repair manual for your PU, it will tell you if you need to remove the front clip or not. (Didn't look just now to confirm this, but I'm thinking that the 40 Plymouth CARS had to have the front clip removed. But not for the P15s.) But for many vehicles, you should only have to remove the hood, radiator & rad. support to be able to pull the engine with the bell housing attached. (Personally, I'd a whole lot rather remove the clutch & fly wheel with the engine out, but if you have a lift, that could make a lot of difference.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted January 27, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Only the cab is still on the frame with floor boards removed. It has a “floating power” front motor mount. It should pull out easily if I remove the 4 bolts from the motor mount. If I can remove the 2 motor mount bolts I will still have trouble with the narrowing front frame. If I have enough room to turn it I might get it over the frame. Repair manual just says remove mounting bolts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted January 27, 2021 Report Share Posted January 27, 2021 Remove the 4 bolts that go horizontally between bell housing and frame mounts. It will lift right out. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted January 28, 2021 Report Share Posted January 28, 2021 You may want to pull the bell housing with the engine, I know on mine I couldn’t get the flywheel off without a pile of difficulty from underneath, so I pulled it as one, less the transmission, but yes, those 4 bolts come out and it will definitely go. on the trucks it’s way easier to pull the front grill and fenders off to remove, no way you’re pulling that engine straight up with the hood removed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted January 29, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 My spare engine is an industrial engine. The crank nut is a 1 11/16” socket but the original engine is a different size. I just tried a 1 3/4” socket and it is to small but it is the largest in the kit I just bought. Anyone know what size socket I need to remove the crank nut? The original front motor mount is a floating power mount off the top of the timing chain cover but the industrial engine has a bottom mount so I want to change the covers to maintain the floating mount. I also need to get rid of an extra pulley on the new engine and install the original timing pulley Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 additional information - crank pulley nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 2, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 The weather improved some so I was out working in the shop removing my gas pedal linkage. While there I thought I would see if I could loosen the motor mount bolts. Surprisingly enough they came loose. So I thought why not hook up the hoist and see if I can pull them out. Out they came and before I knew it the engine was out. Why are they called motor mounts? Shouldn’t they be called engine mounts? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 4 minutes ago, Mertz said: Why are they called motor mounts? Shouldn’t they be called engine mounts? Good question. When I was growing up I got "schooled" on the difference between a 'motor' and an 'engine'. But it seems like it's been confused from way back. Like calling it a "Motor Car'. ('Engine Car', anyone?) Funny that no one ever switches them the other way, like "heater engine', or 'starter engine'.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 6 minutes ago, Mertz said: Why are they called motor mounts? Shouldn’t they be called engine mounts? That has always been a pet peeve of mine, I look at a motor being electrical and an engine combustion (fuel) I know "TECHICALLY" a motor can be an engine but I don't like it. ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Roach Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 It’s something like, what do you get when someone says “hand me the drill”??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eneto-55 Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 2 hours ago, Jim Roach said: It’s something like, what do you get when someone says “hand me the drill”??? My grandpa always called them 'drill motors', and he had a really old one that had that name on the side of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 13 hours ago, billrigsby said: That has always been a pet peeve of mine, I look at a motor being electrical and an engine combustion (fuel) I know "TECHICALLY" a motor can be an engine but I don't like it. ? I'm with you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) As I understand it, Editors at Websters study the language as it is used, and determine if a word, or word usage is included in their dictionary. Motor means "to move".......Engine is a metaphor. Its a hard pin down what the original use was intended for..... let me use my "search engine"...oops, where's the pistons in my computer again??? Words change meaning, They evolve. For example: "Dashboard" vs. “instrument panel”.....a dash board was literally a panel on a carriage to block debris from the trotting horses. The two are are interchangeable now. "General Motors" might be "General Engines"...though they do have an Engineering Dept "BMW" could be "BEW"...... German translation for “engine” is literally “motor” ....so its maybe both already. In France, they have one word for both engine and motor.... “moteur” Google Translate: "Motor: a machine, especially one powered by electricity or internal combustion, that supplies motive power for a vehicle or for some other device with moving parts." "Mouse Motor"...eh, maybe not a good example. ....I'm not a "motorist" anymore....I'm a "enginist" (hey, I like that one). Can't wait to tell the DEV (Dept of Engine Vehicles) Not to mention Mopar should be changed to Enpar.... ...guess I'll just keep "motoring on" using my own motor functions to get there. 408ci Edited February 3, 2021 by 48Dodger 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 too much time on your hands Tim? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 Enjoying your tear-down/build Mertz......I have several different year trucks, among them a 1938 Humpback. Are you keeping the original power-plant, or upgrading to something modern? 48D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 I’m keeping the truck as original as possible right down to using almost all the hardened steel fasteners. The “engine” will be replaced with an industrial version I got with the truck when I bought it. It is the same length and has been completely reworked including a 40 overbore. I’m trying to find out when it was built. Here is the engine number if anyone can decipher it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted February 3, 2021 Report Share Posted February 3, 2021 2 hours ago, 48Dodger said: In France, they have one word for both engine and motor.... “moteur” ...guess I'll just keep "motoring on" using my own motor functions to get there. 408ci And then there's a Motaur... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 4, 2021 Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 On 2/3/2021 at 10:27 AM, Mertz said: ...I’m trying to find out when it was built. Here is the engine number if anyone can decipher it. the engine block casting date is found below the distributor; the head casting date is found behind the ignition coil. additional information - Flathead Identification There may be an issue with the industrial cam as it was ground for basically 2 engine speeds: idle and WOT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2021 The engine was rebuilt hopefully with an appropriate cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 There is a A2 up high and a prominent 14 and a barely visible 52 below the dizzy. I assume it is a 1952. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2021 I’m confused the new motor is a 218 based on the id number on the block. IND5A The 52 would make sense as to the year built. To verify I removed the dirty from the original engine and there are 2 numbers, an 82 above a 28. I know it’s a 1940 engine so shouldn’t the 28 really be 40 or is there some code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted February 7, 2021 Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Posting a pic of the area of confusion might allow for further insight beyond the prior information linked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mertz Posted February 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2021 Here are some pictures. The first one is the industrial engine going in and second the original engine etures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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