Rusty48 Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 I am just starting a '48 P15 frame off restoration. I'm not a rookie but most certainly not an expert. I'm looking for a Standard part list and a list of factory body gap info. I'm sure I'll have countless other questions, as the project progresses. Thanks, in advance, for any and all info. This project was started by my brother-in-law, who is in the VA hospital, at this very moment. He received a heart transplant 2 months ago and contracted this ugly COVID-19 virus a week and a half ago. Things are touch and go so prayers would be greatly appreciated. The car is in better than fair condition right now. It needs some minor sheet metal replacement in the floor and I'm still undecided on keeping the original engine and trans or upgrading to a fresh 340 or even a late model 5.7 hemi. I'm in Texas so A/C is almost a must with the black paint job that has already been applied. Again, I've just taken over the project so I'm still getting organized. I'll add more later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tooljunkie Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Only thing i have to offer is about body gaps is i havent seen much regarding them. If you can get your fender gaps even, and hood centered thats a bonus. i had a battle with my 51 fargo, and doors were adjusted with a block of wood and pry bars. drivers door almost rubs the drip rail and passenger side has 1/4” gap yet body lines match near perfect. Take your time and tape the edges where you may risk chipping or scraping paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Body gaps were what they are from the factory. The sheet metal stamping process wasn't all that precise back then. If you want nice even narrow gaps like you see on the car shows out there you will be doing metal work. That's the problem with those fix it shows, they never show the tedious details to any real degree. After all, my wife thought I should be able to remodel a bathroom in a half hour, hour tops. I try to tell her they have a whole crew of guys off camera working for a week or more to get it done but I think she thinks I have a blue T shirt with a yellow S on it under my work shirt. ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccudahy Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 30 minutes ago, Sniper said: That's the problem with those fix it shows, they never show the tedious details to any real degree. After all, my wife thought I should be able to remodel a bathroom in a half hour, hour tops. I try to tell her they have a whole crew of guys off camera working for a week or more to get it done but I think she thinks I have a blue T shirt with a yellow S on it under my work shirt. At least your wife thinks that about you. Mine looks at me like I got a black permanent ink S on my forehead!? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Only when she wants something, if it's something I want I got the same mark you do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidevalvepete Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 4 hours ago, Rusty48 said: and a list of factory body gap info. Not sure if this existed. Lots of techniques to use here though. Tap into the knowledge of old time body guys here or in your local community. Lots of patience needed. Start with straight chassis, body mounted on new rubbers. Work back to front of car..... Best I can offer... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 Shop manuals usually tell you how to adjust body parts. It can literally include using a 2 X 4. Body gaps were never that good until well into the 80's or 90's. Usually they never came perfectly gapped from the factory. Get them as best you can with what little play there is and be good with it. On a personal note, I would recommend keeping the flathead. I've ridden in cars that are stock and the same kind of car that has been hot-rodded. Night and day and I much prefer the feel and history of a car as it came from the factory but that is me. As for A/C, it has been done with the flatheads. With all windows down, the quarter windows turned to blow on you, and the cowl vent wide open, it actually gives a nice cooling effect. We are spoiled now-a-days with A/C. The world ran just fine without it. Gotta admit I like it in my everyday driver though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allbizz49 Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 I've never seen a spec for gaps but 3/16" seems to be about right. I've gapped quite a few cars and sometimes, especially on these older cars, you will have to grind edges and/or weld them up. If you are using filler plus priming and blocking multiple times, gaps close up quick. Once you get your gaps where you like them, make sure to drill and pin the hinges. That way your panels will always go back to that spot. I usually paint everything in pieces with the panels off of the car so pinning them is a must for me. Patience is the key to gapping a car. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 A paint stirrer stick makes for a handy, non marring gaping tool, cheap too. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted January 11, 2021 Report Share Posted January 11, 2021 (edited) 6 hours ago, Rusty48 said: I am just starting a '48 P15 frame off restoration. I'm not a rookie but most certainly not an expert. I'm looking for a Standard part list and a list of factory body gap info. I'm sure I'll have countless other questions, as the project progresses. Thanks, in advance, for any and all info. This project was started by my brother-in-law, who is in the VA hospital, at this very moment. He received a heart transplant 2 months ago and contracted this ugly COVID-19 virus a week and a half ago. Things are touch and go so prayers would be greatly appreciated. The car is in better than fair condition right now. It needs some minor sheet metal replacement in the floor and I'm still undecided on keeping the original engine and trans or upgrading to a fresh 340 or even a late model 5.7 hemi. I'm in Texas so A/C is almost a must with the black paint job that has already been applied. Again, I've just taken over the project so I'm still getting organized. I'll add more later. Here is the info you need for adjusting body gaps: http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm As mentioned earlier, the Mopar engineers did an amazing job designing superb airflow through the cabins of their cars. The air movement is far better than modern vehicles which weren't designed to be driven with open windows. Hoping your brother-in-law will be able to enjoy this car with you in years to come. Edited January 11, 2021 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knuckleharley Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 11 hours ago, Sniper said: Only when she wants something, if it's something I want I got the same mark you do. Then you are in luck! My personal experience is they ALWAYS want something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
p15-1948 Posted January 12, 2021 Report Share Posted January 12, 2021 (edited) I too use a paint stick. You're limited as the car is already painted. On my P15 BC in some spots we had to add metal and some we had to use a grinder to get perfect, or more likely near perfect gaps. Can't do that once it's painted. The good thing, black cars generally hide little errors in gaps better than other colors. Look for black 46/48 Ford hoods for paint color aiding gap alignment. Edited January 12, 2021 by p15-1948 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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