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Waddya think- use #2 Permatex on new transmission gaskets?


'41 Fat Bottom Girl

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if the machined surfaces of the mating parts has not had their surfaces compromised by pry bars and other such bad handling, the gaskets alone are more than adequate for sealing.  However if you want added peace of mind, it will not harm to use a sealer where there will not be high heat.  Light film only applied with a wiping action of your finger should be more than enough.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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I'm in the process of reassembling the trans and engine for my TR6. Permatex #2 is my go-to, I apply a very thin coat to both sides of the gaskets.

 

Be sure you check the oil drain-back on the pinion cover when you assemble your gearbox to make sure it is correct:

 

transmission-1.jpg.24317848be69ca5097ba0cb10d0c5b89.jpg

 

 

transmission-5.jpg.17d351777f7c337bd2c04e3ad35ebd35.jpg

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You can try a product called "the Right Stuff" applied sparingly to mating surfaces as previously mentioned. This is in my opinion one of the finest sealers available. I have used it and to date have a very clean garage floor. I hope your teardown and rebuild goes ultra smooth!

 

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@Sam Buchanan Another perspective on the front cover differences is shown.

 

In the past I have sprayed my tranny gaskets with Permatex Copper to help seal them up. Seems to work fine. Not hurting anything anyway.

 

Trannies are fun!...Despite the mess.

 

IMG_6365.jpg

 

IMG_6195.jpg

 

Screen Shot 2021-01-08 at 9.26.44 AM.png

Edited by keithb7
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GREAT tips. Thanx for the reminder to watch the location of the drain-back channel on the pinion shaft housing. That would be a bummer!

Keithb7- Love the pic of the tranny apart on the floor- Ah, trips down memory lane...

Timely, too.

As I haven't had a Mopar standard taken apart all the way before:

It looks from your pic it can be taken apart and reassembled without removing the mainshaft from the tailshaft housing. Taking it apart from the front might solve a tricky problem I had in the past with old Chevy manual 3 and 4 speed trannys too. (Sometimes I used to break a secondary first gear back in the day. My old '39 Olds never had to come apart).

When assembling from the back end, when trying to drop the mainshaft into the pinion shaft, even if the needle bearings inside the pinion shaft were greased it wasn't uncommon to catch one and have it fall in sideways- and I wouldn't find out until I put the tailshaft housing on and it wouldn't assemble all the way- the cross-wise needle bearing!

Great stuff and thanx much.

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I am with Marcel on this.

"Right Stuff" is the best.

Permatex #2 or Aviation as it has been called is good for somethings but I rarely use it.

If you ever have to go back in there it is hell to clean up. You have to chisel it off.

Right Stuff seals very well and is easy to work with.

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Never used "Right Stuff", however I agree with you ,having encountered gasket sealers improperly applied to excess and in some cases even used to replace a proper gasket..It can be time consuming to properly clean up the mess.?

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1 hour ago, Loren said:

I am with Marcel on this.

"Right Stuff" is the best.

Permatex #2 or Aviation as it has been called is good for somethings but I rarely use it.

If you ever have to go back in there it is hell to clean up. You have to chisel it off.

Right Stuff seals very well and is easy to work with.

 

Permatex #2 is non-hardening. #1 is the crusty stuff.......

 

 

 

1300550?$456$

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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I generally do not use sealants in places the factory doesn't call for them in.  If I have a tricky gasket to install I have used the copper spray a gasket to hold it in place.  

 

Many years ago I had a 1964 Chrysler 300, I was a single man and free when I bought it.  Anyway, when I was rebuilding the engine I sprung for a bit of bling by installing a chrome water neck.  Some years later, now being a married man and suddenly poor, it started to leak.  Originally it was sealed by an oring.  I put a new oring in, still leaked.  Next day I out a gasket in, still leaked.  Next day I cut a new gasket out of the cardboard from a pad of paper.  Still leaked.  By now I am po's so I get a tube or copper RTV and glopped it on, wiped off the excess I could see.  Next day I am driving to work, have my daughter with me as I'm dropping her off at the baby sitter on the way.  I'm in the left lane on I15 close to Miramar when I see a big cloud behind me.  So I get over to the right shoulder and pop the hood.  Blew a core plug out and dumped the coolant.  I limp it to the baby sitter's subdivision and park it.  When I got back after work it was seized up.  Lost a really nice 413 that day.   Post mortem showed that one of the pistons had melted down, about a quarter of it was in the pan as slag and that glopped on RTV, while sealing the leaky water outlet and prevent the thermostat fro opening and as the heat and pressure built up the core plug popped. 

 

So I am real cautious about using RTV or any other heavy sealer and when I do I use as little as possible.  Spray a gasket is thin. 

 

 

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RTV  probably has destroyed thousands of engines over the years from improper usage.

But...now days that's how many engines, transmissions and rear axles are sealed up from the factory.

If you use it do it right and sparingly.

Ya don't want the oil pick up half plugged up.?

Sealers can also cause gaskets of some types to "squirt" out of position and fail.

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Permatex 81182 is a sealer specifically designed for use in the presence of gear oil.  I would recommend using this sealer for that application if you insist on using a sealant.   The other recommended sealers will work as stated above if you don't have or can't find the 81182.

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I can't tell you how many valve cover gaskets I've replace because the blue silicone let them ooze out of position.

However, I've used blue silicone to great effect in applications where you needed a part to slip into place.

At the flywheel end of one of the engines I used to work on there was a "Gable Plate" which held the flywheel seal, made a mounting point for the starter and provided a path for the oil from the head to pass back to the pan. If you had to remove that plate you needed Blue Silicone on the pan gasket and the head gasket (both of which remained in place usually) so the plate would slip in between. Otherwise you had to pull the head and the pan...not fun! In that case it worked wonderfully.

Right Stuff is great for flathead pan gaskets on the ends. It fills gaps and doesn't slip.

Brushable "High Tack" would also be good for transmission gaskets but it doesn't clean up well.

Spray "High Tack" was the choice of the FIAT mechanics for head gaskets. You sprayed the gasket let it dry, then installed it. They swore that was the only way to keep head gaskets in those things (back in the 1980s).

Best to put the sealant on the gasket rather than slop it on the parts. That way you only use enough, not too much.

Have you noticed all the sealants we've talked about are made by Permatex/Loctite?

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Hylomar....re-useable, expensive, for close fit applications like machined case halves etc.

I've sealed leaks on valve covers no one else could.

Goes on super thin...great sealant.

Ultra grey like Honda bond another wonderful gasket "maker"...on and on just like which oil should I use...

But dry gaskets don't leak either in the right applications.

You pick....better not leak!

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21 hours ago, keithb7 said:

@Sam Buchanan Another perspective on the front cover differences is shown.

 

In the past I have sprayed my tranny gaskets with Permatex Copper to help seal them up. Seems to work fine. Not hurting anything anyway.

 

Trannies are fun!...Despite the mess.

 

IMG_6365.jpg

 

IMG_6195.jpg

 

Screen Shot 2021-01-08 at 9.26.44 AM.png

I use spray copper on mine, it worked fine.

James

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