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Door Latch Remote Lock


tonybiel

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Happy New Year!

 

On my 1951 B3C, was the passenger side door designed to also be locked with the inside door handle or only from the outside with the key lock?

 

I am refurbishing the door latch remotes.  I found new springs for them, have refitted the handle shafts and I am repairing the spring cams.  The driver's side obviously has a door lock position, while the passenger side did not have a lock position or the lock cam is worn down.  i want to repair it to factory design.   I can see pros/cons for the passenger side being designed either way. Thanks!

 

 

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On FEF, you CAN'T close the doors with it locked (handle up) as it keeps the latch from retracting.  I see no way to lock oneself out of the truck as you need the key to lock the passenger door from the outside.  You CAN lock the doors from the inside, but once you open them to get out they unlock.  As a kid I was told I locked the keys in the truck and they had to break a window to get in, but I've proven that false.

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That's correct as long as he doesn't fix it to work like modern locks that can be activated from the inside after exiting and then closing the door.  I've had all the experience I want at retrieving keys locked inside our vehicles.

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Thanks for the extra input as locking someone out was my biggest concern.  My doors have not been on the truck for years and they are gutted, so I couldn't immediately verify if the door would close in the locked position.

 

 

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23 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

On FEF, you CAN'T close the doors with it locked (handle up) as it keeps the latch from retracting.  I see no way to lock oneself out of the truck as you need the key to lock the passenger door from the outside.  You CAN lock the doors from the inside, but once you open them to get out they unlock.  As a kid I was told I locked the keys in the truck and they had to break a window to get in, but I've proven that false.

So as i have been working on my truck, repeated opening/ closing of passenger door, prior to servicing latch assembly it would lock as i closed it. After taking it apart and cleaning,lubing there was a coil spring out of place, likey from someone poking around in there trying to get door open. The outside square shaft was broken. I repaired it using key stock. 
 

it locked on me probably 5-6 times. 

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there SHOULD be a tab of sorts that when you lift the handle to lock it, keeps the latch from recessing.  Might be it's worn away?  I'll go check my inventory to see if I can take pictures later today.

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ok, I looked but I don't have a passenger latch to show pics of so I did a quick video of the operation.....and 12 seconds is too big to upload...sigh....I'll try for a shorter one tomorrow.

 

Long and short of it is this:

 

1. lift interior handle to lock the door

2. push the latch keeper in on the door

3. this unlocks the door (handle drops to the unlocked position)

 

Ergo: I can't lock my keys in the truck. 

 

I was mistaken on the function on the how of not locking keys in at least on the passenger side (not allowing the door to close vs. auto unlock).  I'll poke at the driver side tomorrow to see if it acts the same.  

 

 

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Confirmed just now that the drivers side acts jut like the passenger side.  I downgraded video quality and length results seen below.

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Yup... my doors work the same way. I tried to cheat and lock the drivers door, then close it to walk around and lock the passenger door with the key. But as soon as I close the door the door unlocks. I now use 2 methods to lock the doors. If my wife is with me I get out first and let her reach over to lock the drivers door. Then I walk around and lock the other door with my key after she's out. When alone I have to get out, walk around to the passenger side, climb across to lock the drivers door, then close and lock the passenger door with the key. 

 

The only other "cheater" way is to leave the vent window open, close the door, reach through the open window to lift the handle, then push the window closed. Of course this isn't as secure as the window can be pushed open again, as it isn't latched, to reach in and unlock the door. 

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Great details guys!

 

There is a cam on the shaft of the door remote and a spring that falls into a notch on the cam.  This is what keeps the door handle from flopping around when in its "normal" position.  A second notch in the cam is what holds the inside door handle in the locked position.   My passenger side  did not have a 2nd notch on the cam for the lock position.  Either there was never a locking notch or it was just worn down.  I could not tell for certain.  The cam had plenty of material which allowed me to file a locking notch into it.  I also dressed the first notch with a file for a more distinct spring fit.

 

My passenger remote was missing the spring, which I found on ebay. The shaft "bushings" were also a little loose. While I had the remote disassembled, I was able to nicely tighten the shaft bushings by laying them on an anvil and hammering the taper of the bushing.  A well-selected socket worked great as a punch as it happened to have the perfect inner chamfer.

 

Not quite ready to reassemble my doors yet, but it appears the latches will be tight as new.

 

Door Latch Remote Rev1.jpg

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As I understand it.....back in the day, city streets were a bit more narrow. So you would park, lock your driver door, slide across to the passenger door to exit.

Then you would lock the passenger door outside. Hence, only a passenger side outside door lock. 

 

I have a "driver side" factory lock I received from our buddy in Australia (Davin) I'll use to use on my U.S. truck. 

 

48D   

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